KiwiRS4T

There is a kit with a gasket and filter for around $80 but if you do buy one carefully check the filters to see if they are the same, as the kit I was given had a filter which looked right but the intake was longer and I couldn't get the pan back on without cutting off the extra length. In fact you may be able to get by without the kit as the filter is steel and can be cleaned rather than replaced and if you are lucky the gasket will be unbroken and can be reused (but watch for leaks). Dropping the pan will only yield one or two litres of atf. To change all of the oil you need to take a hose off the trans cooler and run the engine to pump atf into a container (say 2L). When the container is full pour the same quantity of fresh fluid down the dip stick. Repeat until the oil is clean ( about 12 - 15 L). n.b. dropping the pan is not a 5min job. You will probably have to support the box and remove the cross member to access all of the retaining bolts and there are some fiddly pipe brackets at the front of the pan.

You will need about 13-15 litres for the auto. Haven't done the transfer case yet ...must pull finger.

It could be a lot of things but cleaning out your AAC valve would be a prime suspect. There is a great tutorial here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...nd-t110431.html the links to the photos do not work but the photos have been put back in if you scroll down a bit. Well worth doing and could solve your problem.

Bleed off some more air for more boost. 10psi is considered safe but some people have run 12psi for years with no problem. Depends on if you're feeling lucky or are looking for an excuse for a highflow!

I bought a 20L Fuchs ATF 4000 a semi synthetic which meets Dexron III specs ( for the auto, atessa and power steering).

Walbro or Bosch intank. I can give you instructions on how to do it yourself or any w/shop or auto elctrician should be able to do it (siphon out most of your petrol first).

Looks like a very well specced car! Should be very fast. Will it be staying in Japan or are you moving on to UK or Aus or somewhere else?

The hole is pretty much on the end so i guess you could call that soft. If you haven't bought one yet you have to make a point of specifying 24mm otherwise you will probably be sent a 22mm one the same as you have already. I found it made little difference (as compared to the much heavier rear one which helped a lot). If you are going to buy a front one I would recommend you get a 24mm adjustable and set it to hard to start with. If you start getting understeer you can put it back to medium. Or if you haven't got one yet you could give it a miss and use the money for something else!

Well done! As you have noticed the first thing that strikes you is the ability to build boost really quickly. As you taper off the solenoid duty cycle at the top end of the rev range down to zero again it will hold boost as long as the turbo will make it. Best tuned with a passenger (or driver) - it can get very exciting watching the numbers on the controller, the rev counter, the boost gauge, and the speedo without noticing that the road in front of you is disappearing at a rapid rate!

Would have thought GTST suspension not suitable for a wagon. Do the springs even fit inside the turret?

Having a think about this speedo - the main thing that you need people to sign up for is the dial face as presumably there will be some set up costs and say 20 would be cheaper (each) than 3 off. So that is where the group buy comes in and i guess you will need money up front. There was a previous proposal for a full set of dials that glow in the dark or something (don't know what happened to that) but for my part I want the dial to look as near stock as possible. If you go for 320km/hr max that will suit everyone ( I only know of one Stagea that will get anywhere near that but at least it should do the job for any level of mods or repowers). The other bit, recalibrating the speedo will probably be the same price for one or more. In fact Jaycar do a kit that will recalibrate the speedo by up to 99% so that would do the job for those keen enough and able to build the kit. On the other hand i am pretty sure an instrument shop in Auckland here can do the job ( and probably in various Australian cities) so I am really just after the dial face.

Try bleeding it - 2 bleed points one on end of gearbox extension nr hose and one on top of diff - and if the fluid looks crappy change it with a good quality atf. (BTW if it comes to it i have all the atessa stuff spare - atessa ecu and the stuff that sits on top of the diff).

I want one! I believe they are available in Japan (Dolphin?) but so far I have had no luck tracking one down. As a matter of fact i have a spare speedo cluster i could send away to be done.

The new bar should be the same dimensions as the old bar except for diameter so if it is 30mm too short i would be returning it and asking for a new one. I believe the process by which they are made is not fully automated and there is room for operator error. Take some measurements and ring your supplier asking for a replacement. Mine fitted OK.

Hey mate that was MV automatics Kidafa was trying to steer you to. Try googling them and you'll get some info on their shift kit - maybe email them and ask Mike who has done installations of his kit in Perth ...would be cheaper to get the kit at the same time as the fluid is changed. Changing the atf is not a simple task but you can do it yourself. Dropping the sump on the auto box will only yield around 1 or 2 litres but at least then you can clean the fiter (its steel) and pan and then put it back together. then take off a hose from the transmssion oil cooler and run the engine until you have collected a couple of litres. Stop the engine and pour 2L of new atf down the dipstick (for the auto trans ) and repeat til the oil comes out clean. Could take 10 to 12 Litres.

Yes the transfer case has its own oil supply but the nipple right at the end of the gear box extension near the hose that goes to the attessa on top of the diff is for the Atessa not for the transfer case oil. Filling is via the reservoir in the boot and both bleed nipples are for the Atessa. The fluid for the Atessa is officially Nissan's specially expensive power steering fluid but i use a semi-synthetic automatic transmission fluid. So you can go to Nissan or use any good quality atf.

Power dip at 5000rev/min is a Rb25Det characteristic - can be cured with aftermarket ecu and a good tune.

I cleaned the filter in the tank when I put my Walbro in but since I'm getting a tune tomorrow i thought I'd change the main fuel filter (just in front of and below the brake master cylinder). Its a bit of a pain to get at (like the plugs!) which may be why they are often overlooked. It helps to remove the bracket as my hoses were somewhat frozen on the filter. I cut it open with a hacksaw and it was chock full of gunk! I have also been using a 10% etheanol fuel (Gull Force 10) in my new car and apparently that helps to clean out the tank but all the garbage deposits in the filter. The filter is just a generic item (I got a Ryco Z200) so you don't have to buy from Nissan. Worst case scenario a blocked filter can starve your engine of fuel and cause it to self destruct so if you can't remember when you last changed your fuel filter do it this weekend!!

Nipple above diff bottom right of photo near mounting point:

If you mean automatic gearbox do a search on "shift kit" for a snappier change. If you want to rebuild it to take 300kw then that has been discussed a little while ago too. If you really do mean drive train then you can start by replacing the S1 stuff with RS260 or GTR parts.

Well spit it out -what ecu do you have? A decent aftermarket ecu will improve efficiency but most of us choose to use that to go faster so you will use more fuel. If its a pig to drive because of the ecu that doesn't reflect well on your tuner - try someone else.

Check to see you have an adequate fuel supply (flow and pressure) and if you can't afford an aftermarket ecu get rid of the fcd and get an safc instead.

Yep that'll work if you haven't got a gas set and its just touching in one small area.

Are you still using the factory boost solenoid? Some of the lines you were describing sounded like the lines to and from the boost solenoid to the actuator etc. Whereabouts are you located? I am sure another member would be happy to come around and have a look at your set-up.

Look through the DIY and suspension and brakes threads above. A set of lowering springs for about $300 or $3k + for decent coilovers (cheap ones would be a backward step). Have a good look at your nismo shocks. Mine are front: Nismo 56110-RSC45ENP and rear nismo 53210-RSC 45ENP (with Tein springs) but they are actually rebadged Bilsteins so if yours are too you can just change the position of the circlip to reduce the ride height - and cut some more grooves if you want to go lower still (min legal ground clearance is 100mm in NZ) and you may not even need different springs.