KiwiRS4T

Blew my engine (well it still runs but with a few broken rings huge blowby etc) and considered the options. Thought about a stock recondition like Dave - great for peace of mind knowing everything is new - and should be able to handle up to 270awkw comfortably. However looking for more power next year. Full recond with forged components, balanced etc heading towards $10k. Second hand RB26 too much of a gamble and still need money spent to get more than the 245kw i had with the present RB25 so now going with an RB30. Should be good for around 270kw (stage 1 with the GCG turbo) and will stand around 300 to 350 with a bigger turbo etc later next year. Well that's the theory...will let you know how it pans out.

If you don't need this product don't buy it. If you do get rings and bearings instead.

Spammers are the scum of the earth stuffing up the internet. I see one has just been fined $21million. Hope they catch up with Tololo soon!

There are plenty of parts available in NZ - a few people have done the R34 front conversion, there is a Stagea kit on trade Me at the moment and there are people in Manukau City, Waitakere and Hamilton at least that i know of who do body kits.

You can add a turbo to the neo engine but if you build up an RB30 block out of a VL you can drop your head on it and then turbo that. What city are you in?

Mine work on both sides. They come on when I turn on the rear window demister so I guess that's what you should connect to.

NB the boost cut is there to protect your engine. Its only safe to disable if you have an aftermarket ecu, nistune, safc or such like to tune your afrs and you have done so on a dyno with a wideband meter.

As above . I've been using it for years on my RS4 - should be ok for 260: Front Before Target Caster Left positive 6 degrees Right positive 5.75 degrees Camber Left 1.0 degree negative Right 1.0 degree negative Toe in Left zero Right zero Rear Camber Left negative 0.5 degrees Right negative 0.5 degrees Toe in Left minus 2mm Right minus 2mm

Dry filters are meant to be replaced - you can shake out loose dirt or give it a blast with an airgun but otherwise you need a new one. (bit confusing ...your picture shows a paper type filter??!!)

Strange indeed. Your pin numbers are as per the S1 pinout that I have. Also strange because the only circuit you are breaking is the one to the boost solenoid - you are only tapping into the other ones. In the s1 there is an overdrive on/off switch but i believe the s2 doesn't have that? I've just noticed that (on my chart at least) pin 104 is directly above (well two places above)) pin 120 lockup solenoid valve control signal. If you have your IEBC connected you can with ignition on engine off, by turning it to "view" and turning up the output signal, listen to your solenoid buzzing or clicking so that would confirm that you have the correct pin 104.

Getting there slowly. Now at 245rwkw. had hoped for more since it was on a 2wd dyno but I am assured that this one reads lower than the 4wd one I was on last time. Will know for sure on Monday as i have a track day at Hampton Downs circuit. Changes since the last time - now with cooling pro stealth front mount, R33 GTR manual box and chopped the middle muffler out of the exhaust ....otherwise mods as per my sig below. Tuner doesn't quite have the hang of adjusting the IEBC yet but I am getting another boost solenoid and will try to be there for the next tune.

Order of mods: Coils when and if you need them - still running stockers in mine Exhaust first Replacing your original fuel pump (preferably with something better) is cheap insurance. Nistune next so that you can get the most value from exhaust and each subsequent mod. Then save for a turbo/highflow - you don't really need injectors or front mount before you upgrade the turbo. Front mount injectors and afm (quality tune can make a huge difference - get someone good).

For the road new brake fluid and better pads would do. For the track GTT brakes, Motul RBF600 brake fluid and better pads ( I have Mintex M1166) would be a good start. Then a master cylinder stopper, upgraded brake lines and heat treated, slotted rotors.

Nice car. If you know what you want you can get lots of mods for little extra cost (as those trying to sell their cars will have noticed! (BTW the shocks on any ten year old car will be stuffed if they are still the original equipment)

Mine is a Walbro GSS341 but if you ring around you can get them with a nissan fitting kit. the Bosch is 040 or 044 I can't remember which is the in-tank version but have a read in the skyline setion for the pros and cons of different pumps.

If you are going to the trouble of changing your fuel pump you may as well put a better one in e.g. GTR pump or brand new Walbro or Bosch. I would imagine a brand new stocker from Nissan would be just as expensive anyway. p.s. and don't wait for it to die. If it is not up to par you could be running lean at full power and could damage your motor or alternatively it could die and strand you at an inconvenient time or place. Replace it now.

The obvious question is "why?" Do you not already have a manual box? What's wrong with it that can't be economically repaired? Just rereading your post ... is it just so you can change the type of clutch?

After I got my boost controller and highflowed turbo etc I was getting around 15 to 20 L per 100km. When I got the 550 injectors and another tune it was pretty much 20L per 100km. Most of my trips are short and I like to boot it as soon as it has warmed up so I was filling up at around 300km! The best economy device (and it was not intended that way) has turned out to be my new GTR 5 speed manual box. I went away for the weekend - I drive at 110km (the most you can do without getting pinged as i am a driver by trade and can't afford to lose my licence) with probably a dozen bursts up to 140 or 150 to get past traffic and a twenty minute full boost climb up a range of hills (each way) and managed 12L per 100km. I know this was on a trip but I used to get worse than 15L/100km before. So that confirms what a lot of people think - the auto sucks gas. I find that I can drive around town mostly in 4th and 5th as it will pull steadily from 1500rev/min and goes well from 2000 rev/min even though serious power comes between 4000 and 7000 rev/min. Previously at those speeds the auto would be kicking down all the time. On the other hand if you are not planning on lots more power the auto is great for city driving and if it is regularly serviced and not abused will (some people's bad luck not withstanding) perform well for years.

Ok this is for an S1 but I assume the neo is the same. If you follow the airpipe from the brake booster (the big round black thing on the opposite side of the firewall from the brake pedal) you will see that it is connected to the plenum (inlet manifold). About 55mm back towards the brake booster on the plenum from where the brake booster line goes there should be a small nipple which may be capped or may have the hose for the stock boost guage. Connect your boost guage there. Your diagram for the boost controller seems to be missing a bleed (relief) line.

Exhaust won't be doing any harm but you may have noticed an increase in boost. Do you know what state your plugs are in? A new set of coppers might fix the problem. Ideally your next mod should be some means of tuning the engine.

If yours is awd the S1 specs above should be fine.

I presume you have read the "how to" in the DIY section by Trukboy. Its pretty spot on. Being old and decrepit I paid my workshop to do it (about $700 labour $2000 allup). The main problem is that both the auto and the manual are really heavy so if you dont have a hoist and a transmission cradle you will need to make sure you have four good reasonably high stands and a good floor jack. I would say to be safe you want three people to get the box in and out. i got an R33GTR box and was able to retain the original cross member and drive shaft. The only tricky bit I noticed was the comprehensive piping for the clutch including the damper ciruit. I ended up using another clutch pedal setup without the booster as it was a rushed job (my mechanic very kindly did the job on a Sunday night because I was booked for a track day at the new Hampton Downs circuit on the Monday) so with a heavy duty clutch it has quite a heavy pedal - not a problem when driving -only at the lights. Also the handbrake mounting point has to be welded in (I think Trukboy was kidding about the pop rivets) but you don't need the handbrake to go to work!

Well you could get a cooling pro stealth or similar Blitz item like mine: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...=1&featured The main advantage is that you can just connect it up to your existing piping. Just be aware that it is unlikely to make your car go faster until you get a bigger turbo. The 3in exhaust will improve perfomance noticeably!

You could go to a wrecker and get the original hose or go to an engineering supply store and get a short length of hose the right diameter and then either get a steel plug from the same store or if they don't have one from a plumbers supply store or just cut off a piece of solid steel pipe (maybe from an engineering shop) and stick that in the hose and secure it with a clamp.

You don't need to cut holes. If you use the factory snorkle that wil supply enough air. If you want more there is plenty getting past the lh headlight. This applies whether you use the factory airbox or put a pod on and build an airbox around it. The advantage of the stealth type fmic that quite a few of us have is that you can use the existing piping instead of cutting a hole and relocating the battery and either running piping across the top of your engine or getting a forward facing plenum.