KiwiRS4T

Congratulations! Good to hear. I got an RB30 bottom end (not installed as yet) because unforged it will stand more kw than the RB25 unforged and also have more torque all round . I would guess your engine will make around 280 - 300awkw now and have the potential for much more if you choose! [would you mind PM the drive in drive out price to me? I expect mine will be a little less because I am not getting forged rods and pistons and the front facing plenum will have to wait].

Trawled through his website but he seems to have front indicators for evrything else R34, S13, S14 etc but not Stagea. He's just a couple of km down the road from me so i will go and see him tomorrow and ask him if he can get some in.

Don't know him from a bar of soap but if you haven't already got a clutch you could try this guy (post#2) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/No...ox-t298474.html

Yep doing regular track days at 1 bar boost on a high mileage motor. I guess a low mileage neo used mainly around town could use something lighter.

Yep Wolverine is spot on. I was taught by a very qualified engineer to do my running in mostly in the first couple of hours. The only top to bottom recondition that i did when I was a mechanic was on my own six cylinder Austin Healey 3000 and I ran that in (and subsequent engines that i bought) that way. Basically you want to push a lot harder than just 2 - 4500 revs. Give it heaps as they say here avoiding only labouring in too high a gear or hammering the rev limiter. Wolverine describes the process to a T in the above post.

Still got the Trust I/C ? What is the height and the width incl side tanks?

I have an S1 unit. I will weigh it tonight and get a price for postage tomorrow and take some pictures.

I had a trust smic in my Stagea but destroyed it when i wrote the car off and found a nismo one for my next stagea. the smic should support up to 230awkw (I made that with a GCG highflow) and the arc version (the 100mm thick one) will probably support about 240awkw although may need a water spray on high boost if you are in a hot climate. 280kw is acheivable with 550 injectors so stock fpr should be fine.

Thanks for the feedback guys - I will be getting a plug in and will go with the boost control as well.

Yes and yes.

I got a pair from them for my car. I am going to ask them if they can get the fronts as well.

If you run it in too gently you will just glaze the bores and it will always use oil. Can you lock it in any gear? i.e. get rid of the freewheeling? Turn the overdrive off? Then accelerate briskly (keeping the boost to a minimum) to 5 -6k revs and then lift off letting it go down to 2-3K and repeat. Watch the temp guage. Listen for any strange sounds, watch the temps and now and again look under the bonnet for any leaks etc. if there are no problems kep increasing the revs to 5, 5500, 6000, 6500 without flooring the pedal. I would do my running in in one day and then get the car back asap to get the head retorqued and change the oil and filter.

Would be surprised if S1 and S2 were different but you never know I guess. Part no on mine is 41610 OV100 No on solenoid is NIK3UL 712898

I am getting a Link/Vipec for my Stagea. Does anyone have one fitted (to any car, Stagea ...Skyline..S15) with the boost control function and if so how do they find the boost control works? Is it as good as or better than whatever they were using before? I am quite happy with my Jaycar IEBC but I can see the attraction of having one less gizmo to worry about if the Link/Vipec will do the job just as well. Any feedback most welcome!

I am getting a Link/Vipec for my Stagea. Does anyone have one fitted (to any car, Stagea ...Skyline..S15) with the boost control function and if so how do they find the boost control works? Is it as good as or better than whatever they were using before? I am quite happy with my Jaycar IEBC but I can see the attraction of having one less gizmo to worry about if the Link/Vipec will do the job just as well. Any feedback most welcome!

I have an S1 unit if you want it.

Bang for buck ...more boost is the answer. get your turbo highflowed or get a GT3076 or suchlike and a decent tune ( you will need a nistune in your ecu). that will enable you to play with the vct changeover points but I doubt you will see dramatic or any improvements from that.

I wouldn't be replacing my coils on the strength of the warning light - I would expect some concrete defficiency to make itself known first. Second hand stockers should be fine but i haven't seen any good way to test them. It should be possible to build some kind of a test rig but its beyond my electrical skills. The Yellowjackets seem to be as good as the Splitfires but the red ones are allegedly inferior.

I get a 20L synthetic atf and use it in the auto (well i used to ...got a manual now) the attessa and the power steering. Castrol Edge 10 -60 for the engine. Redline in the manual box (do some searching in the skyline forum to see which you want).

There is a thread for Stagea Dyno charts in the DIY sticky above labelled "Stagea Dyno Results" .

That's OK - this job still comes up sooner or later for most people!

What do you mean nothing on line? I got 68,000 replies including this site: http://www.apexi-usa.com/info/?id=5383 which has a downloadable instruction manual and wiring diagrams. Also try the search function on this site (SAU) - it can be a bit convoluted but you will usually find something.

RIPS do quality work - their price $5000. However have confidence that local engineers can do the job for 10 - 20% less. I need to save some money for the Link (Vipec).

RIPS sell an adapter plate for getting on for $1000 for the RB30 I believe so by all means save some money and make up your own!

Blew my engine (well it still runs but with a few broken rings huge blowby etc) and considered the options. Thought about a stock recondition like Dave - great for peace of mind knowing everything is new - and should be able to handle up to 270awkw comfortably. However looking for more power next year. Full recond with forged components, balanced etc heading towards $10k. Second hand RB26 too much of a gamble and still need money spent to get more than the 245kw i had with the present RB25 so now going with an RB30. Should be good for around 270kw (stage 1 with the GCG turbo) and will stand around 300 to 350 with a bigger turbo etc later next year. Well that's the theory...will let you know how it pans out.