KiwiRS4T

My normal driving style is not hard on the brakes - I tend to lift off early and try to go round corners at speed - so I saved myself a few hundred dollars by getting slotted but not heat treated rotors and if you drive like me they will be fine. But I got hooked into track days and they are not fine for that and I will have to change them for heat treated ones and may upgrade the size while I'm at it - so if you are the sort of person who goes flat out into every corner on the road and slams on the anchors hard each time or you plan to do some track days then heat treated are a must.

That's in NZ. Freight could be prohibitive but if you really need one i could make some enquiries. Hopefully it will be a small repair or adjustment and you won't need one. Skyline one should fit too but don't know how you are fixed in your neck of the woods.

America has a similar requirement for OBD and there is a standard, OBD II, which I am sure all current Japanese cars will meet. Nissan had their own version of OBD called "consult" but this is not compatible with OBD reading equipment. I don't know when Nissan changed over to an OBD compliant system - maybe a current M35 owner (my car is older) can tell you.

Read all 7 pages! Didn't really learn anything new - stock about 130 some say 140awkw, exhaust gives another 20 or 30 and intercooler does nothing.. I have to say I am sceptical about the ECU remapping. Those that have played with them via consult say that none of the settings stick so until Nistune turn to the V6 (could be a while given their smaller numbers compared to say the R33 which will hopefully be next) its piggybacks or the full computer (Link say they can accommodate autos now although I haven't yet heard from anyone who's done it).Yes sleeper393 intercooler will give marginal improvement , although some report more lag with the stock turbo (further for the air to travel) but by all means get one if you're planning on a better turbo later - you'll get the benefits then.

exhaust could be worth 20 -30KW - a must in any case. The intercooler won't do anything until you get a bigger turbo. Free flow panel filter will give you a few KW.

Personally i don't drive with my hand over the air intake so no problem. Also if you stick your hand out the window at anything over about 60 k you will find a fairly good airstream which Nissan has designed a snorkel to divert to your airbox. Just the same I am getting a second feed of cold air from behind the LH headlight into the top of the airbox and an air deflector (if it ever arrives from Aus) will help as well. [slightly off topic] Didn't finish my extra cold air supply today because I managed to get a cheap timing light and so installed my adjustable exhaust cam gear instead - easy job if you're not doing the cambelt as well. Set it at 4deg retarded and now just have to save up for a top class tune.

Take it to an auto trans service place. They should diagnose and quote for free. In my area I can get another box for $400 so I wouldn't be spending $1500 on a rebuild.

Never heard of them. Got this from Google so I guess you may already have seen it: K's ROM is a very reputable ROM-tuner here in Japan. Their ECUs are most often used for drifting since they tend to tune for instant throttle response, and massive torque. I have a friend that had an R32 GTS-t (RB20DET, 5sp) with a K's ROM ECU on it and that thing was amazing to drive (some people thought it had a 2.2 stroker kit on it), just brutally quick (my 94 GF8 will smoke most R32 GTS-ts but not his). I would imagine that a switch on the ECU would be a street gas (100+ octane is common here in Japan) or race gas switch. -E

Well Ive got good news and bad news. The good news: since I'm on holiday i spent the best part of a day (some hours spent planning, drink in hand) neatly enlarging the intake to my SMIC cutting away the inside plastic on the front bar but so that it still looks much the same as the other one from a distance. Since I got a bigger Trust SMIC the old shroud was no good so I have now made up ducting whuch ensures that 99% of the air that comes through the bumper duct goes through the SMIC. Took it for a thrash and the outlet intercooler pipe was really cool to the touch. I am hopefull this will translate into more KW and better track performance and enable me to stick with the SMIC. Then I cut a hole in the end of the standard airbox lid because I am going to duct air from behind the LH headlamp into the box (to supplement the snorkel). The bad news. The next day I picked up the airbox lid and noticed that because I did it on the bench, upside down, I had made a neat hole in the wrong end of the lid!! Luckily i hadn't thrown away the piece I cut out so I have resealed and am now starting again on the other end!

There were two loops at the back of my series I and both seemed to work the same.

Yes you're correct but i don't know why the importer told you to use regular - Nissan specify premium. Maybe you could get a drum of toluene and add a bit per tankful. here is a (US sourced) article on the benefits of toluene, what proportions to use and some case histories of improved performance - especially with turbos: http://www.elektro.com/~audi/audi/toluene.html p.s. if you do try it you may be able to help the ecu to adapt after the new fuel has fed through the system by disconnecting the battery, pumping the brakes (allegedly to get rid of residual power although I don't know why the interior light wouldn't do that) and then reconnecting and roaring off into the distance. This resetting is not something I have done myself although there are many references to it throughout this forum.

Thanks for that. Were there any other clues such as sloppiness at the steering wheel or strange noises?

If you don't want to get a computer consider getting an Apexi SAFC (an old cheap version will do) and an Apexi SITC both usually available on US ebay. Otherwise you can't really tune your car at all.

Pressure test to look for leaks ...hidden frost plug?... water dripping inside the car from heater core? Faulty radiator cap? Brakes binding? timing out? Fuel supply problem - running lean? Then compression test to look for head gasket/cracked head? ...water in the oil? or vice versa?...so many possibilities!

Well I presume you want a new one so if you go to your local radiator shop they should be able to quote you for a replacement or a thicker one to slot straight in. If they haven't heard of Stageas their supplier should have all the information at the end of the phone. Mine cost $300 fitted.

Stageas are heavy gas guzzlers. Your figures are very good.

Agree with Ryan Forget the pod get a Pipercross PP128-MX or equivalent for your standard air box. You need a bigger exhaust all the way from the turbo back. HKS catback looks expensive. If you have a series II you can get the Nistune tunable chip for your ECU (cheaper than a PFC and adequate for what you want and invisible. If you change your mind and want 300RWKW you can sell the Nistune and buy the Link 4 (Vipec).

Nice car. Did it come with the roof rails already removed? Bog standard they are not really quick but with the poncams and a PFC I reckon you should see around 240AWKW at least.

My trip to work is quite short. At other times I am usually adjusting something like now when I am fine tuning my boost controller (foot flat much of the time) to suit my new turbo so I am getting about 20L per 100km or just over 300k per tank. The best I have ever had is about 13L per 100k ( about 420km per tank). I am stopping spending money on my engine when I install my adjustable exhaust cam gear and then I am going to the top tuner in town and hope to get 200 - 220 AWKW with absolutely smooth acceleration and better fuel consumption when touring. I am using E10 fuel and i have always figured that the highest octane fuel doesn't cost more because it is more efficient. the standard ecu will adjust for different octanes but it always runs too rich at the top end. For those with computers or other fuel control devices these are usually set to a particular fuel so it doesn't pay to chop and change.

My car is pretty similar to Tangles' except that I have Tein Springs and a rear strut brace and he has an engine stabiliser. Under the car I have the KCA349 kit but there is lots more I could do but after the new turbo I am really broke. You could probably fit the whole RS260/GTR subframe. There is a kit for sale here at $2,400 which I won't be buying anytime soon:http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-194850665.htm or this: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-194850682.htm. You have to draw the line somewhere! If I were starting from scratch I would save up and get an RS260 to start with but you could still spend another $10K to $20K (some have) making it go faster. One mistake I made was buying a set of Bridgestone semi slicks (would cost you about $1600 - $2000) but a better idea would be to buy second hand slicks which are available (here anyway) quite cheaply.

It's not that bad being mistaken for a Volvo. Some of the older members may remember (it wasn't that many years ago) that Volvo ran a wagon (I don't know why) in the British Touring Car championship and they did qute well.

Over the Christmas holidays I finally fitted the last two items in my Series I RS4 T suspension upgrade which consisted of: Bilstein shocks and Tein springs all round, heavier front and rear sway bars, camber and caster kits, and for the track only a set of R32 GTR forged wheels with Bridgestone semi slicks. On the road I have been using V35 Skyline wheels with Bridgestone RE001 tyres. I am currently looking for a set of 18x8in to replace them. The last two items were a rear strut brace (courtesy of another member) which together with the other mods have transformed the handling of the Stagea, and the real subject of this post the subframe lock kit or diff "pineapples". These change the attitude of the diff to maximum anti-squat (for the Attessa equipped anyway) and also virtually eliminate the play afforded by the stock bushes. It made a big difference in getting the power down on the track and would probably help on the dragstrip (although I haven't got there yet). If these activities are a priority for you then "pineapples" are a must. But if you need a comfortable family cruiser or you do a lot of long distance driving the buttoned down diff can be tiresome. The instructions warn of "increased NVH" (noise, vibration and harshness) and you will hear a new rumble from the diff and get really early warning of any wheel bearing problems as well as hearing every change in the road surface. The instructions say they are really easy to fit and you could put them in for track days and then take them out for the rest of the time but I can't see many people doing that. So my conclusion is that they are of little use for everyday road use and have a signifcant down side so i would give them a miss unless the strip and track are the priority for you in which case they are a must have. p.s the rear strut brace is rarely in the way and can be removed in literally 2 minutes if necessary.

Did you get my reply to your PM?

Get Nistune to make your ecu tunable - totally invisible and cost effective and will do what you need.

Contrary to suggestions that my new GCG highflow would be laggy on my RB25DET Stagea it actually boosted up really quickly low down producing surge. I have overcome it with my Jaycar IEBC which means that I can reduce boost at low injector cycles (engine load) to about 12psi and push it up again at high speeds (from about 3500 on) to 16psi. I am going to get an adjustable exhaust cam gear which should enable me to raise the boost lower down a bit without surging.I think that the advantage of this over anti-surge slots is that the loss of boost induced by them would be felt further up the rev range (although it would probably be overcome at higher loads).