KiwiRS4T

Don't forget air resistance increases to the square of your speed increase so it takes a hell of a lot of horse power to do 250Km/hr and I doubt that any unmodified Stagea would do more than 220 if that. When my S1 was up to around 200AWKW (270engine KW) I got to 200km/hr and figured it would be good for around 220-240 but sadly it is no more so i won't make it to the track day at Pukehoe to find out.

Front toe = zero Rear toe = -2mm Front camber = 1 degree negative Front caster = as much as I can get, but I know it won't be enough 6deg if poss...lucky to get 5 I will run a little more caster on the left (~0.25 degree) to stop the drift due to road camber. Rear camber = 0.5 degree negative My tyres were wearing perfectly evenly on these settings ( had to get the adjustablecamber bushes to acheive it).

Definitely the Bilsteins (and swaybars if you can manage). On the highway your average speed will be way up through not having to slow for corners so much and also save on brakes and petrol through not slowing down and speeding up. Stagea brakes are not their weak point anyway unless you want to go racing. I can't see these ecu remaps coming out any time soon just get second hand SITC and SAFC in the meantime. And get some sheep you can eat them at Christmas.

That's 156mph - my guess, bog standard or even with a good exhaust, would be about 210 km/hr

Very interesting. I too have a DFA but I needed help completing it and the EIBC so although I fitted the EIBC which works well (and also tells you the injector cycles) I wasn't confident to fit the DFA and so picked up a cheap SAFC (as well as an SITC) . When you fit the DFA you will find adjusting will alter your timing but if you can track the timing with your consult then you should be able to fix it roughly with an SITC. I have an LM2 to monitor my AFRs. If you read the guff with the DFA you will see that it can be calibrated to work in a small range and I was going to (will eventually) install it in the line from the O2 sensor to try to adjust closed loop running in order to improve fuel economy. If that doesn't work I will put it in place of my SAFC. If it does work I will get another DFA to replace the SAFC (seeing as I already have the controller and I can always sell an SAFC).

While I am very happy with my GCG Hi-flow (plenty of boost from 2,500 on with my Jaycar EIBC Dave) I have heard good things from users of these two (quote):i think you should be looking at a GT3071 or the GT3076 both with the 60mm turbine in a 0.82 turbine housing. (don't choose the 0.63 housing). with the cams and headwork the GT3076 will get you an easy 275rwkw without wringing its neck and personally that is what i would go for. if i could specify the 52trim compressor then that would be the icing on the cake (ie approx 475hp comp) which lowers it top end potential but should bring it on a whisker earlier than the 56trim version (end quote) However while you car is going so well I would save up for a brand new (or known near new) one rather than looking for a bargain on ebay. That way you shouldn't have to touch it for years (apart from the odd tune).

I have a copy of the 258 page translated owners handbook (full workshop manual not available in English). It just has the usual operating instructions and service schedule but not detailed specifications. You could have mine for NZ$40 including postage. PM me with your address if interested.

At the power levels you have now your car will be going very well indeed so no need to do without food to get the last few kw but gutting the cat wil be free and result in a significant increase. At the year and mileage of S1 and most S2 Stageas the catalytic converter will be adding to emissions anyway rather than reducing them.If you do go the whole hog ( new turbo) you will end up with (allowing 70kw for transmission losses) 310 to 320kw - serious power in a package with the Atessa, suspension and brake mods to handle it. An inspiration to us all!

Certainly don't replace the turbo with the supercharger but I see Japanese tuners have added twin superchargers to a GTR (I couldn't quite see how it worked but I think the superchargers were blowing into the turbos (should assist with quich spool!).

Removing speed cut is not a necessity for the road (unless you are in Germany) but it does not do any harm - you can do 180 in third and in fourth 200 is not really revving hard. BTW I don't suggest trying these speeds on public roads and not anywhere if you haven't done some basic improvements to your suspension and wheel alignment - the standard setup could have you struggling to keep it on the road at illegal speeds. It is a necessity for track days unless you like being passed by slower cars that don't have speed limiters.

You seem to have a very improved package. You have bought a lot of gear and with the port and polish i would think you would expect quite a bit more power. You have identified a restrictive exhaust and that should be straight forward to fix. i think you need two things: 1. A computer 2. Some serious dyno time (for example do you need the adjustable cam gear with your poncams/ Has someone tried a number of different settings? On the question of the computer the latest Link is suppose d to be able to handle autos -i haven't enquired yet but they have a lot of computing power and inputs and outputs. There are tuners and tuners and I am sure that just as In NZ there are some who can get a lot more out of the same car as others. There is no substitute for proven experience and there are a few who seem to stand out such as Anthony (Guilt Toy) or Dr Drift - you could try to talk to a few of their clients or perhaps there are others closer to you ( I am not familiar with the Aus scene) but 240AWKW should not be out of the question unless it is just the turbo holding you back. Anyway all your mods are sound and it is good that you are feeling the improvements in the driving.

I hit a metaphorical wall at 180. I hit a real culvert at 80k - that's what wrote my car off.

I bought a set of maltech lines for my Series 1 but they were too short to fit properly on the brackets. They do work however - just had to fiddle with mounts. It would be good if someone could send their existing lines in as a pattern.

Well your mate's 33 coupe is probably wire 53 but I'm sure a search in the Skyline section will confirm that. I had a quick look at the pinout diagram for Stageas (you'll find it in the DIY section under ECU) and the most likely suspect is the wire on pin 29 which is where my greddy speed cut thingy is connected. In my car I hit a wall at 180 (it could vary according to how accurate your spedo is, what size wheels and tyres etc) but since putting the whatsit on the ECU i have had 180 - 190 at the Taupo A! GP track and just over 190 at Manfield. I was looking forward to Pukekohe next month where i should have been able to get well over 220 on the back straight but unfortunately my car is no more. Have to wait til i build my next one.

Always use the highest octane you can get - it is best for your car and should work out just as economical as lower, cheaper grades. Those little plastic bottles of octane booster do virtually nothing and the best of them may raise the octane by less than 1/3 of a point. If you're serious about raising the octane level of 95 or worse you need a couple of 5L containers of toluene. In NZ (and I believe its the same in Aus) all petrol comes from the same refinery with the brands being different by only miniscule quantities of additives. the only exception is that many oil companies also buy refined petrol on the spot market when it is cheap and different shipments can vary wildly so for me brand loyalty stretches only as far as the cheapest premium (although lately i,ve been buying an E10 blend and in Aus you can get E85 ...interesting thread under "forced induction"on this). The "best" fuel seems to be propane so looking forward to developments in the LPG line.

No just cars intended for the Japanese domestic market. In manuals you just cut the appropriate wire but for autos you need a device such as my GReddy Speed Limiter Cut Controller ($160 roughly) which will do the job. Jaycar don't appear to make one. You can get the speed limit removed with some major re-chips or of course with an aftermarket computer.

Why do you say without torque converter? There is very little oil in the pan -less than 2L I would guess - I used 12L by undoing the hose to the trans cooler, running the engine to expel 2L, then add 2L thru filler and repaet until the oil runs clean. Filter kit was around $100 but it is metal - you can just take it out and clean it. Any ATF will be OK - synthetic is better.

Another member in the UK recently got a shift kit from MV Automatics SA Just google the above for contact details (SA is South Australia BTW)

I have seen no evidence that the snow button does anything other than lock out first. The recommended setting for the (4 wheel) dyno (that I use) is to put on the snow button and select 2nd gear. That way there is no kick down. As you have noted yourself there is no effect on the Atessa. Why do you say "" why does it never toggle to power?" - do you have a faulty switch or are you saying why does the dog always choose snow rather than power?!!

DUNCAN There are strange forces at work here. I distinctly remember reading your long post and it isn't here now. Maybe it is under another thread??!! MOFF - there may be differences among the models but in my Stagea RS 4 T there is a button beside the gear lever (auto) which has a normal position and goes back to "snow", which simply locks out 1st gear, and forward for power which makes the gearbox hang on longer in each gear on a normal throttle. On a wide open throttle this is superfluous because the kickdown ensures that you go to the limit in each gear . On the dash there are two buttons next to each other. One is the rear heated screen. The other is the "synchro" button which means that you take off with a 50/50 power split, usefull for pulling a boat out of water or a horse float out of a paddock (no I have neither) but once the speed gets up (I am not sure of the figure but it is quite low) the computer takes over the normal function and distributes f/r drive according to need. Effectively the Stagea cannot be used on the road or track without the Attesa system (where fitted). Duncan has outlined a way to disable the front drive (pull fuse AND REMOVE FRONT DRIVE SHAFT) but this has limited value. Also there is a lot of work to removing all of the four wheel drive components so if you want to light up the rear wheels on their own get a 2 wheel drive car. (The AWD v 4WD distinction is a total diversion - these terms mean whatever the marketing department of the various manufacturers want them to mean)

Your original question makes a false distinction. See post #10 for the correct answer. So the early GTR would be mechanical the later GTRs computer controlled as per the Stagea.

Here is a photo of my car at the track day at Manfield yesterday wearing its R32 GTR forged wheels with Bridgestone semi-slicks. There were three Skylines including an R34GTR which was pushing the Porsche Cup Porsches and the usual BMWs, AMG Mercs, hot Hondas and Evos. [unfortunately wrote the car off on the Desert Road on the way home that night - still want the air diverter though Pete as I will be replacing it as soon as the insurance comes through!!] Annoyed that i didn't have time to tune/dyno the car before the weekend as after fixing the crap tune from the last people and fitting the adjustable cam gear the improved power felt like 210 -220AWKW but now I'll never know.

The difference between early and late Atessas is not AWD v 4WD. They all do the same job, driving the rear wheels and shifting drive to the fronts when needed. The difference is that early ones were purely mechanical and the later ones are computer controlled.

There is a manual M35 in my mechanic's yard - slammed to the gound, 4in exhaust, big turbo - I'll ask a few questions when I'm there next.

You can get rotors slotted - i,ve done it . The slots are straight which is not as "cool looking" as the curved ones but they do the same job. So if your rotors can stand being machined you could get them slotted. or if you buy new unslotted ones you could get slots put on them.