KiwiRS4T

Got a track day coming up tomorrow so i thought I'd fit the last item in my suspension package the KCA349 sub frame lock kit (pineapples). I have read the instructions, read the threads, looked at Emmanuelt's photos (SK's don't appear to be there any more) but can't get the bolt in. I have pushed the bush back in and then (in front) the big yellow ring and then the steel washer but then the bolt wont reach the thread inside. Am i missing something or do I just have to go and get a longer bolt? The yellow ring is 18mm thick and I seem to be short about the thickness of the steel washer which I am sure i should retain. Everyone who has done it says it is easy (well it would be if i could get the bolt back in). Can anyone point me the right way to do this?

My street tyres are on 16in V35 Skyline rims and I have a set of semislicks on R32GTR rims which are 16 x 8 and have an offset of +30 which seems to be a pretty good ofset for an 8in rim - tyres are in line with body and there is plenty of clearance inside. I just missed out on a set of 18 x 8in 350Z wheels which look good on a Stagea ( I tried them on but missed out on the auction).

I found a grey plastic block with about 10 wires going into it so (naturally) took it apart to see if it was a left over from some sort of piggy back device but noticed that all the wires were joined inside - turns out its some kind of common earth.

Stageas come in 15in and probably more commonly 16in. I have a set of V35 Skyline wheels on my Stagea and also use a set of R32 GTR wheels so the offsets must be OK, the only issue is clearing your brakes but someone above has seen the Stagea wheels on a skyline so it looks as though you would be OK

Sorry - I didn't realise the GTR was different. have you tried a PM to Terry GT34 who replied to your first post - it seems he has possibly got the answer in his HKS manual?

A second hand one should be cheap enough but welding and machining flat should be cheaper than a new one.

The synchro button locks in 50/50 front rear drive - good for pulling your boat (one's boat as it were, I don't actually have a boat) out of the water or getting off the beach but when you get up speed (I'm not sure exactly where) the Attessa computer takes over and it goes back to 95% rear drive until it senses you're losing traction when it tranfers more drive to the front. The snow button locks out first gear so its handy on the dyno where you can put the snow button on and select second gear so that the box won't kick down during a power run. The power button (on the same rocker as the snow button at least on my car) makes the gearbox hang on longer before changing up but you can get the same effect by keeping your foot flat to the floor. You can get an owners handbook for around $50 from the same place as you sign up for the manual. It tells you what controls do but it doesn't have any technical specifications.

The Stagea ECU doesn't do boost cut but it does have a protection feature known as R(ich) and R(etard) which involves increasing the fuel supply and retarding the timing (which may feel like a boost cut). This can be triggered by winding up the boost but should be avoided by the Nistune if it is properly set up. i should think you will still need a seperate boost controller; i don't think Nistune will do that for you. The Nistune looks like a bargain... just the speed cut controller, the SAFC and the SITC together cost twice the Nistune price. Pity its not available for the Series I Stagea.

1. Always listen to your mother. 2. I have some Bridgestone RE001 on my AWD Stagea only 215 wide but they are excellent in the dry and the wet. Went on a track day and the tyres packed up after a few laps but i am keeping them on for daily driving and got a set of 8in rims with some semi slicks for the track (useless on a wet road). So...horses for courses and SLOW DOWN in the wet.

I have just installed a Greddy Speed Limiter Cut Controller on my Stagea which seems to have the R34 pinout and it went: power supply: pin 31 or 67 earth: pin 25 or 32 speed sensor pin 29 (cut this wire) there's a pinout diagram here if you haven't got one: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Pi...cu-t112683.html I don't know what the HKS one looks like but the tricky part with the GReddy one was getting the little toggle switches set right for the car.

SHIZNT do you still have the original front pipe? Does RE Customs have a lot of RB experience? The cheapest mod is to by-pass your solenoid (free) although if you have a boost controller you can acheive the same result. The next cheapest is to replace your panel filter with a high flow one (around $100) The next item should be your exhaust with a decent front pipe (and gut the cat although I'm in NZ and that's legal here). At this point you should check your fuel delivery and replace the pump and pressure regulator if necessary ( not just for power but for safety). With just these mods i got 155AWKW (still on a sidemount albeit a Trust one). Ihave now fitted my Jaycar boost controller and a second hand SAFC and SITC and with a good tune should see at least 175AWKW ( but I won't do the tune til my GCG highflow is fitted next week). You won't need injectors til you're over 220AWKW. What I'm saying is what's holding you back is your front pipe. A cheap SAFC and SITC will enable you to get maybe 200AWKW with the R34 turbo and you can sell them again when you get a computer.

There are two for sale in NZ at the moment ...probably too expensive to import but you can look at the photos...http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-189924952.htm and http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-188931521.htm

When I got my car it had this massive earthing system - heavy duty bracket on the earth post of the battery with huge leads going to about five points on the engine and chassis. I thought it was overkill but maybe it was installed at the same time as the amp under the passenger's seat.

Yep as people have said no need to bleed as not a closed system (so no need to loosen your oil feed pipe once its on). A few extracts from the instructions that came with my GCG turbo today: "Fill the oil inlet hole of the turbocharger with new engine oil and spin the compressor wheel by hand a few times - it should spin freely. Note: it is normal to feel some up and down movement on the wheels." "Fit the oil drain line. Refill the oil inlet hole with new clean engine oil and reconnect the oil feed line." "If possible, prevent the engine from firing and crank the engine for 10 - 15 seconds to prime oil feed. Start the engine and idle for three to four minutes before increasing speed. Check for oil and gas leaks." " High crankcase pressure can stop oil from draining - causes leaks from turbo... Inspect and replace if necessary the engine PCV valve as this may be blocked causing crankcase pressure."

Great car mate. Are you anywhere near a drag strip? Would love to know what times you can acheive. BTW for a serious fuel supply solution have a look here: http://ripsltd.com/products.html

Yes they do - I have one: PP1128-MX

Yep I got rid of my pod and fitted the original airbox and snorkel with a pipercross (PP1128-MX)filter. I am hoping to get an air deflector next month and I am also planning to cut a hole in the top of the airbox and run a pipe from behind the left hand headlight for an extra cold air supply. Will post up pics when done.

This thread reads like an advertisement for Hub dynos! I used to work next door to a 2 wheel dyno and every car was anchored at the rear by a massive chain fixed to a staple in the concrete floor. The four wheel dyno i was on recently uses straps each side to keep the car central on the rollers - i would have thought any down force was very minor.

Have you thought of by passing the solenoid instead of earthing it? You could probably make a few more kw with 10 - 10.5 psi plus you might want the solenoid later for an electronic boost controller.

Drive train loss for the WGNC34 AWD auto was estimated by SK at 70KW. This is a number, not a percentage - it will be AWKW + 70 = approx flywheel kw.

Couldn't really read your chart off the video (or see the cooling fan - did your dyno guy have one?) apart from the max kw figure. How much boost are you running? My S1 makes 155AWKW at 10.5 psi with the SMIC and stock airbox (with highflow filter) - the only mod is the full exhaust - and would probably make a little more with a good tune now that i have fitted the IEBC, SAFC and SITC but I won't bother until my highflow arrives (next week). I would have thought an S2 would be up around 170AWKW on the stock turbo.p.s. I see there is an AWD dyno at the Melbourne Performance Centre Bayswater ...or is that where you were?

Well that's right... no airbox lid will be similar to the pod in that your incoming air will be subject to the hot underbonnet temperatures. That's why you are better to leave the lid on and use the standard snorkel and/or a cold air supply system.

What's your AWKW now? Can you post up your chart? Still standard turbo?

I got rid of my pod and put a Pipercross PP1128-MX in the airbox (cheaper than other brands) and put the snorkel back on. I am going to cut a hole in the front of the top half of the box and run a pipe from behind the LH headlight to add to the cold air supply.