KiwiRS4T

If you have rotors which are in good cond you can get them slotted. They are usually machined in a straight line but if you think about it for a second or two you can see that they will work as well as the visually more exciting curved slots.

the nistune chip sits in the stock ecu (so totally invisible) and can control afrs, timing, change rev limit and more importantly remove 180km speed limit. Sadly they are not available for S1 Stageas.

There is a thread on page 3 "S1 Clear front indicators" . From memory they cost more than I care to pay for something that doesn't make the car go faster so i am experimenting with a coat of black paint to match the strip on my front bar. When you turn the indicators on they still show orange. I have yet to try to get through the testing station with them.

I don't know how your boost cut works. Apparently on the R34 there is a sensor which cuts boost that can be fooled by a resistor in the circuit (its somewhere here on this site) but I don't know about your v6. I gues it depends on your long term plans. With the range of cars that you have i guess this is not going to be your drag car so you won't want to fork out for a Vipec ecu. I would suggest you build a DFA or buy a SAFC and fit that to give your engine some tunability.

Not quite sure where you're at. You say you have the right key (with two buttons). Do they work? If not have you tested or replaced the battery? Having done that if it still doesn't work have you tried the steps above (from mike's post out of Chook's thread). Why do you think that the fact that the new key you have had cut turns your car on proves that you haven't got a transponder? Or is it the case that you do have a key that works and you just want a spare? Have you PM'd Danwatt to see if his is still for sale? new ones are about $300 from Nissan.

Tell them that if its written off you want to buy the wreck - they may offer it to you first before putting it up for auction. I bought my write off for $1200 that way.

Yes i have R33 adjustable castor arms. You can just replace the bushes but if you are thinking of getting the eccentric bushes which will give you a fraction more castor you may as well get adjustable castor arms as they are not much more expensive than buying bushes and getting them pressed out and in. With castor arms i am running 6deg on the left and 5.75 deg on the rt ( to compensate for the road camber). Stock you can't get much more than 4.5deg. Some skylines run up to 9deg castor ( the more castor the better your straight line stability esp at speed) but you are limited by the 4wd and 6deg seems enough.

It can be done all right but i don't know how. Try a speedo repair shop.

Well if I were you I would get a new battery and if that didn't work try the advice above before i went to give Nissan megabucks.

No it shouldn't matter which way round the two wires go. When you turn the fog lights on the tail lights come on as well, but they are quite independent of the headlights. If the plug has been chopped off the fuse might have been pulled as well. Try turning the fog lights on and testing the wires with a meter or test light or just any old bulb (and/or have a look to see if the tail lights have come on - they are also independent of the ignition switch so you don't need the key on).

attachment=226152:DSC01990_edited.JPG] I haven't pulled the bulb out to verify that it is the same as oddy man's but as that is printed on top of the light unit it seems likely. In that case you don't really need the plug (shown in the middle of the rubber boot) but just get a couple of terminals (like the yellow ones in the photo and crimp or preferably solder them to the ends of your wires and then push them on to the connectors sticking out of the bulb (just visible in the photo to th right of the bolt head in the middle left hand side). [sorry - don't seem to be able to edit out the unwanted pdf file at the bottom] 310506att_2_.pdf

I have replied in the suspension thread above. BTW you are in the Stagea section - there is a general skyline section on this site with its own suspension threads.

Here is a link for the Teins (sample picture below) - you should be able to obtain these locally or you could buy from TradeMe: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-221745368.htm

Does the one with the RIPS number plate have a 1000hp RIPS RB30?

Its raining and quickly getting dark over here (car is outside) - I'll have a look tomorrow if no-one beats me to it.

There is a plastic screw cap that holds in a rubber boot but i think they only have to come off to change the bulb. the twin wires from the loom end in a black plastic plug which looks as though it just plugs into the back of the bulb although i haven't been able to pull it out to check without removing at least the battery clamps if not the whole battery ( I don't have very nimble hands).

There is a big fat loom that goes from side to side along the radiator support and at each end there is a smaller loom going to the headlamps and another smaller loom branches off that for the foglamps. If you trace back the wires going to the head lamp you should find a spare branch on the way to the inch thick (25mm) loom.

If you have a look on this site there is a listing for the Nismo suspension for 2wd Stageas. I know that the Nismo branded suspension on my awd WGCN34 is a rebadged Bilstein unit but I don't know what the 2wd Nismo unit is. There is a picture and a Nismo part number: http://www.nengun.com/nismo/s-tune-suspension-kit

I don't know what the ARC smic is rated at. I saw some big figure somewhere but can't remember what it was. I have emailed the question to the ARC website that you linked to. What power are you making at present? Please be sure to let me know if you are ever thinking of selling it!

Brendan you say the PFC idled fine but did you actually drive it? I have doubts that on an S1 it would even change gear let alone pull timing on changes.

Pretty sure it can't be done. Stagea S1 ecu is unique - plug and pinouts like R34 but different inside. I think Tangles is still using a chipped daughterboard in the stock ecu supplied by Toshi.

Here are some lowering springs for your M35s. You can buy them from NZ or just use the part nunmbers to try and locate them elsewhere: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-220614368.htm

Definitely get the 3in exhaust from turbo back. Having got rid of the pod and now with a quieter exhaust all i can hear is the whistle of the GCG highflow. Ask a fellow M35 owner to take a ride with you to judge whether your turbo is unusually loud.

Yep rear bar is p- weak from factory 19mm hollow (I cut mine in half to check) new one is 22mm solid - big difference. I bought non- adjustable. I reckon you could do your own alternative mounts if you really wanted.

Another warning: if you order the front bar from the group buy list, BNR27(Z) you are likely to get a bar which is exactly the same as the one you have (22mm). You need to specify BNR27 X or XX (Z for adjustable) and that it needs to be 24mm for a Stagea. These are made to order. I went to a lot of trouble (and expense) to get one sent from Selby to me in NZ only to destroy it in a crash a few months later. I won't bother replacing it though as it seemed to make little difference and an even heavier one could induce understeer. Luckily the rear one fitted and was a worthwhile upgrade.