KiwiRS4T

If you have a good Vipec/Link installer in your area get one and that will take care of everything including boost control. For a stand alone boost controller you can't beat the Jaycar IEBC for effectiveness and price.

Depends what you want from your car but everyone will agree: get a complete three inch exhaust system from turbo back. If I were starting from scratch now i would get a Vipec next - you will get good performance gains and then every mod thereafter you could tune the engine to safely get the maximum benefit e.g. it would soon tell you if your fuel supply was inadequate. Read a few (or all of the) pages in this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...lts-t52540.html concentrating on the ones with actual dyno charts and see what really works and how much power you can realistically expect as opposed to optomistic claims. You will learn a lot...I did.

My door placard says 205/55/16 so you are probably looking at the 15in sizes. Your tryes are about 3% smaller so your speedo will be a little more optomistic then usual. Acceleration should be marginally better but not so you would notice it. Similarly fuel consumption should be fractionally worse. As GoldZilla says when you next change your tyres try to find ones slightly bigger than standard and your speedo will be more accurate. I am using 235/45/17 and they are quite a bit bigger than stock but my speedo is just about spot on. The Stagea final drive of 4.3 is qute low so the bigger the tyres the better!

Have you got a heavier anti-roll (sway) bar? They make a huge improvement in cornering going from a 20mm hollow bar to 24mm solid bar :BNR11XX24mm (but the front one seemed to make stuff all difference so I won't bother replacing the $360 bar destroyed in the crash).

OK my Teins are: Front: F-SIN78-010311 HCC Rear: R-SIN79-010382 HCC I would be interested if anyone has a rating for these as i haven't been able to find it yet. BTW my WGNC34 specific Bilsteins are labelled: Front: 56110-RSC45 ENP Nismo Japan Rear: 53210 RSC45 ENP Nismo Japan JUST EDITED MY FIRST POST - GOT IT THE WRONG WAY ROUND: FRONT IS 350 AND REAR IS 360mm [Just looking at my Tein part numbers and comparing them with your ratings maybe the last three digits are the rating which would line up with your figures of 3.1 and 3.8. If so then i wouldn't be looking for harder springs - I spend 12 hours a night driving trucks and want a bit of comfort from my car! Also for the track I have a set of 16in R32 GTR rims with semi slicks so my car sits a fraction lower again anyway.]

Here are my standard heights: Front 395mm Rear 372mm My current heights: Front 350mm Rear 360mm I have been toying with the idea of going lower still as I still have plenty of ground clearance (100mm legal minimum) but although it would be better for the track I think it would unacceptably degrade the ride quality for street use and its already a bit harder than I would like. I have Bilsteins (they are labelled Nismo but are definitely Bilsteins either made under licence or made for Nismo by Bilstein) and Tein Springs ($300 new). I wrote down the numbers of the Tein Springs and will try to dig them out.

I have a Walbro GSS341. the Bosch intank is also popular and both can be fitted to the existing cradle without too much trouble. Good luck with hill-climbing an almost two ton wagon! I guess its like me taking my similar car to the track - its never going to win races but its a lot of fun and some people are surprised to be passed by a "volvo hearse"!

In the first instance ring your local auto glass supply for a price. In NZ I have been suprised to find that I can get any glass for any car. I am sure it should be possible in Aus. Otherwise PM all the guys in the for for sale column wrecking cars.

Someone was looking for some a while back: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-213931073.htm

Bad example. If you stick a nozzle on a garden hose the amount of water passing through will either remain the same or become less (regardless of the speed of the water coming out of the nozzle). People don't spend $1000 on extractors and then look for ways to create back pressure. Effectively back pressure is as unwelcome on a n/a car as a on turbo.

Well done! You certainly haven't wasted any time. Next item should be an upgraded fuel pump as your 12 year old one may struggle to keep up. Since it looks as though you are going for serious power ( front facing plenum etc) you may as well go for the Link computer now. Then bigger turbo, injectors and a cold air box for the pod filter. Solid minimum 24mm rear anti-roll bar (BNR11XX or adjustable BNR11XXZ) will give a noticeable improvement (front not so important). Now you are faced with the choice of beefing up your auto (advisable if you're going for better than 250AWKW) or converting to manual. Keep us posted!

Which SAFC? The basic model just alters the signal from the afm and the ecu reacts accordingly. I don't see how it can not work but I haven't got an M35 to try it on.

If you do not want to go to the expense of an aftermarket computer get a Jaycar DFA or an Apexi SAFC at least and ideally also an Apexi SITC and then you will be able to alter air/fuel ratios and timing across the rev range.

No, back pressure is largely a myth. A turbo compresses air and after the compressed mixture is ignited the resultant expansion pushes the piston down and then has to go somehere hence the need for a big exhaust. If yours is too noisy add a resonator or otherwise modify the system but reducing the diameter is not a good idea. If for any reason you don't like the big pipe sticking out the back (although from your photo yours looks OK to me) get a twin tip.

Yours is rear wheel drive? An "s" model? Doubt if black grill surround is stock - I guess a previous owner liked it better that way. How about some photos!

There is a shortage of facts I will agree which is why I am in contact with the Link factory i Christchurch to get more detailed information. However, broadly I would say that the Link can do everything that Nistune can do ...but better.. and then has extra abilities.I understand that the Link has more computing power than the PFC and both can more finely tune timing and afrs than the nistune. Both can do away with the need for AFM's by providing purpose constructed maps. Both can be made to control boost. The link has extra inputs and outputs to control say an intercooler spray or poss nos etc. I am by no means an expert on these things and I do get sick of people saying X ecu is the greatest thing since sliced bread without being specific but I am already convinced that the Link has enough advantages to justify the expense. In a year's time I am hoping to know much more! Having said that i think the Nistune is excellent value for money and would get one if I did not have an S1. A local guy is going to chip a 300Z or A31 ? (cefiro?) ecu for me as I can't afford a Link just now.

I will be interested to see your chart - with similar mods and stock turbo (but before I installed my IEBC and SAFC) I got 154AWKW so hopefully you will get better than that.

No claims in 40 years? You must be a seriously good driver (with perhaps a modicum of good luck)!!

The short answer is "no" but you can go ahead and install the fmic and ebc no problem. The fmic will not give you any more power at this point but the ebc can be useful. You will not at this stage be able to change mixture (air/fuel ratio) or timing (except to ensure the static timing is correctly set at the factory 15deg if you have a timing light). Your stock ecu will run everything OK as in safely rather than optimally ( will probably run a little rich at the top like they all do). If you increase the boost a lot and use it that way (wide open throttle up to 7000rpm) you may experience R&R (rich and retard) where in order to protect the engine the ecu will dump extra fuel into the system and pull back the timing. You can use the ebc to increase the speed of boost build and get a modest increase in boost, but plumb in the fmic first before adjusting boost, and you should have no problems. At this stage you cannot "tune" the engine but the stock ecu will be OK. In order to get better fuel economy for normal running and more max power you will need to get a means of tuning the engine. From best to cheapest: Vipec/Link tuned and fitted around $2500 PFC (if you can find one for your car) around $1500 to $2000 Nistune fitted to your ecu $800 to $1000 Basic SAFC or DFA and Apexi SITC purchase only $500 (There are dozens more which work for others - Greddy e-manage, HKS F-con, Motec, Dr Drift or Toshi's chips etc) You cannot safely tune any of the above yourself unless you have minimum a knock detection system such as the K-mon (do not rely on the knock detection ability of the PFC) and a wide band AFR meter such as Tech Edge or Innovate Lm2 so normally that means you need a good tuner with access to a dyno and the above detection equipment. Some tuners with all the right gear can do a good job on the road - the ideal is one who does both (dyno and road). BTW you don't mention it but you could usefully get a high-flow panel filter for your stock airbox (such as Pipercross PP1128MX)

Yep that looks like a NZ price. I just paid $4500 for my bog standard S1 RS4T with 112,000km (which was cheap ) they usually go for $5000 to $6000 or around $7k to $8k for a S2. Mods are usually a negative or at best don't attract any premium. But RS260s are still too dear (around $20,000). Anyway Nobu, Stageas are just like any other car - check for smoke, oil leaks all the normal things. The only specifically Stagea problem I can think of is the dreaded rust under the door mirrors!

"it's not a problem running different widths so long as the overall rolling diameter is the same front to back" The problem is, it never is the same. The middle figure is not the height of the tyre in mm but the height expressed as a percentage of the width. People try to overcome this by for example running 9in rims on the back with 265/35/18 and 8in on the front with 235/40/18 (note different aspect ratio) and can get fairly close but the wear rates could be different and the ride and handling could suffer from having two different tyres front and rear. having said that i guess some people are running different width wheels with an Atessa system with no noticeable problems but I prefer to keep the same size front and rear.

That's pretty good for a stocker! Just a bigger exhaust will give you a useful power increase and if you get the right one it won't be too noisy.

Dave you don't have to touch the front bar - just remove the wheel and undo a few small bolts to peel back the front of the inner guard and all is revealed (maybe a couple underneath as well but just a few minutes work). I swapped out my smic that way.

A good ebc will get the most out of your turbo by keeping your wastegate shut better than a bleed type boost controller. I don't know if your turbo is running out of puff - what's it supposed to be rated at? Should think you would be able to keep it nearer 16psi a bit longer with an ebc.

Yeah Dave fit your IEBC. I fitted mine with the GCG turbo and boost build was really fast - apparently even with my RB20 actuator (10psi spring) there is some leakage that slows boost building. With the IEBC there is no boost whatever getting anywhere near the actuator until directed by the solenoid at the point that you direct - much more control and faster boost build than any bleed system.