KiwiRS4T

Cops in NZ are on a ticket quota so pick on easy targets such as imports (especially anything with a big intercooler hanging out front even though they re not illegal) sports cars and motorbikes. However I always stop at stop signs even when it is clearly unnecessary in case there is a cop hiding in the vicinity ( as they do ). That's one of the reasons why I like my Stagea to look stock as ... in fact its one of the reasons I have a Stagea and not a Skyline.

I think your stock master cylinder set-up will be ok but haven't done mine yet so not speaking from experience.

Not too many 2wd dyno shops are experts on the Atessa system. I won't put my car on a 2wd dyno.

I have replaced the Jaycar link with one that works. Yes it was another SK project but no the Jaycar boost controller has only 4 connections: power supply, earth, signal from any injector and output to solenoid. You may be think of one of SK's other projects - DFA, tech edge etc.

As the OP was last heard of in May one presumes he has already made a choice but for the record I have read all three of the above links and I am still not convinced that the R34 smic is not a good choice for someone with a stock turbo. If you do repeated runs on a dyno with none of the fan air directed through the side vent then I am sure that the SMIC will get hot but I have used a trust smic on the track (around 200awkw) and when I pull in the inlet pipe (coming out of the intercooler) is cold. I am now running 16psi with a GCG highflow (around 220 -230awkw - will dyno again soon) and have a Nismo smic which is not much bigger than the R34 and it is now probably marginal. I am looking for an ARC smic and that will do me. I have slightly enlarged the vent and have made sure that the shroud directs all of the air that comes through the vent through the smic core. At this level and above I am sure that there will be benefits from a front mount but I don't want one. But with the standard turbo an R34 smic will definitely be adequate - you can pick them up here for $50 - $80 and there is no installation cost and no attention from the cops.

As above - sounds like lack of fuel. Whatever it is it sounds like it has the potential to kill your engine. Do you have an aftermarket ecu (pref with datalogging capability)? How are you tuning it? Sounds Like a session on the dyno would be a good investment.

I use and recommend the Jaycar boost controller. It uses a solenoid (actually I used the stock R33 solenoid but any normally closed one will do) to regulate boost to the actuator (i.e. it is not a bleed type controller). It uses a signal from the injectors to regulate the solenoid and the realtionship between the duty cycle of the injector and the duty cycle of the solenoid is determined by a controller which is entirely user adjustable. I believe this method of control is unique to the Jaycar although someone may correct me if they know of another. With this system NO BOOST AT ALL gets to the actuator (apparently unlike your AVCR) until you want it to. With my ball bearing GCG highflow turbo boost build is really rapid to my max of 1 bar (about 16psi which I have chosen as the max because i have stock internals) and it can hold it for as long as the turbo can make it. I will soon have a dyno chart where i can show the boost curve (well more of a flat line with a short steep approach and some tailing off at the top). the only catch is the Jaycar has to be assembled although you could possibly get someone to build it for you ( I had to) but the kit for the unit and the hand controller come to about $150. If you are interested send me an email to [email protected] and I will send some information as an attachment although there is a 50 page thread here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja...tro-t61207.html

Well where i live (not in WA) there are people who put new universals in driveshafts and balance them. Some universals are allegedly "not serviceable" i.e. they do not have circlips holding them together but these can be machined out by a competent shop and new ones put in. I am sure you can find someone like that not too far away. Also do not drive too long (or hard) with the driveshaft out - you will damage the transfer box.

RB25DET pink sticker AFM c/w plug appears to be in perfect cond AU$100 posted. 370cc side feed injectors set of 6 AU$120 posted. These items were working fine on my Stagea - removed as upgrading. PM or email [email protected]

I believe R34 GTT are a straight fit (they better be I've just bought some). If you get stuck you can have my old stock S1 rotors for the price of the postage when I fit mine in a few days. Are you not able to get yours skimmed?

Best bang for buck: Nistune in stock ecu. Best aftermarket: Vipec (Link).

I replaced my stocker with a Walbro. There was a suggestion that it wasn't performing and someone lent me a GTR pump to try but it was not very different (was better though) so I swapped it back. I'm quite good at changing pumps now! (Tip - make sure you run down your tank to almost empty before changing pumps!) If you have not already good idea to get full battery voltage to pump (tutorial in "how to" dept in Skyline section).

Still wanted. This post is disappearing into the back pages so hard for me to check on. If you come across it and have some pads please PM me or email [email protected]

I sold a Stagea subframe to a guy wanting a wider track in a 180 (is that an S15?) so I would guess that an S15 would be no good. I suspect that any other Stagea subframe would do (pay to have a look and take a few measurements) but still vote for the weld/repair.

Unless you can get Stagea specific (wagon) springs you are better to stick with the stockers. Most cost effective handling mod is a (much) heavier rear sway bar. Bilsteins (sometimes sold under Nismo brand) will give handling improvement and can also be used to regulate height.

If your mileage is anywhere near genuine just get a heavier rear sway bar and save up for the Bilsteins. Stock springs will be OK.

Do a search in the skyline section - there is a guy there makes them to order - look very neat.

I have an S1 clock which i presume is the same as the S2 AU$30 posted.

The subframe lock kit (pineapples) helped get the power down earlier coming out of a tight bend on the track but on the road they are a pain as they negate the purpose of the bushes and result in increased road noise and transmit diff whine through the body. The instructions suggest you could install the pineapples for a track day and then take them out afterwards but i can't be stuffed doing that and i doubt many people would bother.

Have you got some old R34 GTT brake pads or are you about to get new ones? I am after a set of old pads to get some custom linings. Would expect to payfreight to Auckland NZ and a few bucks for your trouble! Anyone got some (now or soon)??

Why don't manuals have a synchro button if they have attessa (i.e. are not 2wd)?

If it were mine i would be taking this as a sign to get rid of the hicas but if you want to retain the hicas I would be looking to get it repaired. there may be a mobile service in your town or it should be cheaper to transport the car to the welder and back than pay $1500 for a secondhand subframe. Still worthwhile to get the Bilsteins though.

B heated strip along bottom of windscreen to unstick frozen wipers C synchro button locks awd into 50/50 front rear for take off - gets overridden by computer once you get speed up. D heated rear screen and on my car heats the side mirrors (may be disabled by compliance in Aus) G snow button - locks out 1st so you take off in 2nd English language versions of the handbook (but not the workshop manual) are available for about $40. You can have mine for $30 posted.

S1 and S2 are the same. Front toe in is adjustable and may help. I recommend the adjustable castor arms. Camber kits are more expensive as are the adjustable bushes KCA348.

You can get replacement eccentric bushes which will give you a small amount of adjustment but i have adjustable Cusco rods which second hand cost about the same as the bushes but give heaps of adjustment. I think they were R33 ones but there are many brands/types available. PS if you just want to replace your bent stocker I still have mine you could have for the postage (about $20) but I would recommend getting adjustables.