KiwiRS4T

There are lots of things that can make a car overheat such as faulty thermostat, leaking frost plugs, wrong timing, running too lean, brakes binding, belts slipping but 90% of the time its the radiator. Just get yours opened up and cleaned out or replaced and the rest of the block flushed. Odds are that will fix it and if it doesn't you can start looking for more esoteric causes.

If you mean the synchro button on the dash then when its off the Attesa (4wd) is operating normally i.e. 95% rear bias until rears start losing traction. The synchro button just locks in 50/50 mode for take off ...reverts to computer control of all 4 when you get up to about 30k or so (can't remember the exact speed).

No contest - get the exhaust and the Nistune or you'll just strangle the GT35

Some people run staggered fitment so that the rolling circumference works out the same but it can be tricky - I prefer to to run the same width front and rear. I found 9in wheels OK on the rear but not the front (well at least not the set I tried). If you can afford brand new wheels (unlike me) you can specify different offsets front and rear (but same width). But to run really wide wheels (like Psymin's 10in ones) you have to get serious work done on your guards.

My $600 ".com racing" wheels 17x8 +30 offset and 25mm spacers on front. Tyres are 235x17 Bridgestone Re001.

My similar return pipe fmic. I have cut out all the plastic where the number plate was. Would probably look better without the bit of grill that I stuck in there but its more stealthy this way

If you can wait until tomorrow (youmight have to anyway) you should be able to find an auto electrician to rebuild it - should think a new one would be the wrong side of $1000.

Probably not at the front (see my reply in brake thread).

Probably not. I have 17in road wheels and they are fine but for the track I have a set of R32 GTR 16in wheels and i need a set of spacers to clear the front calipers (no problem at rear as I recollect). If you are planning to upgrade to 17s or 18s later you could just run spacers at the front for now but if you are planning to stick with the 16in then depending where you are spacers might be illegal. However your 16in wheels could be different from mine. It would be good if you could find someone near you with GTT brakes to try your front wheel on.

I have upgraded my S1 to GTT brakes all round. I was looking to upgrade my mastercylinder from the Stagea's stock BM50 to a BM55 but they are hard to find second hand and very expensive new so I haven't bothered. My brakes are fine. A bigger cylinder would in theory give you less travel and a harder pedal but it wouldn't make you stop any better.

What do you mean 4wd turned off? If you have pulled the fuse and left the drive shaft in you will have a problem.

Nice car - looks like a few aftermarket parts there - do you want to tell us what mods you have done - and let us know what power your' re making when you get it dynotuned?!!

I'll take the package. PM sent

For those of you who don't stray over to the Skyline parts for sale there are some cheap Yellowjacket coilpacks for S1 Stagea $280 here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...-F-t299707.html Also some other upgrades e.g. Z32afm, Trust smic and GT35 turbo for S1 or S2.

I'll take the manifold if you still have it. I would take the lot but sadly can't afford it! PM sent. ...Bob

Would appreciate a pic of it mounted in your engine bay so that I can see if I think it would fit in mine (Stagea). Thanks Bob PM or email [email protected]

If you post up your car's ID someone with FAST might be able to tell you exactly which unit you had new.

Looking for the rear diff out of an R34 GTR (for my Stagea so it hasn't got the management for an "active" lsd) final drive ratio 3.545:1 Want the taller diff so R32 or R33 won't do. Will pay postage to Auckland NZ! PM or email [email protected]

This guy can sell you a consult cable: http://www.ecutalk.com/He also does a nifty display that you can keep on your dash or you can use either to plug in a laptop. There is also a load of (some free) software available

Will be a special grease that doesn't damage the rubber. I screw that ring down really tight - using a blunt screwdriver and a hammer to drive the ring around!

The button is for the heater at the bottom of the windsceen to unfreeze the wipers. It could be faulty or maybe your windscreen has been replaced at some point without the necessary element. My mirror heaters come on with the rear window demister switch.

Here's one (cheaper than the US one): http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-262190541.htm

Its not a Stagea radiator - they just have a catalogue and find a picture of a radiator the right size and with the pipes in the right place. I'll go down to my local on Tuesday and see if I can get a reference.

Maybe its something to do with both pistons being on the same side of the rotor (just a wild stab in the dark!)?

I believe Dr Drift will make a chip similar to Toshi's on a dyno but obviously he would need your car. I can't remember where he is domiciled (Melbourne?).