KiwiRS4T

There is not a pdf for the Stagea (WGNC34) and the Skyline ones vary quite a bit and even the four wheel drive Skyline is not quite right. I have been using SK's figures (knowledgeable on many things, suspension is his actual specialty) and they have been spot on for handling and even tyre wear. They are to be found here (expand the chart to make it legible): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...l&hl=pineapples

What mods do you have other than the unichip? BTW how is it tuned - is it done in place via a usb cord or through the consult port or does it have to be taken out and modified?

It has a lot of computing power and extra inputs so there is no reason why it can't perform this function in exactly the same way that the stock ecu does. However I am trying to get a lot more information as i am keen to get one for my car so I have sent a detailed list of questions to the factory (Link in Christchurch) and will keep corresponding til I get all the answers. I'll post up any significant new information I get or maybe write a wee report.

Spend some time reading through this forum before parting with your cash. If you have the money for a bigger turbo then you can make sure your 3in system is compatible with it. The front mount will help with a bigger turbo (won't give any power gain otherwise). You won't be able to "tune" the engine with the stock ecu so if you have the money you should get a Vipec/Link ecu. With less money you could get an Apexi SITC and SAFC. Your ten year old fuel pump could struggle to keep up so as insurance you should get a new, better pump (e.g. Walbro or Bosch). An electronic boost controller ( I recommend the Jaycar IEBC but there are others) will help build an maintain boost. By now you should be looking to upgrade your suspension and brakes - its all in this forum in the DIY and other threads. How much power can your stock engine take? Seems to depend partly on how you treat it but all of the above should be OK at around 220 - 250AWKW depending on which turbo you go with and the quality of the tune.

Thanks for the info. I am using a Jaycar EIBC which helps build boost faster and helps maintain my target of 16psi at the top end. They are cheap to buy but you have to assemble them (unless you can find one ready built). Otherwise ask Trent to recommend another electronic boost controller.

Excellent result. What is the access for tuning the Nistune? Is there a usb port or is it done through the Nissan Consult port? Does Trent suggest the motor will stand 20psi (I know the neo has stronger rods than the S1)? An electronic boost controller would probably be good although I am sure you are happy with the power you have now. What is the duty cycle on the injectors ( I am assuming you are still running the stock items)? Will they cope with a bit more or has it been suggested you upgrade them? How about the AFM? I am wondering if people are upgrading these things unnecessarily or are you running on the limit? I have just installed my GCG highflow and I know it can make plenty of boost but I am trying to work out what I need to get the most out of it.

I got a second hand pair of Cusco adjustable castor arms for $125 - less than the cost of the bushes I got last time and now with unlimited adjustment ( went for 6deg left and 5.75 deg rt) and a set of rear adjustable camber arms for $130 (they vary new from $130 locally made to $250 Cusco type).

I've got one for say $50 posted. You are welcome to wait for a more local/cheaper response first as i haven't currently got them advertised.

I have all the Attessa stuff that sits on top of the diff as well as the Atessa computer from my S1 which did not make any clicking noises that I could notice and can supply at not retail, not trade, and even better than staff prices ... in other words mates rates (much less than $1600) so contact me if you need something! BTW dropping the diff is not the major that it sounds. You can unbolt the subframe and lower it quite a bit while leaving everything connected (probably have to take the exhaust off its hangers too). Just jack the car up, put axle stands under the chassis and then undo the four subframe bolts (or nuts I forget which) and lower the diff down on the jack.

Yep guy here bought a new front lip for his RS260 from Autech (cost about NZ$2000 though)

The standard smic is 360mm overall the Trust was a little more so width will not be a problem. The Trust and Nismo are just over 100mm thick but there is room for more so the thickness will be OK. Height will be a problem as the GTT and Nismo ones at around 230mm just fit and the Trust at 240mm was jammed in. You could go the extra 60mm by removing the bits under the intercooler depending on your ground clearance as it would protrude down a bit. (Or, more drastically, you could chop out the metalwork above the intercooler and modify the aircleaner).

Well I have just sold the rear subframe from my w/o S1 Stagea to a guy with a 180SX or suchlike with hicas so that he can be free of the hicas. The less drastic method is (and I have no personal experience of this) to remove such hicas elements as you can and get a lockbar to secure the rear wheels. Have a search on the general skyline section for removing hicas.

I don't think the N1 Block and /or turbos were stock on the RS260 so together with the body kit which I like much better than the stock front bar I would say you have picked up a very nice example.

Should go quite well with that sort of power! Are you running 16psi on stock turbos or have they been replaced? BTW what kind of cams - are they poncams or some custom jobs?

I just had my windscreen replaced. $280 fitted. Would have been extra for the anti-icing strip but I told them not to bother as i never need it. I will find another use for the switch.

I am happy that you have a new job. Getting Stagea on the road is a bonus. Was your blown turbo a GCG high flow? I have gone to the trouble of getting one over from Sydney and I wouldn't like to think it has a short life. Did you find the reason for the failure?

Here is a roof rack: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-210628315.htm Depending on how much you want to pay if he won't post it to you i can buy it and send it to you.

How about $50??

My Walbro is intank. Bosch do an intank and outside pump - probably easier to stick with the intank. Haven't sussed out the wiring yet . Apparently S1 has two power levels to pump maybe yours is variable. I plan to change mine to full voltage (13.8v) as it seems there is normally a resistor in place and walbro need full current to perform to max. I will have to do some more research (plently of info in general skyline pages).

Just take the top off the strut tower and undo the two nuts on top of the shock. Line up a bracket and make two slits with a Stanley knife (you might have to pull some of the foam blocks out of the way). When you put the bracket in you may have to lever it in a bit and when you've done both sides and put the bar in tighten the 4 nuts on top of the shocks and maybe put some of the foam blocks back (I'm sure you don't really need instructions - its rather obvious what has to be done once you start).

I have a stock Series 1 Stagea ecu for sale out of my RS4T. It is an OV300 which is the most common ecu (no need for a photo...if you have one it looks exactly like that). Could come in handy if you want to be able to continue driving your car while you send your ecu to Toshi or Dr Drift to be chipped or you want to return your car to stock and take out the aftermarket ecu? $100 includes postage in Australia.

If you pay someone to install a Walbro or a Bosch you will probably still come out cheaper than a stocker and have a better pump as well (but as Simon says, change/clean your filters first).

Obviously when I get my RB30 powered Stagea I'll have a massive front mount! Apparently in some Aussie states there is a legal issue. In NZ front mounts are not illegal (although certification may be necessary if you have chopped the metalwork to fit one) but for me its partly cost and partly wanting to keep a low profile. I have done track days with the Trust side mount with about 200AWKW and it has been fine. I am hoping to get to about 220AWKW and am making a temperature controlled water spray with a spare windscreen washer set-up from my w/o car. If I get carried away and want still more power I'll have to get the beefed up gear box and a front mount as well as the poncams, port and polish, Link computer etc (around $6500 all up) so that will be some time away yet![bTW the measurements in the original post are for the core only, excluding the side tanks]

For people who want to stick with the smic for whatever reason ( there comes a point somewhere around 220 - 230 AWKW where you don't have much choice but to go front mount) there are alternatives. I have just spent the day (well most of it) fitting my Nismo smic. I had found a Trust one for my last S1 but damaged it in the crash and was lucky to find this Nismo one. There is a good "how to upgrade from R33 to R34GTT i/c" by SK in the DIY section. The GTT and Nismo bolt straight in . The Trust holes don't line up with anything much and mine was virtually hanging by the hoses (although without any problems)! The best looking one is the ARC but I wasn't able to locate one in NZ. The stock S1 R33 one looks (and is) really tiny when you get it out. Dimensions (width x height x thickness): Stagea S1 (R33) 210 x 185 x 65 Stagea S2 (R34GTT) 210 x 225 x 80 Trust 240 x 195 x 100 Nismo 200 x 230 x 100 ARC - I don't have the capacity but I believe it is greater than all of the above. Front view S1/GTT/Trust/Nismo Top view Nismo/Trust/GTT/S1

Autos do as well - eccentric bush on the inner but doesn't give much adjustment.