KiwiRS4T

Just looked it up . Maybe a new release. You use the stock set up and just cut into the circuit to the solenoid (pin 104). It will alter the speed at which boost is reached but not the max boost. It is relatively cheap. However you can get the same effect and also alter (if you wish) the maximum boost by the (free) 10 minute reroute of the hoses ( I can give you refs, links if you don't already have them).

+1Electronic boost controller, set of poncams, another tune!

I have a basic SAFC for sale (no screen, adjust with knobs) which works fine although obviously not as sophisticated as the later versions AU$110 posted anywhere in NZ or Aus. Also an Apexi SITC (so far as I know they are all the same knobs, no screen) AU$220 posted anywhere in NZ or Aus. Also have a Greddy Speed Limiter Cut Controller Type A (which I think means for autos) which worked fine on my auto RS4T. In case you don't know what it is it gets rid of the 180k speed limit (for track use only of course). AU$120 posted anywhere in NZ or Aus. All were working fine but have found someone who can make my ecu tuneable and get rid of the speed cut for my next Stagea (coming next month) so these no longer required.

I am sorry to hear your job is not safe. I would suggest waiting to see if you are still employed before spending any more money on your car. However to answer your question it is likely that you are due for a new pump and in the normal course of events it would be a sensible preventative maintainence move but if you a prioritising your spending try to get it tested first. Your local workshop should have a meter or better still some adjustable fuel pressure regulators have guages bult in so if you can borrow one that would tell you. I would suggest the fpr is not a priority. The SAFC would be the first thing to buy (having satisfied yourself about an adequate fuel supply) and you can get a reasonable tune with conservative timing although an SITC would give you the ability to push the timing at different rev levels.

Not sure what you're talking about. Do you have a catalogue reference or name for this item? So far as I know there is only the IEBC (Independent Electronic Boost Controller). Maybe you are refering to the digital pulse adjuster which is operated by the same controller as the DFA and IEBC (not a trimpot). That can be used to reduce boost but is not a viable boost controller and does not come near the ability of the IEBC. It is only capable of varying a pulsed signal but has no ability to use the signal from the injectors to do so in any useful way.

all gone but I 'll shoot down to my mechanic tomorow - he's got one to wreck as well

Sorry totally destroyed by impact

I have a Walbro pump ( they're cheap) and its fine. Apparently there were some counterfeit ones being sold a while back that were dodgy. If you don't want to take the risk get a Bosch (more expensive). Going back to my original suggestion (SAFC and SITC) even at your level of mods you need some way of tuning your engine... currently you have nothing. If you are short of cash get a SAFC and a SITC and a tune. If you can manage it get a Vipec and you will be set for your current level of mods and anything else you might do.

You're wrong. The Link ecu is marketed as Vipec in Au presumably because Australians don't believe anything good can come out of NZ except the odd league player or racehorse. So the real question isn't which is better but how good is your local support...buy either from someone who knows his stuff.

I had the same problem when I got my new GCG - put it down to compressor "surge" so I(I have a Jaycar EIBC) turned the boost down to around 10psi at 2500 -3000 and built upto 16psi from 3500 on - that fixed it.p.s. you should def think about a vipec (or link) computer

Here is a link to a photo of my car with V35 rims:http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=199620210 They are 16x6 1/2 J offset 40mm. They are quite cheap here - I sold that set for $160 - but I reckon they look great on a Stagea and with 16in wheels you can have 50 or 55 profile tyres and get a decent ride even with aftermarket suspension. er I guess mine were the early ones..I knew that later ones were 17s but hadn't notied the 18s - you can get similar 17s and 18s from the 350z

Bad news - hope you are okay. As the airbags have deployed it will almost certainly be a write off although if your chassis is not bent the front looks repairable - buy the wreck and get an R34 front![nb Stageas had a 5 star crash rating and having written mine off after leaving the highway and hitting a culvert I can say it is well deserved - I walked away with a few cuts and bruises and a headache].

Sorry just sold the tailgate complete with spoiler

R33 is a car Stagea is a wagon so you need quite different suspension front and rear. If you can find a proper Bilstein agent they should be able to set up the shocks according to your requirements (max comfort, 10/10ths cornering power, or whatever you tell him.

I'd lend you mine but it would take a week to get there. last idea did you use the prescribed cable WC7502? Others have tried cables which fit the plugs but do not work.

We (I) could be wrong about this. I had an alarm guy around today and he said that some Stageas do not have solenoids for the driver's door lock. It is possible that the remote locking was an option and that if you don't have it the drivers door has no solenoid (only a switch for operating the other 3 doors and tailgate). I can't check becasue i have sold my driver's door but I'm getting another Stagea next month and I'll have a good look.

I presume you have eliminated the two most common problems by1. turn ing up the trimpot to near max 2. Getting the two ics the right way round (sorry, haven't got the reference material in front of me but can look it up if you can't tell which way they go) - they look similar but are programmed differently.

Bolts are 45mm long (excluding head) and 14mm dia for fronts.

One of the advantages of the Jaycar IEBC - looks 100% stock under the bonnet - you can lock the unit in the glovebox or hide it in the dash some where (or under a seat).

Series 2 have GTR rods should be fine at 1.1 bar. You will need some way of adjusting timing ...seeing as you already have an SAFC just get an SITC although I believe Nistune is available for your engine and that would be better. Have heard the hypergear is quite viable - how much for just the turbo (are they rebuilding yours)?

RS Four badge off grill $20 delivered anywhere in NZ or Australia. Someone was looking for badges a while back. can't sell the back one because I am looking to sell tailgate complete.

The vent affects the rate of building boost. If your boost solenoid is cycling at 100% some of the pressure is going out through the vent. At the same amount of boost being produced by the turbo if you make the vent smaller more pressure will go to the wastegate allowing more control of boost with less cycling.I do all my setting of boost in 2nd gear (snow button on to stop kickdown into first) and with wide open throttle. I start at the bottom and watch the boost rise and increase the outputs at each stage to keep the boost (for example with a stock turbo) below 10 psi. This is why you need two people. Watch the boost guageand if it goes above 10 at any input stage increase the outputs at that stage. Later if the boost begins to fall away decrease the outputs to keep the boost up to 10. If you do this i 2nd gear this will happen very quickly so itis hard to read by yourself. If you do it in 3rd gear you will suddenly find yourself doing 180 and running out of road so best done in 2nd with another pair of eyes (unless you have a video camera trained on the boost guage and the handcontroller). I cold give you a map but it owuld not work for you becasue of different vent sizes and different intercooler flows and turbo out puts but typically the curve would go something like this ...but don't use this map it is just an illustration - you have to build your own one step at a time... (inputs first then outputs): 0=0 1=0 2=0 3=0 4=0 5=0 6=0 7=0 8=0 9=0 10=0 11=0 12=6 (less than 6 does nothing anyway) 13=10 14=16 15=24 16=32 17=42 18=54 19=64 20=66 21=68 22=68 23=68 24=68 25=68 26=68 27=68 28=68 29=68 30=66 31=66 32=66 33=66 34=66 35=66 36=66 37=66 38=65 39=65 40=64 41=63 42=62 43=61 44=60 45=58 46=56 47=54 48=52 49=50 50=47 51=43 52=38 53=31 54=23 53=14 54=6 55 onwards=0

I've no idea about the size of the vent because i had a needle valve on that line and just wound it up or down to suit. I observed the boost without the EBC to see when it came in and with the GCG that was in the 2000 rev band and would go off the scale if I let it. I had to limit boost at low revs to about 10psi otherwise I would get surging but over about 3000 built it up to 16 and turned down the EBC at the top to maintain boost. You really need two people to do it safely or you''ll end up doing 180 while not watching where you're going!! You don't really need two boost maps because boost is basically controlled by your right foot, not rpm so I could lend my car to a couple of old ladies and they could drive it no problem. Later I developed two maps -one for nights ( I am a night shift workerand drive quite a bit at night) and another for hot days (turn down the ebc a bit to allow some more flow ).

You don't want to be at 100% boost solenoid - you need to make your vent smaller untl your max solenoid load is about 70 -80%max

OK AU$80 incl postage - PM me your address if you want to go ahead,