KiwiRS4T

You still haven't stated your target power but since you have the Z32 afm and the massive injectors you may as well go for 260 -270awkw. In my opinion the KKR and 2530 won't hack it. On a budget Hypergear will build you a turbo to do the job or the GCG highflow will make it or if you can get Wolverines 2835 pro S that will do it. If I were in your position again I would buy a GT3076 lowmounted ...that would do the job with capacity to spare. p.s if you blow the auto people converting to manual generally end up giving their auto boxes away unless they have been modified pps get a GTR manual box later!

1. You are too low. Try going up one circlip groove. 2. Try to find a better suspension shop than Peddars ...but not before you get them to fix your wheelnut problem with new studs and nuts. Wouldn't have happened if they torqued the wheelnuts as a professional should.

040 is the internal pump 044 is sold mainly as an external pump but it may be used as an internal. There is a little bit of work to adapt it depending on the car it is going into.

I take it you have ditched the stock solenoid? Tried adjusting the boost T (without regard to any markings on it i.e. adjust the boost downwards)?

On a shelf at the back of your garage!

I suggested going to a good suspension shop -that excludes Peddars by definition! You can do all that stuff yourself (do you really need a new steering rack?) or better still with some mates (cost of a tray or two). I prefer Bilsteins to cheap (adjustable?) coilovers but try a drive in a car with the suspension you a looking to buy and make your mind up that way rather than spend money and wish you hadn't.

You just need to ask a few welders/fabricators to find one who does motorsport applications. There was a guy advertising custom surge tanks on ebay there is bound to be someone in your city. e.g. in NZ we have RIPS http://www.ripsltd.com/ or Sinco Customs http://www.sincocustoms.co.nz/ among others

Changing the spark plugs is a good start. Get coppers NGKBCPR6ES -(and then there may or may not be 2 digits representing the gap. You want .8 but if you can only get -11 or nothing that is ok as you gan gap the plugs to .8 with a feeler guage - buy a set if you don't have one they are not dear). Clean the coils and look for burn marks and spray and/or tape them up to insulate them. By-pass the solenoid to eliminate any problems with the solenoid or ecu. That should be a good start and all necessary maintenance anyway.

I use Castrol Edge 10w -60. May use Motul 300v in my new engine. If you use a high quality synthetic oil like Motul 300v there is no need to change it every 5000k. Once a year should be plenty. This is not just a makers claim - some guys are having their oil tested and using it longer [i would be interested in seeing the results of these tests if anyone wants to share!]

What do you mean you "locked the diff"? How? If you mean you turned on the synchro button that just ensures that some drive goes to the front diff. I don't know of any way to lock the front diff. Try to find a bit of road with a loose metal shoulder. Drop the LH wheels in to the loose metal and boot it (with the synchro button on) and then turn the car around and repeat . get someone outside the car to observe whether you are getting drive from both front wheels.

Stock snorkel will be fine . R34 smic easy swap - pipes will fit. Make sure you adapt the shroud for best results. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...age-t69501.html

A good suspension shop should have a look at your car and give you a free assessment. Check for aftermarket suspension. The traditional check for shocks is to push each corner of the car down hard and let go. It should spring up and stop dead. If it goes up and down once or more the shocks are shot. A proper suspension shop will have a machine that can measure the rebound and show it on a graph. If you have aftermarket shocks they may be adjustable. If not or if your standard shocks are shot a set of Bilsteins would be the answer valved to your requirements (i.e. not too stiff) and retaining the stock springs. A stiffer rear anti roll bar will improve cornering without affecting your ride quality.

A member has kindly supplied these just a few days ago (post #2) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Stagea-t324588.html oops, sorry - wrong car - would measure mine for youbut its in the workshop

I had a 33 front pipe on my S1 but the rest is different. Have you got a stock set up or are you going to 80mm or bigger? I don't have a cat but you could just measure the pipe before and after the cat if you are buying a new one. Sorry - see you are talking cat-back. Pretty sure you need a Stagea specific one or you could just get an exhaust shop to make one up.

That's bad news! I bought a set of yellow jackets for the RB30 going in to my Stagea. My 14 year old stockers were still going fine at 245kw and 16psi but I thought it prudent to get a new set for my new engine ( and I gave my old set to someone having problems) so I hope the new Yellowjackets work ok. I guess you have to expect the odd failure but I guess i'll find out once my car is back on the road (and the track)!!

Reason not to get an SAFC is because it is the same price as a Nistune chip which will do a lot more! Why do your charts stop at 6000 rev/min? Our engines will rev to 7000 no problem! Yep I reckon a Nistune and a good tune will give you a big increase in power - worth saving up for!

Very unlikely your cam belt has jumped a tooth while your turbo was being swapped and you would know all about it. If you haven't got a decent tuner in Perth ( have you asked around?) plan your next holiday in a city where there is one.

Autos should be dynoed in 2nd gear with the snow button on - that way it won't suddenly kick down halfway through the run. The proper correction should be factored in by the dyno. 100awkw does seem a little low for 13psi. SK got 130kw with stock exhaust and only 10 psi but with dfa (safc equivalent) which wouldn't really give much more power: [bTW Adrian if you have a S2 and you're not planning any more mods for a while a nistune chip and tune would be a great investment - you probably could do with more advance and should be able to get 140 or so kw. - I know I'm a foreigner but my reading suggests one of Sydney's top tuners would be Yavuz at Unigroup Engineering] Dyno results with a completely unmodified Stagea Just finished tuning the Stagea with the Jaycar Boost Controller & Digital Fuel Adjuster. There was a half hour window where the 4wd dyno and the operator were both free at the same time. Tuning took all of 20 minutes on the rollers with Dyno Dave running the Dyno Dynamics and your truly pushing the buttons on the Jaycar Controller. With ZERO mechanical changes (std exhaust, std intercooler, std airfilter etc), just the 2 Jaycar electronic controllers fitted, we managed 132 4wkw at 10 psi running a nice and safe 11 to 1 AFR's. At midday on a 30 degree plus day, with no temperature correction applied. That's a good 30% improvement over standard, for an all up cost of $380 in parts and dyno time. That's what I call good bang for my buck. As well as making more power, I also leaned out the AFR's to a more fuel economy friendly 14.5 to 1 at the lower rpms (off boost). The standard AFR's were 12 to 1 off boost and went as high as 9 to 1 on boost, not good for power or fuel economy. I would have liked to go a little leaner than 11 to 1, but the ignition timing was getting a bit advanced as I pulled more fuel out of it with the DFA lowering the AFM voltage. It was the usual piggy back compromise, no doubt exacerbated by the standard exhaust, compliance cat and standard intercooler. I could trick the standard ECU just so much, then it would pull ignition timing and dump a whack of fuel in. My biggest single observation with the Jaycar DFA was how easy it was to get rid of the usual RB25DET power dip around 4,250 rpm. With 100 settings at 128 load points I could fine tune it so easily. There is simply NO DIP, and anyone who has tuned an RB25DET will tell you that is hard to achieve with piggy back controllers.

Simon was selling one for AU$600

The pupose of posting the list is just to show that 4wd cars can make some good times. As I said the 10 second bracket would have been of more interest to you but they don't publish them anymore. Robbie Wards 240Z had massive rears (you can see a video on the RIPS website) but the R34GTR was in full street trim but with either slicks or drag radials on about 10in rimsFew other of the above cars would be driven on the street. Wiggs R34 is a tube framed fibreglass and carbon fibre body with a supercharged Rb30/25 with mechanical fuel injection and a 2 speed auto driving the rears only with 15 x 14 tyres. It will be going faster yet.

With a wire in Link you can pick and choose the functions you want the Link to take over (e.g. all the engine management functions) and if the auto computer is inside the stock ecu leave it there to do all the auto functions. The Link's "flat change" ability should take care of the old problem of undue shocks during gear changes. (ps the change to a map system will get rid of problems with the stock afm)

Try this (if it works try introducing your cheap sh*tty bleed tap thing. If that now works then your boost controller should work if you connect it up right): This is the 10 minute no cost boost to 0.5 bar rerouting of the vacuum hoses [thanks to SK]. Disconnect the two vacuum hoses from the solenoid. Then connect the boost feed (from the cross over pipe on the left of the picture) to the standard T piece. Connect one side of the T piece directly to the wastegate actuator (on the right of the picture). The remaining connection on the T piece goes back into the inlet via the BOV return pipe (on the standard fitting). Make sure to put the standard brass restrictor in that vacuum hose to bypass the desired amount back into the turbo inlet. The standard bypass hole of 1.25 mm bypasses enough air flow for 0.5 bar. (See photo) PS: If you want more boost you can drill out the bypass, 1.5 mm = more boost (around 0.7 bar) 1.75mm = a bit more (around 1.0 bar).

If you pull the hose off the actuator you will find it will boost way past 5psi!! The apparently well known method (according to SK who I learnt it off) for bypassing the solenoid is to bring boost from the intercooler pipe to the T, take one line to the actuator and put the restrictor in the line to the bov return pipe. Then you can regulate boost by varying the size of the restrictor- make it bigger to divert more air from the actuator to increase boost or smaller to decrease boost. This is just a simple way of replicating the way that a boost controller works ( although obviously without some of the other benefits of a good electronic boost controller such as varying the speed of boost build or offering 2 different boost maps).

I have never ever seen a haltech but wonder why or how it is not working on your car. What problems are you experiencing?The Nismo sounds like a punt. How much is sh*tloads of money? If you have $2000 and wiring skills a proven ecu is the Link (or ViPec if you prefer) wire-in version. The 2wd manual M35 for sale on TradeMe found the Link to be the best way to provide tuning capability on the V6 engine.

An early post says Nissan Pulsar studs fit.