KiwiRS4T

You need spacers that have the right sized bore that are flanged or have locator rings or are hubcentric - different words for the same thing - to make sure they are centred on the hub and not just located by the wheel nuts. As well in NZ they need low volume certification - don't know the legal position in Australia. here are some examples: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-246008743.htm or http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-246616324.htm or http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-245710903.htm note that 5 x 114.3 come in different bore sizes so make sure you get the right one. I have a set of 25mm spacers on the front to make it the same track as the rear. If you are buying brand new mags you may be able to acheive this by having different offsets front and rear.

I am using Castrol Edge 10W 60 but any quality synthetic should outperform a non-synthetic.

Still for sale? PM sent.

Are you wanting to block off the airflow or retain it? If the latter there is a wide variety of mesh like material available. I know of a place in my city to get it so I imagine if you phoned around a few engineers supplies shops you should be able to find something to your liking.

What do you need to know? The auto loom starts from the three fuses in front of and under the battery and runs along the bottom of the engine. It splits into, I think, three with wiring going to the top of the box and possibly each side, can't quite remember. Some of it terminates inside the box. I sold a loom from my wrecked car and it was a mission to get out. Best done with the box removed.

Here's a set of 6 S15 480cc injectors: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/S1...-R-t290543.html Be quick - they are $350 including a rail. He is in Melbourne but this price includes postage. A set of 550's will set you back anything from at least $500 to $1000 or more so this is a good budget upgrade. (For S1 Stagea I would think but you would need to check).

Yes more castor provides greater straightline stability at high speed (downside is more stress on steering components at low speed e.g. parking). Thats why I got 2nd hand castor arms for about the same price as eccentric bushes - more adjustment for about the same money. Some Skylines specify 8 or 9deg castor... I am running 6 deg on my S1.

Hi Tony If you are talking to me i am looking to buy, not sell! Regards Bob

I would have thought that so long as everyone fronted with the money they could send the ecu's whenever (within limits of course) rather than all at once.

I am in a similar postion to Andy. I currently have R34GTT brakes on the front Of My S1 - a straightforward fit - but I have a set of R32GTR sized rotors (actually DBA4000 slotted) which are 324mm. I had a set of brackets that worked for a cefiro but they won't work on my car so I could be interested in a set of Bubba's brackets if i don't find some locally.

Any aftermarket ecu should be able to give you a good tune. The difference between them will be things like ease of use, fineness of adjustment (number of mapping points) computing power, useful life etc. A grunty top shelf ecu will be able to give a super tune - any ecu should be able to provide an adequate tune. If its giving you a crap tune then blame the tuner - in other words find another one. He should be able to make it run properly and tell you if anything is needed to make it run better - e.g. new afm, bigger injectors.

Brad sounds like he knows what he's talking about.Perhaps you could get him to make it for you unless you understand that electronic speak (I don't!). If you were planning to put your car on a dyno then they should have the proper wideband afr meter to do the settings - your guage if it is running of the stock O2 sensor won't do.

Dunno but I imagine so. the one I bought off Trade me turned out to be a BM44 - my fault for not checking - so I am still on the look out for a BM57!

The price is right but you won't know if it is doing the job correctly and safely unless you have your afrs checked with a wideband meter. If you are planning any further mods save up for a Nistune chip so that you can really tune your engine.

I am now on Castrol Edge 10W 60 on the advice of my local RB expert. I don't know how adjustment is acheived on an RB - guess its time I did mine but one or two other things to sort out first.

My S1 Stagea pinout shows pin 5 as tachometer Drive signal W/B pin 23 TPS signal R/L pin 54 MAF signal O/L no idea what L stands for

Now doing the fronts on my S1. I have a set of R34 calipers and rotors and they fit no problem - the bolts are the same just have to change the inlet on the caliper to use the banjo fitting. As it happens i saw a big brake kit after i bought the R34 stuff which gives me slightly bigger again rotors (324mm) but these are heat treated, as new, and slotted, whereas the R34 ones would have had to be skimmed and slotted, and there's a bracket which moves the R34 calipers out a touch. Brakes work fine but i have lined up a bigger m/c as above just to reduce the pedal travel.

I am looking for an ARC smic 105mm thick - so R34GTT one or Stagea WGNC34 will do it. Happy to pay postage to Auckland New Zealand. PM or email [email protected]

Good write up Phil. So you're saying the R33 (presumably turbo) has a bigger master cylinder than the S1 Stagea? We certainly have been short changed on a few components. Good to know it doesn't have to be a 34GTT mc but can be off a 33GTST.

Finally fitted my GTT rear brakes. Thanks to other people's "how tos" I bought some metal cutting blades for my angle grinder to cut the lip off the backing plate and pulled the nipple out of the inlet (although the banjo bolt was a fraction too long that way so cut a couple of threads off it). The main bolts were exactly the same as the stockers. The master cylinder is coping fine now but I'll see how it is when I get the fronts on. I am using the GTT 4 pot calipers but have brackets, to space them out for bigger rotors, which I am not sure goe with the GTT calipers so I'll see soon!

The Frozen Boost site suggests that their A/F guage can be wired to your standard O2 sensor which means that it won't be accurate enough for tuning purposes and will therefore be not worth it. Fitting the DFA is a good idea but it can only alter the AFRs and will not measure them. You will need to get it tuned with a wide band meter (time for a dyno?).

I assume they are the same as the Skyline one so look there as well. Auto boxes go for $100 or less here and torque converters are often to be found free as people convert to manual.

In case of any confusion the Link is the same as the Vipec. I believe one member has a Link (or Vipec) installed in a S2 Stagea successfully running the auto. My theory is that the wire-in version should work on an S1 but having just spent months and not a few dollars getting a chipped R32 ecu piggybacked on to mine i am waiting for someone else to be the guinea pig!

Sounds like a good idea. I hate it when i know the answer to my question is somewhere in this website but often even after ages of searching I can't find it. You see the same question being asked time and time again and you can't really blame people as i have read the brake, suspension and Jaycar threads from end to end and still can't always find what I want. There was an attempt in the DIY section to list things but a proper well maintained reference site would be great. I can't help with its construction (IT deficient) but would help with filling gaps in information. It would be particularly useful for brakes and suspension (what fits which model).