KiwiRS4T

Autos do as well - eccentric bush on the inner but doesn't give much adjustment.

Aircon vents for the rear passengers on my WGNC34 S1 are under each of the front seats and not independently controlled.

In my view you have been ripped off big time. As with all things the problem is to find a skilled operator who knows what they are doing. And to know what the alternatives are. Your front camber should be 1.0 neg (factory is 1.58deg to 0.08) so your original settings were near enough not to spend money on. You don't mention toe in which is another factor in uneven wear and on a awd (yours awd but manual , yes?) should be 0mm on the front. Castor is not that relevant to tyre wear but more is better so on my last S1 I paid $209 for castor bushes and more for labour getting them pressed out and in - for my new S1 I got a pair of adjustable castor rods for $120 so I have learned that lesson. BTW my car is lowered about 30- 35mm The rear camber should be 0.5 deg neg so you had a problem. I am getting some adjustable camber arms (Cusco items are $300 locally made $130 pr) and I am sure you should be able to get some in Aus for about $150 - real easy to fit yourself compared to bushes. Again check your toe in: ideal is zero but factory is 0.4 to 1.1mm each side. Also I never rotate my tyres. ( As a matter of interest did you ? Because going on the camber alone your problem should only have been with the rears). So basically you were poorly advised. The front camber bushes were not needed (and apparently ineffective or wrongly installed (can you see if the offset is in the correct postion?). They should have offered the choice of bushes or adjustable arms for castor (how much castor did you end up with? factory says 3 to 4.5 but 6 deg would not be too much). Rear camber looked to be too much to take out with bushes. They should have suggested adjustable camber arms at least. The labour charge on top of the alignment looks excessive. However they have chosen the most labour intensive path. It is much easier to fit adjustable arms than press out bushes ( you need a ten ton press or something - not easy to do at home but adjustable arms are a simple DIY followed by a proper alignment.) My race suspension shop charges $80 an hour - did they really spend 7 hours on top of the alignment on your car? You could complain about the poor advice but specifically the labour charge - ask them what their hourly rate is and how long they spent on the car and invite them to lower it - it is not unknown for workshops to revist their labour charges if challenged. If you were ripped off don't blame yourself - its very easy with a service you don't use often and where you can't always get recommendations from friends.

Do you know if S1 and S2 will both fit? Here is one: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-210178427.htm

How much power on a stock engine? Here is a real life answer from "Lith" a Kiwi with a Skyline with a decent sized turbo running modest boost: I have been running around using the car pretty much as a daily with around 270rwkw for over two years/near 40,000km - I made that power on about 1bar of boost and the car came back from a compression test a couple months or so ago with really even compression so I think its fair to say thats a pretty safe level for an RB25. I have mates with ~220rwkw 25ts and jumping from one of their cars into mine the step from 220kw to 270kw really is a fairly big jump, I reckon its not being greedy (so long as the tune is fine a stock RB25 loves it!) but still gives your right foot a pretty decent amount to play with without being ridiculous so I can't help but think of it as a perfect happy medium. I am positive you can make more than that fine but I haven't found it necessary

Rather than highflowed injectors an easier and cheaper fix is to fit an adjustable fuel pressure regulator (provide you have a grunty fuel pump) and up the pressure a little. I was making around 200AWKW with the standard injectors running at no more than 85% duty. the long term answer for bigger power is bigger injectors (say 550).

Yep not complaining about the build quality Hugh, having just pulled one apart I can tell you that they are very well constructed but some parts are R33 some S14 some GTR etc. I have just got a copy of Fast and will have to learn how to use it to make it easier to track down parts.

A rather late reply but generally left and right relates to sitting in the drivers seat - you will notice that parts that are labelled left and right ( such as lights, seats, doors )follow this convention i.e. passengers side is left, drivers side is right - thus turbo is on the left, steering column on the right etc.

The biggest contributor to your power increase will be the exhaust and upping the boost. The pod and FMIC won't make any difference and the bigger fuel pump will provide you with a safety margin but no more power. I doubt you will top 200 AWKW. What are you remapping? Have you got an aftermarket ecu? If you want a significant power increase you will need a bigger turbo or at least highflow the stocker with new internals...steel wheels etc. Then you will get some benefit from the FMIC.

The RB25DET neo definitely has GTR rods - I don't know what else - so it will take a bit more than the S1. The mods you have in mind should get you more than 230AWKW - I don't know the capability of the turbo you have. The key to getting good results is a top tuner. I know of 3 or 4 in my city but I am not sure where you are exactly but if you read through the general skyline pages you will find people who are highly recommended like Anthony (Guilt Toy), Trent etc. For example it seeems the PFC tends to exaggerate knock readings so some tuners don't screw up the advance as much as they could - and airflow and advance seem the key to getting the most from your package. I would think the next step (apart from a bigger turbo) would be to port and polish the head and get a set of poncams.

Yes, done thanks. I didn't realise it was possible til Iamhe77 pointed out the button to me!

Thanks a million!!!!!

Chopped springs highly illegal in this country. When your wheel is at the bottom of its travel is the spring free to move around?

I have the Jaycar boost controller which i heartily recommend! I also have the Jaycar Digital Fuel Adjuster (to control Air/fuel ratios) which I don't need as I am getting my ecu fitted with a tunable chip so is for sale without a hand contoller which is the same one as for the boost controller so anyone thinking of buying this excellent piece of equipment could get the equivalent of an SAFC for just $100 extra!

I have found the new format where each post has to be downloaded as a seperate web page a major pain - very time consuming on my crap broadband and must be a nightmare on dial-up (although i get the impression that many of you are using your work computers!). It is especially annoying when you are looking for something you know to be there and are faced with, for example, a complete list of posts entitled "re jaycar...." etc so that you can't tell one post from another. Can anyone see any redeeming features for this new layout or will you join with me in sending a message to the moderators or whoever is in charge of the web site (which itself is a great asset and source of information) asking for a return to the old format? While I'm at it people could help by having relevant headings for their posts such as "PFC compatitible with S2?"or "how do you adjust idle?" rather than "Has anyone else had this problem?" or "this has got me beat!"etc.

This new format doesn't help. It is very time consuming having to load each post as a page instead of being able to scroll down to look for what you want.

I have the pinouts for R34 skyline and s1 nissan stagea (in pdf form) and they are virtualy identical although that is not to say that the ecus are. If I scan the diagrams they are not very easy to read but if you pm me your email address I can try to send the scanned version or if you send me your address I can post a copy (but that will take 5 or 6 days)[email protected]

The one in the DIY section in the stickies (above) works .[that is if you have the OV300 ecu which is the most common and not the OV301 or OV310 which are slightly different].. it says R34ECU pinouts but works for S1 Stagea... I had about 5 things connected to the ecu in my S1 using about 21 connections and they worked.

No good for your S1. Have been fitted with difficulty to a S2 manual. Ideal solution is Vipec/Link (about $2500) has been done recently ...or a daughterboard and tunable chip fitted to your ecu.. I will report soon on mine (cost $800) to see if the software can be sold with the ecu so that it can be tuned anywhere rather than just by the person who installed it (X-tune here or Toshi or Dr Drift in AU).

Yep use the stock snorkel but also have an inlet behind the lh headlight - at 100 km/hr there's plenty of cold air coming in there as well.

One of the problems with Stageas is that they were thrown together with bits from the parts bins of various cars. The S1 ecu has the three rows of pins like an R34 but has more in common with the R33 but the wiring is actually unique to the Stagea. Ideally you would be best off with a Vipec which would not only run OK with the auto but would also readily adapt to manual. The cheaper option is to retain the stock ecu and get a daughterboard and chip fitted (not by nistune) which will allow removal of the speed limit, rev limiter altered if wanted, tune afrs and timing and leave all other Stagea functions including auto intact. I am getting one in Auckland fitted and tuned in the car for $800 or locally Toshi and Dr Drift will do the same (don't know about the price). BTW if someone has fitted a FMIC and Micotec they have possibly also upgraded the fuel pump and injectors?

I have a set of nismo shocks installed in my S1. I got them second hand and they were recond with new valves by a local Bilstein trained specialist. They are Bilsteins presumably made to order for Nismo and stamped "Nismo". Mine are front: 56110-RSC45 ENP and rear 53210 RSC45 ENP. My springs are Teins front F-SIN78-010311 HCC and rear R-SIN79-010382 HCC

Here is a tutorial by SK. Have read and see if its you:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...m-B-t73824.html

Stock R33 one - can't see mine atm but will be pulling the intercooler pipes out soon to be changing my smic for a bigger nismo one and could get the details then if someone doesn't beat me to it. Stocker good for up to 210AWKW or so or else get a Z32 one now if you are planning for big power in the future (you should be able to get a stock one cheap - look or advertise in the general section parts for sale/wanted as plenty of skyline owners will have upgraded to Z32 or gone the no AFM way).BTW I have a spare S1 ecu for sale if you find you need one.

Minor mods? How about 800+hp at all 4 wheels: http://www.guncity.co.nz/gtr-city-stock-li...-xidc43024.html