KiwiRS4T

Mines ecu needs no special attention but if you do any major mods you will have to find some one who can make a new chip for it (poss Toshi e.g.?)

Wind your boost up til you hit boost cut or R&R or whatever your car does (but not more than 10- 12psi) and then knock it back til it stops doing that. Then leave your boost controller alone and control the extra power with your right foot.

When you say "have a play with your tune" do you have anything with which to measure what you are doing i.e wide band meter to measure afrs, some kind of knock detector and an exhaust temp meter? Otherwise you could end up destroying your motor.

BTW at current rate of exchange that's only AU$1365 plus postage

I was making 240rwkw with 550 injectors at 75% duty cycle so I would guess you would make the 300kw OK but might be a stretch to 350kw. Have you got a Z32afm?

The obvious culprit would be the reconnection of the afm wire - is it a solid connection now?

You can buy a Link G4 straight from the factory for NZ$1820 : http://www.linkecu.com/ or from any Link dealer in New Zealand at the same price (they have an agreement not to discount) e.g. http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/store/index...t&Submit=Go The part number for an R33 plug in is NGT4 p.s. you will probably want an air temp sensor as well

There is a tutorial on how to change the timing belt in the DIY sticky above. You can put the cas back in the same position but if the old worn belt is replaced by a new one the timing could be a bit out anyway. Is there any marking on the cam cover to say that the belt has been done? If it was done at 85,000 they are good for at least 100 - 120,000. I can't tell by looking at a belt if it needs replacing - maybe someone who does a lot of them could. You could always pull the cam belt cover off and see if you can find a non factory brand name but if they have replaced it with a factory item that won't help!

Josh and of course this one: http://www.ripsltd.com/

You can use a non turbo block (turbo blocks are rare in NZ). Try this link: http://www.staparts.co.nz/ and try this: post_a277815_rb30_dohc_1_.zip

You can stick the stock bov on the hot side of the i/c - much easier to plumb back that way.

The answer is yes. Since you have gone to so much trouble you may as well get the ideal settings from the dyno. Of course you can set it near enough beforehand and adjust it when you get the opportunity on a dyno.

I have been able to eliminate compressor surge with careful control of boost building with a Jaycar IEBC - you could possibly do it with another effective electronic boost controller.

SOLD thanks!

Where to buy: if you scroll down to the bottom of the screen to the box that says "Forum Home" and click on the dropdown menu and scroll way down you will find a bunch of traders (or you can buy from Nengun as above). What to buy: Splitfires have got a reasonable track record but they are the most expensive. I believe Yellowjackets also have got a reasonable reputation by now (I got mine from http://www.performance-wise.com/ ) but no doubt someone will have bought one of the other brands and say they are working fine.

To the wreckers for a Bluebird cable is the go apparently!

Doný know about "modern materials" - I was given similar advice by a very well qualified motor engineer about 30 years ago after he recond my engine. He said to go wind it out in third gear (pref uphill) and then take foot off til it slows down and repeat. He said it wold be run in in half an hour. Only warning was to watch oil pressure and temps and if OK give it heaps ...Ive done that ever since with motors I've built.

I didn't see any braking section. Can you give us a link directly to the page?

I presume you mean off boost but I don't expect it to make any difference. On boost I thought the point was to reduce the length of piping and so reduce lag?!

I have put the question on trade Me. The problem is that there are things which get in the way when trying to bolt the bracket on. Despite destroying a set of brackets with an angle grinde i couldn't get them to fit. I wasn't game to take to the suspension with the angle grinder.

There are two kinds - the ones referred to as dog bones becasue they look like that and which move the whole caliper out or the kinds that just tilt the caliper. i have not been able to find ones that fit the S1 Stagea so make sure you have a money back guarantee that they will fit S1 Stagea.Put up a link to your source and I will try to check them out although I don't have my Stagea atm as its in the workshop.

No I mean those brackets that enable you to offset your own calipers (or GTT ones in my case) to take advantage of bigger diameter rotors. It is not the hole centres but other aspects of the Stagea assembly that got in the way.

I had one of those kits that someone was bringing in from China for Nissans but I couldn't make it fit the S1 awd Stagea so unless it specifies its for a stagea see if you can get it to bolt up before you buy.

Stagea does not seem to appear in any of the Australian or NZ ratings. The one I saw was for 2001 (don't know if that's C34 or M35) and it was 5 stars out of 6 JNCAP crash tests so maybe someone who can read Japanese can look it up on a Japanese website.

With the GTT ones I had to do both - pulled out the olive and then cut a few threads off the bolt.