KiwiRS4T

Well my solution is to use the stock airbox and snorkel (with a highflow panel filter) together with the scoop on my air diverter plate and for extra flow a collecter behind the left hand headlight piped into the top of the airbox. Thta's what I had on my last RS4 but so far I haven't added the extra collecter - just relying on the stock airbox, snorkel and air diverter scoop.

Sorry - thought you wanted internal wiring diagram. Here is a translated S1 pinout supplied by another member (must try and find out who so I can credit him properly).WGC34_Series_1___STAGEA_RB25DET_Auto_ECU_Pinout_translated.xls

Only the old stand-by - keep the speed down. Have plenty of music and food and try not to put anything on the roof. Either use the aircond or have the windows open - not both!

Yep that's pretty normal. Next get a front pipe with split dump. The $64,000 question is do you have a S1 or a S2? If you have a S2 then after the full exhaust get Nistune fitted to your ecu or if a S1 then something like a chipped R32 or other ecu. Then with a good tune you'll be much closer to 200awkw.If a S1 then get an S2 (R34) smic - forget the front mount til you have a better turbo.

On the S1: the little button on the side of the Gear selector. As you push it in and out you will see a little light on the dash saying "overdrive off" going on and off. If you turn the overdrive off you not only lose top gear but also freewheeling ...so useful for slowing you down hill when towing etc.I don't know if the S2 has this feature?

If you follow the top hose from the radiator down to the place where it joins the block you will see two sensors - the one with two wires goes to the ecu and the one with one wire goes to the temp guage. You could try swapping the ecu with someone else but better still if you have a Series 2 neo then get a nistune fitted and get a tune from a good tuner.

My solution (done by an electronics whizz, not by me) was a chipped R32 ecu copgybacked onto my OV300. The R32 does all the engine management and the old ecu runs the auto and the vct. At first the auto didn't work but Andy just kept making more connections til it did. A very time consuming solution and not really recommended. Next my auto starting playing up so i got a GTR box and for a total of about $2000 parts and labour i now have a manual so the ecu possibilities are opened wide !

I'm in Auckland so not much use but try a post in "General Performance" on the SDU website http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/ and one of the Wellington guys with an Atessa equipped car (probably a GTR or GTS-4) might be able to help you.

Tried this today as i was changing my wheels anyway. Jacked up the rear, had a piece of 100x50 (4x2 to you) in front of the front wheels to stop the car rolling away, eased the clutch pedal up and gave it a little gas and it tried to climb over the timber (although I already knew the 4wd was working). But yes - first take the car back to the workshop that had it last!

I agree with Chris on this - there are specialists who do cvs all day and they will do it a lot quicker than you will and its worth the money! Fortunately you will not have any fronts to do so a big saving there.

On the Stagea there are three sockets just by the battery which relate to the auto. These must be wired back to the ecu (the auto ecu is inside the main ecu) through the loom. There is a smaller loom that loooks a bit like one of yours that goes back to the auto trans and has plugs which go into the sockets by the battery. One of these (I'll try to have a look in the morning which one it is) is for the circuit that makes it impossible to start when the auto is in gear and when you convert to manual you have to short this socket out. There may be a Stagea owner near you who could show you what they look like. Of course you could try to do this at the ecu but I can't tell from the pinouts i have which one you need.

If you are using the Stagea ecu (in order to run the vct) then Dave could be right but you will not have the socket to put the plug in and short out. However you must have done a major wiring job already as the Stagea ecu wouldn't have fitted the R32 ecu plug. What ecu are you using?

Not really viable.

Dale i don't know why you would assume that my definition of "decent downforce on the tow bar" would be an excessive downforce. Perhaps I should have said an "adequate" downforce which would be more than a 49/51 front /rear bias. When i towed my w/off Stagea 400km back to Auckland on a two axle trailer it had to be loaded backwards so that the engine meant there was too much weight to the rear and it got quite exciting anything over 90km/hr! And Daniel I think the S2 trans cooler should be OK if its not a stinking hot day with a heap of mountain ranges to climb!

Should be a piece of cake. If you have the S1 get an aftermarket trans cooler (ref the thread in the DIY section). Reverse flush your radiator or if it looks dodgy get it serviced at a radiator shop (they will remove the top and bottom tanks and clean it out thoroughly - if they say you need a new core or top tank then do that). Make sure you have plenty left on your brake pads. Think about changing the brake fluid if you don't know when it was last done (probably never) - I use Motul RBF600. Unfortunately the electronic brake controller is unlikely to be compatible with your rental trailer but plenty of people are towing cars on trailers behind their Stags. Make sure you get enough weight forward on the trailer to have a decent downforce on the tow bar to minimise fishtailing. Check the speed limits for towing a trailer. Try and put heavy items in the car (in the middle if you have the back seat folded down). Carry some petrol, small amounts of oil and brake fluid and some water (for you and the car!). Oh and raise all your tyre pressures a little and check the spare!

Yep that guide is from the "how to " section in the skyline part of this forum. Ther's another guide there as well. While you've got them out carefully examine the coils for evidence of arcing.

No the main point of the heat exchanger in the radiator is to warm the trans fluid up to optimum operating temp.

Try replacing the stock (plumbed back) bov to se if that eliminates the problem. have you replaced your plugs lately? (With say NGK BCPR6ES gapped to 0.8mm).

I can only speak authoritatively about the C34 although I believe its the same for the M35: Snow mode cuts out first gear. I have used it for a while to try to get better economy but got bored with it! Whatever you do to lock the Atessa has no effect once you get some speed up (I am not sure exctly it may be as low as 30 km/hr) and then the Atessa computer takes over again so I don't see any harm can come from leaving it in snow mode (and I am not even sure that it affects the atessa anyway).

Remove the front driveshaft AND pull the 4wd fuse or better still just close your eyes and hold your breath until the feeling goes away! There are exhausting/exhaustive threads on it in the DIY section above.

And the 19mm bar is hollow versus the new solid ones so it is a big jump but I am running the 22mm bar and was wondering about 24mm - I can't see any problem really. BTW I have not bothered replacing my beefed up front bar as it didn't seem to make any noticeable improvement.

To get to the higher figure you may need an uprated afm.

Assuming that your exhaust is 3in the main ingredient is a big turbo such as GT 3076 (or even a GCG highflow) and you should get over 240awkw. You could save money by getting a nistune instead of the PFC and spending the money on the turbo! (Oh and get a boost controller instead of the radiator).

Dunno about S2 but I have installed R34 GTT calipers and rotors using the original lines and master cylinder and everything is fine. Had to trim the backing plate on the rears and pull the bits out of the calipers to convert to banjo fittings. My 17in road wheels fit fine but need the 25mm spacers on the front to enable my 16in track wheels to clear the R34GTT calipers. I believe some calipers (R33 GTST?) will fit with a modification to allow for different mounting bolts but the R34GTT had the same mounting bolts as my S1

As above. New ones best. I paid someone megabucks to pull my dash out and put it back although there is a thread somewhere that suggests you don't have to but in any case it is not a job you want to do twice. I think my new core (generic core from Natrad) was about $70.