KiwiRS4T

If you are interested you can look on the innovatemotorsports.com website to find the manual for the LM2 meter. There is a section on OBDII which leads me to believe that all I need is a physical connection between the consult port and the OBDII plug that comes with the LM2 and the software will enable me to select up to 16 channels (I believe the consult has only 14) and manipulate the data. Of course no-one is going to buy a $700 LM2 for this purpose but it seems to me that when this little adaptor arrives (a double sided plug as you describe it) I will be able to access my ecu through the LM2 and/or a laptop connected to it as an additional feature of my LM2 (which I bought for tuning AFRs).

Get a Stagea - AWD - biggest transmission cooler less than $99 from Supercheap.

You say you have a standard RB25DET ECU but in fact there are many. In my Stagea (1997 RB25DET - what is known in skyline circles as a series 2 engine) the fuel pump relay is triggered by pin 13. See:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=31087

Best and cheapest - the Jaycar EIBC ...if you can't be bothered assembling it yourself i believe they are available ready made. (Have a read of the Jaycar thread in the Stagea section). Gives you absolute control of when boost comes on (within the limit of what your turbo is capable of). It is not a bleed valve -signal comes from injectors and response is controlled by EIBC.

Most people would have a ten year old one. I would be inclined to get a new one (less than NZ$300 fitted) as that should be good for another 10 years.

Do you have an form of electronic boost controller? If you have one , such as the Jaycar IEBC you could take a feed from the solenoid so that the fan only comes on when you are on boost. Or alternatively you could peobably get a cheap pressure switch). When I got my dyno run I asked the operator to direct some of the cooling fan towards the SMIC but they didn't do that. Not a real problem as it was just a 30 second power measurement but if I was getting tuning done on the dyno I would try to make sure the operator understood what was being asked and get some cooling air through the SMIC.

My Innovate LM2 has a wee screen and datalogging capability to a memory stick as well as an interface for a laptop. It comes with an OBDII plug and I have just located a "consult" to OBDII adaptor plug on ebay so hopefully it will give me the capabilities as above.

Impressive! Is this with a RB25DET or a RB30 block with RB25 head?

If you have the hoses the right way round (on my car the pipe from the intercooler giving boost goes to the top pipe of the solenoid and the bottom pipe is the outlet) then if the IEBC is set to zero then no pressure should be getting through the solenoid and thus nothing going to the actuator or to the vent so blocking the vent will make no difference. It sounds as though the wiring is the problem and if you do as you say above that will hopefully fix it. At zero setting you should get full boost and then you can gradually turn up the numbers to bring the boost on more gradually and to limit the max boost and then turn the numbers down again when the turbo runs out of puff. Then you can adjust the size of the vent (make it bigger) to bring the boost on earlier although if that makes the IEBC work too hard at max boost (more then 80% duty cycle) then you could reduce the size of the vent a little. BTW I'm not sure you have the original piping correct but anyway here is a photo of how it should be now (see post #41) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja....html&st=40

You need to cut the wire from the ecu and tape it up - the ecu no longer connects to the solenoid- and connect the other end that goes to the solenoid to the black wire from the IEBC. The colour code you mention for the solenoid wires sounds right but I can't confirm as i have a Stagea. With the solenoid closed or not working at all you should be getting full boost -whatever your turbo can make (1bar+ ) as the actuator should not be working at all. Have you started off with your IEBC set to zero?

No any injector will do (tap in only)Have you tested the solenoid to make sure it is normally closed? Cut the solenoid wire from the ecu and replaced the signal to solenoid with the one from EIBC? Routed the pipes correctly? From boost pipe to solenoid , solenoid to T ...one to actuator other side back to inlet (this one has the restrictor - make hole diameter bigger for more boost.)NB note correction...I wrongly put "make hole smaller" before I deleted that post. I had a quick look on Google and there are a number of s15 ecu pinout charts both agree that 101 in no 1 injector - some say W/G and some W/B so you will probably be OK. Solenoid is 115 o/b

Good to hear. I managed to find a Trust SMIC which is a little larger then the R34GTT one and I have no problems at 10.5 psi and 155 AWKW but I am saving up for a new turbo and aiming for at least 200AWKW at about 1 bar and hoping to keep the SMIC. I don't know how good remapped ecu's are at adapting to different configurations - some need to be rechipped although allegedly some are tunable but i haven't been able to pin that down. I have an Apexi SITC to adjust the timing across the range.

Yep I'm using a Pipercross PP1128-MX in my Stagea (same airbox as R33)

I don't believe in throwing good money after bad but I would like to encourage you to perservere with your RS260... but only on the basis of a proper financial analysis . If you stop now and wreck the car for parts I suspect you will not recoup a whole lot. If you can get someone (maybe another member nearer your car can recommend a panelbeater or insurance assessor) to have a look at your car to estimate how many $$$ it will cost to complete and if (as should be the case) you can get a time extension for compliance because of extenuating circumstances then maybe you will be better to finish repairing the car ... and then you can decide whether to keep or sell it. Without knowing all the facts it looks as though you have a good case for getting compensation from the panelbeater who sat on the car for so long whether or not you end up completing it. I understand that you will be more than fed up but a little more effort may pay off! My sympathies anyway and good luck. ...Bob

Here are some springs (may not be economical to post) http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-176473291.htm and some coil-overs at a price that might be worth shipping: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-176859025.htm

Still waiting for my Stagea S1 c/w scoop which you said you had in stock. Haven't even had a price yet. Are you willing and able to supply or not?

In NZ there is a warrant of fitness check every six months which will pick up any worn ball joints etc. I understand that this varies from State to State in Aus so if your car is not subject to a WOF check then you should jack it up to take the weight off the suspension and use a bar or something to test for excessive play, have a look for any bent arms and any bolts for security. If your tyres are wearing evenly (not feathering on the inside or outside) and the car steers and pulls up straight then there is no reason to spend on a professional check (unless you have whacked a kerb or a traffic island at speed). You can wait until you start modifying your suspension to get a wheel alignment.

What do you mean by self mapping? Can you adjust the timing and afr? Did you get a print out of your air/fuel ratios? Your power figure looks pretty similar to mine (with a full exhaust and a bigger SMIC) but your FMIC should give you scope for more boost (high flow your own turbo or upgrade to a better one).

Didn't notice it was a neo engine ...that should give about 130AWKW Haven't seen the air/fuel ratios ...could still be a fuel problem.

I would just be taking it back to the people who fitted the shift kit and tell them to fix it at their expense unless they can point the finger at the people who did your service. I wouldn't be spending $2000 on the gearbox though - I could get a replacement for $400 and I think there are some in Aus among the guys wrecking cars in the Stagea parts for sale. Yes i sometimes find this site loads very slowly. They tried to shift it to another host which was worse and I think they were going to build a cluster of servers (if that's the expression) so that they could host it themselves - don't know how far they've got with that.

It would be simpler if they had just put in a 4 speed auto. When I bought my car the only manuals were the RS260 at about 4 times the price of a RS4T but now there are quite a few "S" (manuals) for sale at about twice the price of an RS and if I were buying today I would definitely buy a manual.

The overdrive button is a throwback to the eighties when jap autos used to have three speed + overdrive instead of a proper 4 or 5 speed auto. I would be interested in the basis for people's assertion that they use less fuel by driving around in third gear. The whole point of higher gearing is to save engine wear and fuel. It is true that some underpowered and overgeared cars may use more fuel because you have to have the foot flat all the time to make progress but I don't find that with my Stagea. Normally the most economical driving style is to accelerate briskly to your desired cruising speed and then maintain that with the minimum throttle opening at which point your Air/fuel ratios should be at their most economical (around 14 to1). Having said that it is possible that under unusual circumstances, such as the continuous uphill referred to above, third gear might be more economical but I would try a week in third and a week in 4th accurately measuring the fuel consumption each week to get a true comparison.

I'm not the best person to give advice but I know that the RB25DET does not have peak hold injectors. 64 seems to be the default reading. Have you tried making adjustments with the buttons or pushing the reset button? I'm pretty sure the trimpot on the IEBC needs to be full on . (Actually have reread the instructions and the trimpot is needed for fine tuning.

Sorry I am by no means an electronic expert. I built the controller myself but needed help for the other two. I know that the resistors can go either way and the trimpot in the IEBC is needed for fine tuning.

Have a look under the car at the nuts/bolts holding the front drive shaft and see if they look undisturbed. At least one other member has had his transmission fried on the dyno by "mechanics" who just pulled the fuses. If you do get under the car have a look around the tramsmission for any wires hanging loose - if you are lucky they have accidentally knocked off a speed sensor wire or something. The trouble is that apparently on earlier skylines you could do that no problem but you cant do it on a Stagea. You must remove the front shaft and preferably don't do it at all - find a shop with a 4 wheel dyno. As someone could be up for many$$$ it would be good to establish liability asap. Have a read of this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/4w...no-t210078.html