KiwiRS4T

The intercooler can handle the most your stock turbo can make safely (10 -12psi) but if you have an S1 it would be a good idea to upgrade to an S2 (R34GTT) smic. Also get a high flow panel filter for your stock air box. I don't really know the answer to the exhaust question but I would not recommend running 10 -12 psi through your stock exhaust. You could probably by-pass your solenoid to run 7-8 psi all the time but a 3in turbo back exhaust (no cat or gutted cat) should really be your first mod. As TJ says that will give you more boost straight away.

You need two bearings - the release (thrust) bearing and the spigot bearing (or bush...not sure in a Stagea) in the end of the crankshaft. Whether you get the flywheel skimmed should not be dependant on the time available but on its condition - you need to do it if its scored otherwise not necessary.

There is a huge difference in $$$ between just making 200awkw (in itself quite hard to do in an awd auto Stagea compared to the 2wd manual skylines in the forced induction thread in the skyline section) and making more than 210 - 220 To maximise the stock turbo with minimum spend you need full 3in turbo back exhaust, nistune chip for tuning (and to remove 180km/hr limit), highflow filter in your stock air box, upgraded fuel pump (both to ensure you don't run out of fuel at high revs and to maximise your stock injectors), an aftermarket adjustable fpr (again to maximise your stock injectors - not needed if you are getting bigger injectors) and an electronic boost controller. Your S2 smic will be fine at this level (in fact up to 210awkw or more) but the final element is ... a really good tune from a really good tuner. With all this you may just make 200awkw. [if you make it to this level you will be going quite quickly and should be looking to spend some money on brakes and suspension before you look for more power]. The next stage will cost a few more thousands of dollars to get and support more boost: a better turbo (GCG highflow, GT3076 for example) bigger injectors, a Z32 AFM and by now you should be looking for a fmic.

In my opinion the turbosmart boost T is a waste of money. You can acheive the same result for free by simply by-passing the solenoid as per the "ten minute boost increase" method and vary boost by altering the size of the bleed restrictor. I had a needle valve in there for a while before i got my electronic boost controller but you can use welding tips or just redrill the restrictor til you get the level of boost you want. I assume you have the boost T plumbed correctly but if you want to se if your turbo is boosting you can just pull the hose off the actuator and very carefully accelerate watching your boost level. You will be impressed by the difference a good electronic boost controller makes: quicker boost build and hold it for longer at your chosen value. Check your boost guage by running another one at the same time - just run the pipe through the door temporarily. And work out what your stock guage is reading and convert it to bar, the proper measure, or psi rather than "1/4 travel".

I managed to find a set of GTT rear calipers to go with my fronts but had no rotors. Got brand new rear rotors for $80 a pair so I guess fronts would be not much more. If you are paying much more in Aus then let me know if anyone wants a set mailed over ( the postage would not be worth it for a few dollars difference but if you are paying over $100 ea for GTT rotors you may want to consider importing some from here!

All I know is the S2 has as standard one almost as big as the aftermarket one i used for the S1. See picture for small S1 on left and aftermarket on right:

For my inline front filter i have a ryco z200 but they make a range of generic filters with and without bends and in a variety of diameters so you should be able to find something at your local autoparts shop.

No... to quote from the AAC valve tutorial http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...l&hl=idling (the links to the photos in this tutorial do not work but the photos have been added to the end of the tutorial): "Note, this is not the valve which controls cold start revs on idle, that valve is connected inline on the same intake pipe as the AAC valve but is situated under the intake plenum on RB25's"Here is the tutorial for cold start air reg (this is based on R32 - positioning may be different on RB25 ...under intake plenum? haven't tried to locate it myself yet but will have to do so soon...): http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/ColdAirReg.htm

Dunno but I will be cleaning mine soon and don't have a new gasket. Also check cold start air regulator. Saw a tutorial on cleaning/ adjusting that because it could give idle problems. Article also suggested blocking it off. Will try to find the link

Speedster still a hoon at 79 Melbourne - A 79 year old man driving his 1999 Mitsubishi Magna sedan at 160km/hr in a 100km/hr zone has become Vitoria's oldest hoon. Police said they first spotted him near Kalkee, in Victoria's northwest on Wednesday afternoon and finally pulled him over 23km later [what do Victoria cops drive that it took them 23km to catch him?!] His car will be seized under the hoon law and he will be charged with driving at a dangerous speed and exceeding the speed limit, police said. They are concerned that this is not an isolated incident. In January they nabbed a 78 year old [Dale?] in a hotted up Nissan Pulsar driving at 170k/hr in a 100km/hr zone, in Warragul, east of Melbourne. Police have impounded 1768 vehicles this year and 8345 since the new legislation was introduced three years ago. -AAP [Thought I was an old hoon but as a professional (truck) driver I have to save these kinds of speeds for the track]

Part of the reason for the auto fluid going through the radiator is that helps bring the auto up to optimum operating temp more quickly esp for short trips. . In NZ i just go to radiator shop and they pick out a generic core from their supplier with the same fittings but thicker, delivered same day.

Hey Simon i have beeen waiting for my new computer to install the "fast" discs. Could you check out my vin (if this is it): WGNC34 - 003203I have twin sunroofs (which i don't want) but wonder if I also have the LSD ? I do also have the heated windscreen. thanks Bob

Also check ecu. Most common ecu for S1 is OV300 with less common 301 or 310 but I have heard suggestions that some S1 non neo have had the S2 type computer. BTW n/a cars (rare in Aus I know) got the neo engine in the later S1 cars ... I used to have a 1997 n/a neo engined S1.

You don't need a front mount at this stage. If you are worried about it get an R34 GTT smicwhich will bolt straight in with no changes to piping and will be good for at least 200AWKW.

Bypassing your solenoid (better than earthing it). You can drill out the restrictor to get more boost still - see post #40: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja....html&st=20

Well my auto Stagea (RB25DET) ran 5lb and 7lb. Three suggestions for you: 1. [no cost solution] You can get 10psi by bypassing the solenoid altogether. Follow SK's directions and bore out the restrictor and you can get any psi you want (see post #40): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja....html&st=20 or 2. [low cost solution $30 or so] get an RB20 actuator (they run 10psi) and or 3. [From $200 - jaycar eibc plus hand controller like mine or up to $1000 for flash big name one] Get an electronic boost controller (not a bleed type which will be little better than #1 above) to build boost more quickly and hold it longer.

It is possible to beef up the auto box to handle higher power. BTW you haven't confirmed whether you have an S1 Stagea or S2 (neo engine, tiptronic). I am assuming you have an S1. The computer that controls the auto is inside the main ecu. I have just been through this with my car. My engine management functions are now carried out by a chipped RB32 ecu but it has had to be piggybacked onto the stock ecu - a wiring nightmare which is beyond my abilities and i wouldn't recommend it. I would strongly recommend the Greddy E-manage or it may be possible to fit a complete S2 ecu and loom in which case it can be fitted with a Nistune chip. Another member has kindly translated the S1 pinout from the Japanese manual and if you send me an email address I can send it to you as an attachment. [email protected]

If you really want 373kw down the track you'll be converting to a manual gearbox which will open up the possibilities for an ecu. In the meantime i suggest you get a greddy e-manage or an safc and sitc which will do you til then and you can sell them when you want to upgrade.

Here is a picture of the bleed valve - mine has a little tag on it that says "never open when hot(courtesy of SK):

Good point! Its not too hard to get a 2wd manual skyline up to 200kw atw but to get my S1 Stagea over the 200AWKW mark (due for dyno in about 3 weeks hope to get 200 -220awkw) has cost me over $6000 not counting suspension and brakes. I hate to think what Tangles has spent to get over 240AWKW but I am guessing it would not be less than $10k!!

If you have an awd auto you will be losing about 70kw in driveline losses. You cannot easily tune your engine unless you have a series 2 stagea. For series 1 i would suggest a Greddy E-manage would be the best way to get some tunability. The next best alternative would be to get an Apexi SITC and SAFC (try ebay). BTW an electronic boost controller will build boost quicker than a bleed valve and hold it better. The fmic will not be giving you any more power at this level. If you have not already get a highflow panel filter for your standard airbox. You need a 3in turbo back exhaust ( I have a split dump, some people prefer a bellmouth). Then if you have access to a four wheel drive dyno you could advance the base timing by means of the cas ( while using some reliable knock detection gear). This will give a little more zip and show up your air/fuel problems. You should get an SAFC at least or go straight for the Greddy E-Manage. Good luck! ps there is heaps of information here. Read the DIY section above - read all of the Jaycar thread one quiet night - even if you don't get the Jaycar gear you will learn a lot!

There are six agents listed on the Nistune website: http://www.nistune.com/If you don't hear from an WA Stagea owners you could try the general skyline forums to see if anyone has used any of them.

Jaycar sell a speedo correction device - KC5435 (about $60) will adjust up to 95% but of course you have to build it first.

Well there's the "sock"on the bottom of the pickup. Depending on the age and mileage of the car you may as well make a job of it and buy a new pump c/w sock.

What kind of software are you using? Have a look at this site for some clues: http://www.blazt.biz/index.php