KiwiRS4T

Sounds like a good idea. I hate it when i know the answer to my question is somewhere in this website but often even after ages of searching I can't find it. You see the same question being asked time and time again and you can't really blame people as i have read the brake, suspension and Jaycar threads from end to end and still can't always find what I want. There was an attempt in the DIY section to list things but a proper well maintained reference site would be great. I can't help with its construction (IT deficient) but would help with filling gaps in information. It would be particularly useful for brakes and suspension (what fits which model).

The Nistune is not equivalent to the Jaycar DFA. The Jaycar DFA alters the airfuel ratios in the same way that the Apexi SAFC does. But the Nistune is a chip which sits inside the stock ecu and enables most of the important parameters to be adjusted - airfuel ratios, timing, rev limits, max speed (gets rid of the 180km/hr limit) etc - so for less than the price of a DFA and SITC it does more. However it is not available for the S1 and I suspect will not be for some time to come. Re Duncan's suggestion of the S2 ecu in a S1 - by the time my tuner had finished piggybacking an R32 ecu on my S1 he too was wondering whether it would have been easier to get a s2 loom and ecu. I look forward to seeing someone try it!

Looks like you have lot of the right gear there. Is that 190kw 2wd or awkw? I don't know what that turbo is rated at but I would guess that it is capabable of a lot more. maybe you could do with a better boost controller to give you a steady 16psi. Do you know how close your stock injectors are to max duty ? The afrs are very rich. With a better tune and more boost you will easily be able to do better than 200awkw. With bigger injectors, a Z32 afm and a really good tune you should be able to hit 230 -240awkw.

If your 99 Stagea is a S2 then Nistune will do the job. If S1 then Emanage Ultimate unless you want to be the first to wire in a Vipec/Link computer!

Jaycar do a thermoswitch kit for about $40 (KC-5381 + box UB3) but I guess it would only be worth building if the alternatives were twice the price or more.

Running 1 bar around 16psi with highflow (pipercross) filter in standard airbox. BTW here is an excellent tech article on intercoolers from ARE (an Australian manufacturer) - they seem to really know their stuff on air/air, air/water and dry ice intercoolers! http://www.are.com.au/techtalk/intecoolersMR.htm

Yep that's the one. Take some hose with you to get the right size fittings. Actually you don't see my needle valve at first - it is pretty much hidden under the snorkel.

Yep saw the super drager one at $650 and thought it was too dear so got one made up at an exhaust shop and ended up costing over $800! (Another SDU member has since bought the super drager) Apart from the one in the link above other importers will be able to order a Stagea specific exhaust for you.

Get under the car and see if you can push the exhaust to hit anywhere and if you can it probably is hitting. Try bending or adjusting the hangers or see if the rubber mounts are flogged out or missing.

I presume you have it out of the car so have a look at the brushes and see if a new set of brushes and cleaning up the commutator with emery tape or sand paper and then cleaning out the gaps between the segments will get it going (you should be able to test it without reinstalling it).

I am using a brass needle valve available from enginering supply stores (You will need a male/male one or if it is a M/F or female/female you will need one or two "tails" to push the hoses on). It allows for very fine adjustments. However it is not very "stealth" and I plan to replace it with a simple restrictor. Some people use the ends of gas welding tips because they have a known size but i am probably going to fill one end of the T with solder and drill it out a bit at a time til its right.

If you are short of funds i wouldn't be mixing tyre types - just put 45 -50 psi in the tyres you have now and drive within their limits. Look for a set of second hand slicks preferably on a set of rims and buy them when you can afford them.

Here's a water to air system: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-241569236.htm

I bought a set of hoses from Maltech for an RS4 but the front hoses were a little short - they worked but couldn't be secured the same way as the old ones. If anyone has an old set to send them they could make their Stagea set a better match. (Have a local source now myself).

If the person changing your cam belt marked the cas and put it back in exactly the same position your timing will still be out bacasue of the new belt. 'Tell your tuner that your cambelt has been changed and you probably just need 5min of his time to check the base timing - not a 2 hour tune, and he should be able to fit you in (if not get another tuner).

Just got an answer back fom the seller: "Its the same size as the stock cooler except thicker. This allows it to bolt straight on to the R33. New and used are the same size" Not a very good answer as I asked for the height, width and thickness. However i would guess that its 75mm thick and probably more efficient than the stocker so an upgrade for the S1 Stagea but not for the S2.

Well spotted! I saw them a few days ago and have sent a question to the seller about the dimensions of the R33 ones. The R32 will not easily fit - the pipes are wrong and it will probably be quite small but the R33 one could be OK although i suspect it will be 75mm thick rather than the 105mm of the R34 and WGNC34. Still, a good sign - they do exist!!

Your front camber is not that far off. Cusco arms can seize up too. I put mine in the vise and unwound them completely and cleaned up the threads.

Well done. Had you taken to a garage you would probably be the proud owner of a recond starter motor and a $300+ bill!!

I'm using cheap no brand ones on the back. (These ones: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-241703763.htm ) people who sell Cusco will tell you that the cheap ones will break, welding is no good etc but there are plenty of cheap ones being tracked and not breaking. i guess you should have a good look at them when they arrive and decide whether they look sturdy enough. I was lucky to get second hand cusco castor arms for the front for $150.00 (like this ...although i don't know if R32GTR will fit Stagea?? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-241183447.htm

LED ones look good. Any idea of price? Being Dolphin I presume they cost an arm and a leg!!?? From which site can you buy them?

Hi Dave - I'm getting a catch can for my Stagea. I am relocating the battery to the boot (opposite side to the attessa reservoir) to make room for a decent sized catch can. Will post up photos in the Stagea section when done!

Will your lights work in my RS4T or do I need anything extra such as transformers?

Any M35 drivers prepared to ditch the awd to get a 6 speed manual should have a look at this V6 into R34 build: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Vq...tt-t283253.html He starts off planning to stick an RB25DET box in it but now has a 6 speed 350z box. An interesting project even if you don't plan to do the same!