KiwiRS4T

I will be doing the opposite - R33 cas into R34 ecu - apparently it just requires the reversing of some wires.

Narrow band sensor is the normal O2 sensor that connects to the ecu. Any afr guage connected to it is just for show - to make it work properly you need a wide band sensor.

What did you change from (before the Motul) and let us know how the change to Redline goes!

Good to see someone making an M35 go faster!!

$20K!!!!or Rb30 for $200 (or realistically $5 to $10k fully forged and balanced etc)

My understanding is that the atessa sends 5% drive to the front wheels as a minimum at at all times. Regarding fluids when my car was auto I bought 20L of quality synthetic atf and used it in the auto, the atessa and the power steering.

Clutch your logic seems fine. I might try the Motul some time - I have the Redline stuff ATM. Kinks! No need to stay in 4th. Just double declutch (without blipping the throttle of course) and slip it in to 5th. With practice there will be no "crunch".

I believe they work well in the V spec cars but won't work at all in other cars because they don't have the control gear to make them work (like you say it works in conjuction with the HiCas and Atessa and no doubt the special ecus that control them).

The answer is yes it appears normal 4.3:1 is quite short - would drive me bananas but some people who are more interested in dragging from the lights seems to like it. My Stagea has a 4.1 final drive which I find too short. I am looking to change it for a 3.545:1 off a R34GTR which should be fine when my RB30 is fitted.

R34 GTR is 3.545:1 R33 GTR is 4.1

Not saying your bov is faulty but there is a mod suggested by a tuner. Take the bov off and you'll see a small hole about 1.5mm. Ideal: find a threaded screw or bolt and tap the hole to suit. Put the screw in and mark where it sticks out. take it out and cut it off there and cut a slot in it and screw it back in. Not so good: get a self tapping screw and do the same. I ended up getting a GTR bov. It bolts up fine but the hose is bigger so you have to adapt the plumb back.

My rule of thumb is you don't need a bigger intercooler unless and until you get a bigger turbo.

There's a bleeder just above and to the left of the fuel rail more or less in line with the end of the plenum. It's a hexagonal bolt with a little tag under it. I think there's another at the back of the motor but haven't got my car here ATM so I can't check.

Read the RB25 turbo upgrade sticky above.

I'll let you know as well. By accident rather than design I will have all the good gear in my sig on an RB30/25 stock except for new rings bearings and rod bolts. [Would have preferred to have it rebored forged pistons and balanced] With the stuff I have it should make the 500hp ok but for how long is the question. I will be relying on a good tune and 6,800 rev limit to make it last so if it doesn't quite hit the 500hp so be it. Anything over 300awkw will be a bonus

If you had bought a Link instead all the support you need is online or by direct phone to the factory! I am not sure if your V88 is eqivalent to the "Storm " or the G4 but here is an example off the Link website (you will need to check with your ViPec support source): Software online help) is going to be used to tune the engine. Any Analogue Volt channel may be used to accept the signal from a wide-band EGO sensor controller. Note that G4 ECU's cannot accept the signal directly from a wide-band sensor. A wide-band controller works as an interface between a wide-band O2 sensor and the ECU. The controller should connect directly to the sensor and output a voltage between 0 and 5V. The sensor calibration (the voltages that correspond to given air/fuel ratios) must be known and this information must be entered into the ECU via PCLink Tuning Software. The recommended Wideband Oxygen Sensor controller is the Innovate LC-1 Wide-Band controller

Most people go for copper plugs [NGK BCPR6ES] because they are cheaper and you can easily replace them annually. I would guess that your old plugs had quite a big gap but would be worthwhile to find them and measure the gap (if you haven't got a set of feeler guages they are not dear). If your coils are old and tired it seems to pay to gap your plugs down to 0.8mm instead of the stock 1.1 BTW I am not sure if it is platinums or iridiums that don't like being gapped so be carefull and if you break an electrode just bite the bullet and get a set of coppers and try to sell your remaining 5 plugs! This may not be your problem though. Did you do everything back up tight (since you have to pull quite a bit off to get to the plugs)?

The figure will be the same. Your wideband meter is not reading afrs it is measuring the percentage of oxygen and expressing it as an air to fuel ratio. Although some wideband meters have the facility to change this if you leave it alone you will still be looking for the same numbers e.g. 14.7 stoich and around11-12 on boost regardless of the percentage of ethanol.

Not saying whether or not your tuner is to blame but looking around the options seem to be: GT Auto Garage in Newmarket Brisbane appear to be HKS approved. Other than that in other cities some guys get together and fly in a tuner from Japan! Or you try to get Soichi to pop over but that wouldn't be cheap!.

Yes its your plug gap. Well it might be. Do you want to share with us what plugs you put in and what gap? Were they the same as the plugs you pulled out and what gap did they have?

Is that as in R33 or R34?? I want some for my car but both are very expensive and the R34 hard to come by.

You are right about the standard injectors - would be interested to see the duty cycle - I would guess they are near limit.But the Walbro should be OK. OP has directly wired it and I made 245awkw with that set up. (Having said that I am now adding a surge tank and an external Bosch 044 in the search for 300kw+)

Soichi Tate http://www.sthitec.co.nz/Ex Nissan Japan - people bring their GTRs and other Rb powered cars from all over the country for him to tune (does all computers - but he is one of the few HKS specialists)

In theory the F-Con should work - there are a number of RB26 powered cars over here making 500 - 600kw with an F-Con but one of Auckland's top tuners is an F-con specialist - I haven't heard of any in Australia (not saying there isn't any but have never seen reference to one).

What power were you expecting with stock injectors and afm? How was it to be tuned and if you haven't got any means of tuning why did the "tuners" accept the job without talking to you about that? [Edit: see you have F-Con]If you have only a blown headgasket you have got off lightly. If you have spent a lot of time and money doing up your pride and joy you need to spend a reasonable amount of time researching a workshop that knows about Rb engines and has not just a dyno and someone who knows how to operate it but a tuner with a solid reputation. The only Sydney tuner whose fame has spread as far as Auckland is Yavuz from Unigroup Engineering but ask around for recommendations.