KiwiRS4T

Looking forward to more dyno charts!! Please record them for posterity by posting them here (its found by going to the DIY sticky): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...html&st=380

Send me an email address and i will scan and send it to you or send me a postal address and I will mail the instructions to you so that you can copy them and send them [email protected]

Pulling the fuse is not enough on the Stagea you have to remove the front drivshaft. The Attessa is different from that on the R32 where pulling the fuse was all you had to do.

Try this Dave: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ti...Di-t189357.html

You need to pull the 4wd fuse in the fusebox next to the battery.

1. Au contraire there is already a thread entitled "Running Your Stagea In Rwd Mode, How to?" in the DIY section of the stickies at the top of this page. 2. But it is not very clear unless you read the whole thread where you will learn that for the S1 and S2 Stagea you have to (a) pull the fuse and (b) remove the front driveshaft. So yes follow Chris' directions for removing the driveshaft AND pull the 4wd fuse out of the fusebox next to the battery (after which the 4wd light should come up on the dash to indicate a fault).

If you can get a halfway decent price sell it and get a Toyota Corolla or something. In a few years when you have stopped spending money on the house you can use the equity in the house to get yourself a nice M35 again!

Tried these guys? (They're in Adelaide):http://cars.shop.ebay.com.au/Cars-Bikes-Bo...&_ckw=packs

Just looked them up on the Nengun site where they are listed as discontinued. Are these a 2nd hand pair? They are advertised as being built for comfort (4kg front and rear) as well as improving handling but they appear to be fully adjustable as to damping and ride height so I guess you should be able to make them suit your purpose. Are you going to use them front or rear and what are you going to do for the other axle?

There are two ways around this. You can tap this small hole and put a screw in it. Mark the screw when it bottoms and then wind it out and cut it off at that point and cut a slot with a hacksaw. Then screw it back in making sure that its flush (nothing protruding).The other way is to get a GTR bov. They don't have the hole but they have a different diameter return hose so you will have to make some adaptor.

Stagea comes fitted with plumbed back bov. If you want to waste your money on an atmo one Nistune should be able to compensate for the deleterious effect.

Try ringing Jaycar - they should send you the right ones by mail or may have them as a download. If you have no luck I can scan mine and send them but its a big file and I have to break it down into three or four emails.

Post up your vin no and someone may be kind enough to look it up on the FAST system The Stagea 260Rs was built by Autech from standard RS4T off the assembly line. There was a smaller number of these made as Nismo versions with more power or you may just have the RS260 intowhich someone has added the Nismo goodies.

SOLD thanks!

(Thanks mate!) SOLD SOLD SOLD

I have been running these for six months with no problem. They make no difference to the rolling radius. The problem with staggered fitment is that although you can get the rolling radius close the difference in tyre profile can cause them to behave differently. With spacers you still have the same wheels and tyres front and rear. I needed spacers to get my 16in GTR track rims to clear the GTT brakesand for my 17in road wheels it just looks better to have them the same width front and rear. You can see my car here (post 212): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ri...00#entry5021525

Whats your problem? I can't get 400 out of my tankfull!!

Pair of 25mm bolt on aluminium spacers as per below (not actual photo). Low miles, 1 careful owner. Painted stealth black. $90 posted.

Make your front track the same as the rear with these aluminium wheel spacers with locating rings. One carefull owner. Just like those in the picture (not actual photo) but painted stealth black. $90 posted. (May not be legal in some states ...up to you). )

See my thread re starter problems but if its cranking but slowly then it won't be that. Try a jump start from another car to get you going. Starter on the way out will draw excessive current ...so you need to test the battery condition, alternator output and starter draw - so that probably means a visit to an auto electrician.

Thanks for that Dennis. Started fine in my driveway ..came out of the supermarket a few minutes ago and nothing!! I'll go get a relay and some heavy cable tomorrow.

Yep tps is wired to Attessa - good luck!

Regrettably i have only seen one guy who seemed to know all about the Attessa and he was on the SDU site and seems to have disappeared. It would be great if someone had the time to do all the research, get the appropriate bits of the manual translated etc because as time goes by more and more of us (and Skyline owners) are going to have problems and to most of us its a dark mystery! (And I bet most Nissan dealers wouldn't have a clue either!)

No you have to assume this is for S1 and S2 If you look elsewhere on their site the entries for Blitz mirrors that of the Just Jap - one for the R33 and Stagea 96 - 01 (i.e. S1 and S2) and another for R34 Skyline. Neither Blitz nor Just Jap list the Stagea with their R34 front pipes. If its not a perfect fit for the S2 Stagea you have to assume that its a better fit than the R34 Skyline one (the R34 has a shorter wheelbase than the R33 so it is quite conceivable).

After visiting friends went to jump in the car and roar off but on turning the key nothing! Luckily now manual (excuse the smugness) I was able to roll down the drive and bump start it. Got the car home and saw that the old "stick a screwdiver across the solenoid" was rather easier said than done and after getting under the car was not looking forward to pulling the starter out. The switch wire to the solenoid has a black plastic holder on the end and it seemed a bit floppy so I pulled it off and put another wire on the solenoid and touched the other end to the battery - bingo! So it wasn't the starter but somewhere in the switch circuit or the ignition switch. Hopefully, I cut the terminal off the end of the switch wire and put a new one on. Problem solved. I was lucky this time but moral of the story is if you're not getting a click when you turn the key stick a wire on the solenoid switch terminal and apply power to isolate the fault: switch circuit or solenoid/starter.