KiwiRS4T

On most cars sump level is below filter.

I should think the new thermostat will make no difference to your top temperatures - your stock one would have been wide open by then anyway. If you use an expensive high quality synthetic oil it should be good for at leat 30,000km. If you change your filter at say every 10k (or more often if you like) the oil should be fine.

You will not regret building a strong bottom end as your engine should be pretty much bullet proof. I am interested to see your dyno chart after your next tune - I would be surprised if you do not exceed 250awkw but in any case i am sure you will have strong top gear acceleration.

If you want to buy a new turbo I would recommend the Gt3076 ($2185 from NZ Performance) but if you want to spend less you could buy my GCG highflow for say $800 or $1000 c/w split dump front pipe - I'm making 245awkw but due to upgrade in next week or 2.

SOLD!! Thanks

Psymins 1000hp Stagea is running an F-con as do many of the big hp Skylines.

Just had a look at mine without taking it off ... the bolts are at about 77mm centres which would suggest that the ID is probably correct at 65mm. I'm going down to the workshop this afternoon and I'll see if I can find one lying around as well as a n/a one to measure.

Yep final drive ratio is number of turns of the propshaft to turns of the axle. A tall ratio is a smaller number and a higher gear. I myself am looking for a taller ratio (higher gear) so that I can exceed 320km/hr [just kidding - I want a taller ratio so that I will have less revs when cruising at the effective legal limit of 110km/hr as I expect the extra torque of the RB30 will mean i don't lose out on acceleration]. I have a 3.54 to 1 front diff out of an R34 GTR (which actually is not much lighter than a Stagea) and I am looking for a matching rear diff (may have to import one from Japan as i have had no luck so far).

Thanks for that

Plug in Link (Vipec) for R34GTT is NZ$1800. Did you install your PFC? Did you have to change the order of some of the injectors and if so did you do it inside the PFC or change the wires around in the loom? I am getting a Link and the options (for an S1) are to change the injector signals or put in an R33 s2 loom and get a GTST Link...but I would rather stick with the existing loom and plug.

I have the OV300 which is the earliest and most common S1 ecu. It would appear from the diagrams and pinouts that i have that the ignition signals are the same but the injector firing order is different - only 2 the same: Nos 1 and 3. I wish people would not talk about secret squirrals - surely the time for such coyness is past? I gather there needs to be some kind of resistor put in the wire which cones off pin 51 - anyone know what kind and what value?

I am looking to put a Link (Vipec) ecu in my (now manual) S1. There is an R34 plug-in model which i hope to use. Can people who have put a PFC (or a LINK/Vipec) for that matter - confrim that the firing order for the plugs and the injectors is the same? I believe the only changes are for the engine warning light coming on when there is no traction control? Do people still have fully functional Attesa (assuming they have awd in the first place!!)? Thanks Bob

Welcome Pete! Good choice, S2 and manual. Regarding the wing mirror rust you have two main options: 1. Use the excellent tutorial of a few weeks ago and do it yourself. You sould be able to spray the affected area yourself with a spray can (can be made to suit your car) and the difference is unlikely to be noticed by anyone but yourself...or 2. Get it done professionally - they will want to spray the whole door. Re the mods - you already have the most important basic mod in the 3in turbo back exhaust. With the S2 you won't need a front mount until you upgrade the turbo so my pick would be a highflow panel filter for the stock airbox (cheap -around $100 -$120) and then a Nistune chip and a good tune - that should get you pretty close to 200kw and any spare cash could be spent on the supension! Good luck!

Or Pipercross PX -PP1128 (same as Falcon, WRX)

Your front mount won't be helping your response with a stock turbo. You should have no lines connected to your solenoid. Feed from boost pipe goes to turbo tech and bleed goes to bov return pipe (you have got a bov return pipe?) and the other line goes to actuator. Set the desired max on your turbo tech. If that doesn't work throw away your turbo tech and replace with a plain T (still with no pipes going to or from your solenoid) and put a restrictor in the bleed line the stock one will do but if you can't find it or someone has thrown it away you can just block off the T with solder and drill increasingly larger hole in it until you get the desired result.

Looks just like the one in the Jaycar thread (pic post #27) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja....html&st=20 Can enclose set-up instructions. PM me or [email protected]

Write in and contest the fine on the bov. Get a stock snorkel and airbox with a highflow filter and problem solved. (BTW the bov on my truck sounds like a trumpet but the cops never pull me for that!)

Its spot on for S1 and I think in most respects S2 is the same. (Main differences are in cylinder numbering which shouldn't affect anything you need). There's a pinout chart in the DIY section above. I don't know about the laws in your state but i always kept my SAFC SITC and IEBC in the glovebox and locked it. Don't want to give the cops any reason to poke their noses in further.

There are instructions for doing most of those things either in the DIY in the sticky at the top of this section or in the general skyline DIY section. In our Stagea DIY section under "fitting an adjustable cam gear" SK gives instructions on how to chnage the cam belt (and also suggests that the water pump is good for 200,000km and should n't (or needn't ) be replaced unless it is faulty. If you have the time and inclination you could do all of the above (perhaps not on the same day) over a few weekends. Replacing the spark plugs e.g. is a two hour job the first time but much easier the second (there is a tutorial in the skyline section). Save your money for the tune!

For sale Jaycar Independent Electronic Boost Controller and LCD Handcontroller fully assembled and working fine. Both for $120 posted anywhere in NZ or Australia.

By-pass the solenoid (instructions elsewhere) and then regulate the bleed to get the desired max boost. Then save up for an electronic boost controller.

I have dropped my S1 a bit further on the Bilsteins and its now 340 front 350 rear which is about as low as i want to go. As someone pointed out lower than that (apart from bottoming out on driveways) you start putting excessive angles on your universals (CV joints). At the above ride heights its comfortably above the 100mm min. In NZ you have to have a minimum of 100mm below any substantial part of the car (diff, sump, chassis rails) but not including appendages such as exhaust or side skirts.

Not sure if your obd2 reader can read consult. Check with Peter ( [email protected]) he will put you right and if necessary sell you a consult cable at a good price.

Sorry, double post -

Can't suggest a shop but can recommend you get some better quality pads and replace fluid with Motul RBF600. If you are not a driver who stands on their brakes all the time and not intending track days then that and new stock rotors should be fine.