KiwiRS4T

***R34 turbo $400, nistune $450, O2 + plugs say $200 total $1050 or new turbo $2500, better FMIC 800, nistune 450, new dump O2 and plugs say 500 = $4250

Probably not used because it doesn't look "cool". Can't really see any downside so long as you can secure it properly (although the 2 bar and 50deg don't really provide a huge safety margin - things can get pretty hot under the bonnet).

Very frustrating to read these threads and not get the ending. Did the Tomei man get his engine to run properly, make decent power?I take it you would be recommending Poncams as a simpler job with good power for the street?

Well my guess is nothing else. In fact -standard turbo you might not even need injectors - give it a try and see how far your standard injectors are pushed.

Was working perfectly holding 10lb with the stock turbo and 16 with my GCG turbo. Small hiccup, wrote the car off just looking for another RS4T!

There's a why and how to in the DIY section above

Yep, managed to get it off in one piece...it's just held on by a few clips and then double sided tape or glue. Its very long 1800mm - I'll get a price from the post office tomorrow. I reckon about $100 incl postage but I'll confirm tomorrow - how does that sound?ps anyone want the driver's side?

Very neat! Have you got it working? Tip if you haven't - set the input to 0 and stand outside the car by the solenoid while you turn up the output and hear when the solenoid starts cycling - it probably won't do anything until about output level 6

I think Nisan RBs had variable valve timing from the series 2 RB25DET onwards. The neo engine has a more sophisticated version than the RB25series 2 and it wasn't called vvti nissan had names like VCT and VVL (can't remember off the top of my head).

If the problem was caused by the car sitting around then maybe their fix has worked. Ask them to return the timing to factory 15deg and if the problem has gone away then it should be all good.

My 1997 series 1 RS4T has frontal damage but most parts available. I guess only bits that can be posted will be of interest to Australian members (car is in Auckland NZ) but if someone is really keen I can get a price for freighting the auto trans (price AU$350 for the box).

I saw 3.3 in another SAU post. I don't know how reliable that information is but if true would help account for the better fuel consumption of the M35.

Google "Attessa" to learn about the AWD. It is a computer controlled system. Normally the rear wheels only are driven but when the computer senses that they are losing traction it will transfer as much as necessary drive to the front wheels up to a maximum of 50/50. Don't know about your car but mine has power locking on all doors. This model (series I ) came out with a remote locking key which operates all doors and the tailgate. Hard to imagine yours didn't have all door locking from new. Find your way around this website - there is a wealth of information for the discerning Stagea owner!

Dunno but my series I has lots of wires from the ecu connected to a little grey factory box going nowhere and seems to be just a common earth. Maybe yours has a common positive.

Confusingly RB33 engines come in series 1 (with seperate igniters) and series 2 (without). I think all Stageas have either Series 2 engines (for Series I Stageas) or neo (for Series II Stageas) although tofurther complicate it late n/a series I Stageas have the (non turbo) neo engines.

There is no short answer. Start reading this thread from the beginning - you will only have to read a few pages to get the picture.

Or cheapskate option wire a switch into the speed sensor (ecu pin 53 on some) and keep your speedo exceopt when you are attempting the land speed record on the track.

I doubt that the springs are the problem unless they are not in fact standard springs (you should be able to get standard springs cheap or free from someone upgrading). Bilstein shocks are the way to go and you should be able to get them valved to get the ride quality that you want by a knowledgable technician (not peddars).

SK will make you any bar you want. Selby bars from his company Superior Suspension, Sydney. And yes you won't get a comfortable ride from 35 or 40 profile tyres.

Standard springs are plenty soft enough - are your shocks adjustable? If not do a deal for some standard shocks and then get some sway bars to stop the wallowing in the corners - they will not detract from your ride comfort.

Depends what you mean by "it" I have the handbook in the English language but there is as yet no Stagea Workshop Manual in English.

Lightened harmonic balancers can lead to crankshaft failure. I see these are claimed to be properly engineered. Do they have a track record? i.e. have lots been sold without problems? Any endorsements from good engine builders or top racing teams?...not wishing to cast any negative aspersions - just asking the question.

Yep I got my settings from SK's posts - although he knows a hell of a lot about RB engines he's actually a suspension specialist and in real life these settings have worked for me on my S1 Stagea.

I take it you have forged internals...if 18psi is low boost what's high boost?