KiwiRS4T

Can't suggest a shop but can recommend you get some better quality pads and replace fluid with Motul RBF600. If you are not a driver who stands on their brakes all the time and not intending track days then that and new stock rotors should be fine.

No but maybe you can get your current ones regassed (unless they are missing/damaged)!!??

Have had good door to door service from these people: http://www.interparcel.com.au/

See if you can swap out a TPS with someone else. Is there someone near you with a consult cable who can look at all the inputs from the various sensors? The Stagea manual has all the correct values. Actually my car has a mystery starting problem where it sometimes won't start unless i pull the lead off the temp sensor for the ecu ( I have replaced the sensor twice). I figure a new engine and ecu should fix it so I am not worrying about it at present. if you really are desperate I would biff the Mines ecu and get a nistune chip and take it to a good tuner.

If this is what you're after let me know asap. Send me your name, street address (not PO Box) and contact phone number and I'll put it in the post today. Should take two or three days.

I've got one. I'll photograph it in the morning and post it up so that you can check its what you want. If you don't get a closer option I can post it to you for around $20 - $25 - I'll have to check.

It is not necessarily the case that you are in RWD only if the 4wd light is on - that just indicates a fault. it could be as little as low level in the reservoir (you have checked that?)I don't know where the atessa computer is on the M35 but on the C34 it is in the luggage compartment left hand side between the tailgate and the wheel arch so a major to uncover it but that's what you will have to do to read the error codes.

Even the best workshops can do dud work sometimes (that's why i did a mechanics apprenticeship in my youth but obviously that's not for everyone) but here are two (after the fact) tips: 1. Don't self diagnose. If its overheating just tell them when and how it overheats and let them work out why. Ask them to give you a ring when they have a diagnosis and tell you what they propose to do and why and how much it is going to cost. 2. Go to the experts. Radiator shop for overheating. With a car of your age the radiator will need cleaning out or re-coring and the plastic header tank is likely to develop splits. If there is another fault this won't be wasted money as it is the most likely cause and needed doing anyway. [btw the fact that the temp guage has not indicated overheating in the past means little because it is designed to sit in the normal setting until things get really hot] Auto electrician for starter. Most mechanics have only a rudimentary knowledge of electrics and will fit new or recond exchange starters and alternators. Auto electrician will repair as necessary - poss bearings, bushes, clean up commutator etc - again a ten or more year old car will need this anyway. He can test your battery, alternator output and starter draw in 2 minutes. If you can find evidence of poor or unnecessary work by the workshop take the bill to the boss and have a chat and ask for some money back. Good luck

Some people manage to miss the aircond fan altogether - others just cut bits off that stick out and reroute the power cable. In my case I have a replacement, thinner fan.

No. Only loss of traction!!

If you put the same tyres on all four wheels the difference in rolling diameter (especially dynamic) could be enough to upset the attessa. Good on you for being the trail blazer. I have seen 350z wheels that i would like but have not bought because front and rear were an inch different. let us know how you get on!

Not speaking from experience I should think it would be fine if done properly (but probably illegal in your area).

One of the few differences is the numbering of the injectors and for the Jaycar IEBC it doesn't matter which injector you use.

Regarding the supension - it may be height adjustable as it doesn't look stock. Alternatively someone wanting to lower their car may swap with you. have a good look at it and if you don't know what it is get someone to identify it.

Have a read of this ( although I don't know about M35): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...sor-t83819.html

I think someone may have posted this before but here are more pictures than you could want. It is in my view an abomination: http://www.7tune.com/close-up-roadster-garage-hakoste/

Bang for buck its got to be better value than an ARC airbox but you would have attracted a lot less flak if you could have found a BLACK bucket!

Top marks for initiative but personally will be sticking with the factory airbox and snorkel.

Have gear shift. PM sent.

I vote for the copper plugs. I like to see how they are doing at least once a year. I use NGK BCPR7ES but 6 would be OK for street use. No need to stress about the -11 at the end. They are the same plug and you can gap them how you want. Big gap gives bigger spark if your coils are healthy. Smaller gap if your coils are tired and marginal. Use quality synthetic atf for the Atessa.

Yes its in the DIY sticky>intercoolers>>R34GTT i/c into stagea (and its kerosene and meths).

Onwards and upwards Chris . It would be interesting to know the mods involved at each stage.

Looking forward to seeing the chart! Do you have stock turbos and are they steel wheeled? How much boost are you planning to run? Should be fun to drive!

When you say nothing happens do you mean literally nothing? Do the LEDs light up at all? Best to test with the handcontroller plugged in so you can look at its screen. Try turning the trimpots on the IEBC back and forth to see if there is any action.Are you confident that the ICs are the right way round? and in the right places? If you look closely you will see that they have different part numbers: IC1 (marked with dot ) cat# EZ8996 KC5387A goes at right angles to the DB25 (handcontroller) socket on the opposite side of the board with the cutout on top - facing the DB25 socket. IC2 (marked with line) cat# EZ8997 KC5387B goes parallel to and near to the DB25 socket with the cutout on the left. Note links LK1 and LK3 should be left out.

I see in your sig you have an RB25 DET or is this another motor? AFAIK all DET neos are from S2 Stageas but the n/a DE neo was found in the later S1 as well. I should think the actual engine if it is a n/a neo would be the same in an S1 or S2 Stagea. You could check to see if the coil packs are the same .