KiwiRS4T

A good tune will not be cheap so you only want to do it say twice. Get a better fuel pump. Bosch is better than Walbro although if you are going for 300kw then an intank Walbro and exterior Bosch is a good combination. Assuming you have an S2 get the Nistune set boost at 12psi and get a good tune. Next stage ideally needs to be done altogether although just the turbo will be ok if money is tight but it does mean an extra tune: Highflow your present turbo and set to 1 bar (15-16psi) and retune...should give you around 220kw (or for a few hundred more get a new GT3076. Then injectors (S15 JDM 480s -not sure if they fit the neo -or new 550s) and a Z32afm. Your stock fuel rail will be ok for well over 300kw. A good tune should give you 150 - 160+ kw depending on how good your fmic is. Your unopened block "should" take this power ok so long as it is in good nick to start with, you use a quality oil and have ensured a good fuel supply and you have a top quality tuner (this last is critical).

You can use any good quality atf.

A Mines ecu is not something magic. It is an ecu with a chip that has been made to suit a particular car. If you happen to have a car that is set up in exactly the same way it will work for you and it will still work if it is pretty close but that would be a fluke. The chipped ecu from EFI is virtually the same as the Mines ecu with the important difference that the chip has been made for your car after tuning on the dyno. It would be very unlikely that a chip made for an RB20DET would suit your car. There is a Mines ecu on tradeMe from a 260RS. That is not going to suit you either. Go to EFI and see if they can make a chip to suit your Mines ecu. If they can your money will not have been completely wasted. Good luck.

OK well you have probably found the same web pages as this one: http://www.lucasinjection.com/bosch_and_lucas_fuel_pumps.htm which shows four flow charts for Bosch pumps and in each case the pressure drops off sharply after the rated pressure so the 070 pump rated 130L/hr at 3 bar would pretty much not be flowing anything much by 5 bar.

Regardless of specs wouldn't its old age indicate a new pump being a good idea?

Any RB25 box will do but the GTR box has a stronger transfer case hanging off the back of it.

Like he says put back the airbox, get a highflow panel filter. there are several return flow front mounts which will connect to the existing piping (look in the parts for sale or try the SAU merchants). You may have to get a thinner aircond fan.

Save yourself the money and hassle. just get a highflow panel filter for your airbox and save up for an 80mm exhaust system or a bigger turbo.

far out looking pod. And what's the black box with GReddy on it and the two blue hoses - some kind of boost controller?

Put the stock airbox and a highflow filter on and that's one less thing to worry about and it will work just as well.

Nistune is something like $357. Sell the neo and buy a nistune...then you can get a proper tune.

Got practically the same (245awkw) in my Stagea with GCG turbo and same gear as yours but chipped ecu instead of pfc (chart in rb25 section). Had a adjustable exhaust cam gear - set it to 4deg ret as per SK's suggestion and a year later when i got it set on dyno the ideal setting was near enough 4deg bang on. Stagea being awd and lsd did not spin wheels with 17/245 8in rims in the dry.

OK then it matters what kind of Stagea you have. Mine is a S1 C34 and ride height (as defined by Ryan above) is 340mm front and 350mm rear. "Slamming" it to the ground is usually a cosmetic choice as it gives you stuff all suspension travel and puts extra wear on driveline components.

Nistune is not available for your car unless you swap out the ecu for a Z32 or similar. EFI can chip your ecu but you really need to have your car there for the tune. From the "what ecu" thread below: ok i have a price from NZEFI ( which is a good performance shop in Christchurch ) They put a re map board and chip and tune it for $987.50, or Shred in Wgn are Link agents!!

No. A mines ecu would be just the same as the one you get from EFI except it wouldn't be tuned for your car. And as suggested above Walbro is cheap choice - do your own install and with the money saved buy a better pump.

Why do you want to get rid of your air flow meter? ? AFAIK you need either an afm or a map sensor and changing to a computer that uses a map sensor is going to cost you more than a few dollars.

I presume you are talking about the tyre profile... the answer is the same as any other car. Broadly speaking lower profile = better handling, higher profile = better ride. Its entirely up to you how much comfort you are prepared to sacrifice for ultimate cornering performance. For me that means 235/45 on 17 x 8 rims [i have a set of slicks for the track] but if you want 20in rims go for it!

The chip and tune looks fine to me. You don't need a front mount unless you are planning on a new turbo. If you are not and you can find an R34 smic for about $100 and install it yourself that will save you money and get you to over 200kw. If you want a fmic down the track then you may as well do it now and $450 installed sounds OK. A new fuel pump is a good idea. You can buy one yourself from NZperformance or Redline for about $200 and fit it yourself or let EFI do it. If you get the EFI chip then when you get the big turbo or RB30 it will still be able to cope with a tune at each stage. If you are set on a replacement ecu now or later then you better do some reading and make your own mind up. Power FCs are getting harder to find and over here seem to be $1200 - $1500 with a hand controller. then you will need a Z32 afm as well. They are not supported by the factory but there is a heap of information on SAU starting with Paul's FAQ and EFI will be familiar with tuning them. A brand new Link would be my preference - there is a plug in for your car, the factory is in Christchurch and EFI can tune those as well.

the handbook I am offering is the English translation by JPNZ (no Japanese language in it at all). I also got the Japanese one with the car but i doubt anybody wants that one.

Since you are in Christchurch go see EFI http://www.nzefi.com/ and ask then about remapping your ecu and a tune. That will solve your problem and see you through til about 300kw. If you decide to get another ecu you will be able to sell your present one. There are plenty of people who can tune a PFC but they are no longer made or supported so for an extra few hundred dollars I have bought a Link but that is for another day - the cheaper solution above will do everything you want - remove speed limit, adjust rev limit, fully tunable. And despite what anybody might say a good tuner can make a huge difference to how well your car goes (obviously a bad tuner can rip you off). I believe EFI do a good job but I am sure there are other good tuners in Christchurch. You won't get any huge increase in power until you get a better turbo.

Not well I would guess by the lack of reports but would love to hear otherwise!

Where are you in NZ? EFI in Christchurch can remap your R33 ecu (make it tunable and tune it for you) or there are a number of people around the country who can fit a chipped ecu. A Link at $1800 would be better than a PFC but tunable chip would cost a fraction of that price.If you're not planning any more mods an SAFC would sove your problem. To my knowledge Mines ecus are not user tunable so they will only suit one particular set up optimally (although they may run other cars).

You can have my handbook for $25 posted. I doubt they will get enough to ever do the Stagea workshop manual. You can buy the English translated R33 manual and get a copy of the Japanese language manual on cd and that should sort out most things.

Here's my Stagea with a Nismo SMIC. Later made 245AWKW with a fmic and new tune. Bit more left - GCG claimed 450hp: (see post #558):http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...html&st=540

Speedo drive is in the transfer box (behind the gearbox) on the driver's side. It is electronic so wires go to ecu and up to dash. If you can get hold of (buy or borrow) an ecutalk then you can see if you are getting a reading at the ecu so you can eliminate the drive as a problem. Hint: put your location in your profile so people will know if they are near enough to help you. (I'm probably not).