KiwiRS4T

Yep I had a Trust smic - excellent unit thicker and more efficient than R34 one but wrecked it when I smashed up the car. For some reason the brackets didn't line up very well so it was basically hanging by the hoses and supported by the front bar support but it worked fine. Also didn't come with the shroud so i had to fabricate one myself.

Pepople have gone off the wasted spark option over here for various reasons. The other option is to isolate the dud coil or coils and get some second hand stockers. People often replace the lot when some are fine. Someone on this forum had a set of S2 coils a while back (can't remember who, sorry). I guess i'm lucky - still on original coils at 225awkw at 16 psi and up to 7200rev/min.

Stagea is made to run on 100 octane. If you put a lower grade fuel in the ecu will adjust to avoid detonation but performance will suffer. Just remember when you get back to 98 to reset the ecu (disconnect it from power) so that it can adjust to the better fuel.

Stagea is made to run on 100 octane. If you put a lower grade fuel in the ecu will adjust to avoid detonation but performance will suffer. Just remember when you get back to 98 to reset the ecu (disconnect it from power) so that it can adjust to the better fuel.

I have an RS4T and I would love a 260RS but suggest the M35 for you. Do you want a reasonably fast family tourer or a hobby? I spend inordinate amounts of time and money on my RS4T and would do the same with a 260RS as bog standard they are not that quick. With the M35 you get a well appointed comfortable wagon with excellent point to point abilities and reasonable economy. Fit a heavier rear sway bar, some Bilsteins when your stock shocks have worn out, some quality tyres (keep the stock rims - paper thin tyres on oversized wheels do not make for a good ride) and when it becomes available tune your stock ecu for maximum efficiency and you will have a great car.

Don't know that its making any more power. Mine is an auto awd so the flywheel power will be only slightly less and i am still using a smic - was making 240awkw but detuned when intercooler started getting hot on dyno.

You can see my boost chart for a stock R33 turbo highflowed by GCG here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...html&st=320 (post 333) You will see boost build is much quicker - 10psi by 2750 and 16 psi by 3,500. Some of this could be due to the ball bearings of the GCG and some due to my Jaycar IEBC (which was roughly set by my tuner who hadn't seen one before - I can get a dead straight line at 16 or 17 psi).

Another 60KW is a great improvement. What mods do you have apart from the highflow filter Dave?

There was a S1 260 RS advertised in the South Island which listed an R34 rear subframe as one of the mods. I haven't seen the actual car.

What specs were used for your alignment? Here are mine: Front caster L 6deg R 5.75 Front camber L neg 1 deg R neg 1 deg Front Toe in L0 R0 total 0 Rear camber L neg 0.5 deg R neg 0.5 deg Rear toe in L -2mm R -2mm To get more caster you can get eccentric bushes but better still adjustable arms ( I think mine are GTR) ..failing that knock back the rh caster til you have a 1/4 deg less on the right than the left to allow for road camber. You may be able to reduce your neg camber with eccentric bushes as the adjustable parts are quite expensive. You should be able to reduce front toe in with the existing set up. Your rear camber is quite excessive (might be fine for the track but may cause wear problems etc on the road) and won't be fixed with bushes but adjustable rear camber arms are not too expensive. I have adjustable camber arms and wind on some more neg camber for track days and then return it to spec for the road. You should be able to reset toe in to zero. I have been using the above settings for a couple of years with no uneven wear issues.

The computer is not currently tunable although people are working on it! If your engine is pinging you could be damaging it. Have you changed your fuel filter? Maybe you need a fuel pump. Try to get your fuel pressure tested or ideally stick it on a dyno and get your air/fuel ratios checked to make sure it isn't running too lean anywhere.

Very nice power - what boost are you running every day on the road?

Yep I got a chipped R32 ecu piggybacked on to my OV300 - what a mission! Easier would be the GReddy E-manage or a wire-in version of the Vipec (Link G4 extreme).

You need the correct RS232 cable . People have tried various computer cables with a similar plug but they haven't worked. Do the fine tuning of the LEDs as per the set up instructions. When you have the unit connected to the car you need to turn the car off before switching between high and low or you can cause damage. Good luck.

Get a Nistune chip for your ecu (do a search or look up their website). http://www.nistune.com/

1996 Stagea auto awd RB25DET 76mm exhaust with split dump and no cat (still a bit restrictive as very quiet) Stock turbo highflowed by GCG Walbro fuel pump wired to full battery voltage. 550 DeatschWerks injectors Z32 AFM Nismo smic (similar in size to GTT but allegedly slightly more efficient) Pipercross panel filter in stock airbox GReddy adjustable exhaust cam gear (set at 3.5 deg ret so 4 deg pretty much OK) Jaycar IEBC set at 1 bar R32 ecu chipped by X-tune and piggybacked on to stock ecu. Thanks to Joe (Joe's Mechanical Services) and Andy (X-Tune)

I'm not the expert! Z32 was an option but Andy the electronics whizz chose the R32 one. There was a heap of work involved. If I did it again I think I would go with either the Greddy E-Manage or get a wire in Link (Vipec).

Well I have finally reached the limits of my current sidemount at 225.7 AWKW. Car was making more power but smic was getting hot so current tune is the safe setting. I conclude that the GTT or s2 smic is good for about 220AWKW but you would probably see benefits from a front mount from about 200AWKW onwards (i.e. when you replace your turbo). In my case I am going to stick with the smic but I'm looking for an ARC one which should enable me to retune to 240AWKW which will do me for now. Car seems very fast now (80-120km/hr in 3 seconds flat) and I will try to get a 1/4 mile time this summer ( won't be that flash but Í am interested to know). Relevant mods (excluding the thousands I have spent on suspension and brakes): 76mm exhaust with split dump and no cat (still a bit restrictive as very quiet) Stock turbo highflowed by GCG Walbro fuel pump wired to full battery voltage. 550 DeatschWerks injectors Z32 AFM Nismo smic (similar in size to GTT but allegedly slightly more efficient) Pipercross panel filter in stock airbox GReddy adjustable exhaust cam gear (set at 3.5 deg ret so 4 deg pretty muuch OK) Jaycar IEBC set at 1 bar R32 ecu chipped by X-tune and piggybacked on to stock ecu. Thanks to Joe (Joe's Mechanical Services) and Andy (X-Tune)

On the contrary Dave the S2 seems quite clear cut: R34GTT and Stagea have the same neo engine and cams although there is not the same confidence about the S1 as yet (should be easy to check). Anyway you don't need poncams and port and polish to get to 240awkw (although it makes for a nice engine). You do need a front mount though. Just got my car back from the dyno and would have been a 240awkw car but just too much for my smic so knocked back timing etc and now have a safe 225.7awkw. Charts and details tomorrow.

Get a set of Bilsteins from someone who knows what they are doing and make sure they are valved right for your wagon. You can set your height with the Bilsteins and keep your standard springs. If you want you can change your springs later but you may find it not necessary.

Cold chisel, large hammer.

Racing radiators won't make your car go faster. To elaborate i upgraded the radiator on the car i just wrote off. In the new S1 which i have rebuilt to the same specs I am still using the stock radiator and have done two track days with no sign of overheating. If i have to replace it I will go to a radiator repair shop and buy a slightly thicker one for about $200. I wont be going to the speed shop to buy a Japanese one for $900 or even $300.

Are you using a boost controller? If not try bypassing the solenoid with the ten minute boost mod (post #40): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja....html&st=20 Or a new set of copper plugs

Why do you want to upgrade? I have been told my existing MC will cope with GTT brakes (haven't had time to fit them yet but I believe others have done it with no MC change).

I won't be much help to you being in NZ because I didn't buy a Japanese racing radiator but just got a generic National Radiators unit from my local repair shop for about $150 (he just looks in the catalogue for one with the same dimensions only thicker and with the auto fluid and rad hoses connections in the right place).