KiwiRS4T

I have three different part numbers although I don't have the actual coils to see if they are in fact different: ALL R34 neo RB20DE 22433-AA000 RB25DE 22433-AA100 RB25DET 22433-AA101 Measuring resistance is not enough. You need to examine the coils and the surrounding areas to look for shorting or drive at night with tne coil cover and bonnet off (or may be able to see just be loading it up while parked). There are numerous threads on insulating the coils or just reducing the plug gap to .8mm.

Yes Nistune is not available for the S1 and S2 (non neo) RB25 ecu but if you have a manual you can fit an R32 or other ecu and Nistune that. There is a lttle stuffing around invoved and you need to get some system for switching the vct. Better still is a new Link ecu or if that's too expensive maybe an Apexi PFC if you can find the correct model at the right price. The SAFC will be better than nothing but forget the Z32afm for now. If you decide to get a Link later you won't need an AFM at all. Link website: http://www.linkecu.com/ Swedish Dealers: http://www.motornord.se/system/webshop.asp...3&HSID=3054 Motor Nord AB Bjorneborgsgatan 49, PO Box 708 85131, Sundsvall. Tel: +46 60-157 400 Fax: +46 60-157 405

"Flat spot" may also be standard feature of ecu. You may be able to improve things a little with safc but probaly need chipped or replacement ecu to fix it.

I don't know about Tech Edge but the Innovate wide band sensor has a narrow band emulator with a seperate wire which is outlined in the instructions so you can just plug in to where your original O2 sensor was. Otherwise you will have to go to a welder and get the spare bung that came with your unit welded in to the front pipe. There is a special spanner available to get the O2 sensor out - you may have to get one or get a workshop to undo it for you.

Yes...although I suppose it depends on what kind of pod filter adapter you have. I know that it was a straight replacement for my stock airbox set up.

If you are going to run them on the track only don't stuff around get slicks (second hand are cheap). What makes you think your car's not low enough? Have you got adjustable suspension?

Sorry - assuming its the same as my Stagea where to get the ecu out you unbolt the cradle that holds it even though it looks as though it would slide out of the cradle. Maybe you should post up a pic ?

You have spent $450. Nistune is about $500 including software but for the extra $50 you can set the afrs much more precisely, set timing across the range, get rid of the speed cut etc etc. In either case you need to get a proper tune, preferably on a dyno. I had a SAFC and SITC as well as a wide band meter and played with it myself but couldn't get the same results as a good tuner on a dyno. I got better results with a chipped ecu (sadly not a Nistune as I have a S1 stagea).

Have you had an auto before? Need to check level with the engine running after you have been through all the gears. If the level is high on the stick it won't have "twice the amount of fluid" becasue it holds 10 or more Litres and only about 2 in the gearbox sump. Oil should ideally be cherry red (unless it has been replaced with aftermaket atf) -if its dark brown its probably burnt (been overheated). S1 should redline at about 120k in second either with kickdown and foot kept flat or by selecting 2nd gear. Anyway it seems your problem is solved!

Pull cage and all out.

Or just leave the head on it and get a bigger turbo. What kind of results are you looking for?

Ask JustJap if it will fit. That way if it doesn't they will have to give you your money back (although it would be a lot simpler to put the stock airbox on with a highflow filter).

The advantage of the harness is that you can do the soldering on a bench and then just plug it in. You will need the pinout chart from the DIY section (although there is probably a basic pinout with the instructions). You can play with it yourself but really it needs to be tuned on a dyno or you could damage your engine. Really you would be better off with a Nistune chip and sell the SAFC to someone with a S1 or M35 (i.e. someone who can't use a nistune chip).

1. Your series 2 ecu is more like an R34 ecu than an R33 2. There are very few people in Australia who can tune an F-con. There are some in Sydney and one or two elsewhere. Some big hp GTRs were imported into Australia with HKS F-con fitted and some owners have flown tuners in from Japan to tune them - do you have the money to join that club?!! Seriously your best bet is to try to sell it to someone in Sydney with an R33 and get yourself a Nistune chip.

Pretty sure these will fit S2 - they are called S1 because they are an upgrade for S1 ( I threw out the orange bulbs and put clear ones in).http://www.performance-wise.com/page68.htm

If you are not going to track the car auto will be fine. You can always get a shift kit from MV autos and beef up the box if you go for big power or convert it to manual if you want. For the ecu the nistune chip is by far the best value for money. A heavier rear sway bar will be the best bang for buck in the handling department. When you get the Nistune up the boost to 10psi and get a good dynotune.

That would tell you if the ecu is functioning correctly but the vct could still be malfunctioning. Try a couple of back to back runs - one with the vct disconnected.

Read this thread on how to tell a fake: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wr...ow-t332812.html

Had a 15min search of Google but could not come up with any advantage for BKR over the BCP which seems to be the standard. Do either of you have a reason to prefer BKR? All I can find is that BKR is made to an ISO standard that means that the bit that sticks out of the block has slightly different length. Not knocking them because I have never tried them but how do you reckon they are better than BCP and how do they compare price wise?

Don't panic. Are you losing water, overheating? Get the pressure test done and if there is no negative result just keep on driving while looking for any more symptoms. If there is clear evidence of water in the oil or vice versa or if the pressure test shows system not holding pressure then you may need to look at pulling head off.

If you have the cap off and rev the engine the coolant level will commonly go down and return to normal when you stop. Watch for the leak to reappear. Bubbles and milky stuff bit of a concern. Try to get your colling system pressure tested (any radiator shop should be able to do it - its a 5min job.

Should be pretty straightforward. Put a 33GTR box in my S1 and mounts fit and resused auto driveshaft no problem. Probably need GTR ecu and loom. Brakes should fit but will probably need to push guards out for 18 x 10 rims.

The innovate has a narrow band emulator so you can run both from the same sensor (narrow band and wide band) i.e. you can take out your old sensor and use the Innovate one for both (there are seperate wires).

The advice on that website is quite sound but there is a heap of good stuff on here. Only quibble with the other website - don't bother with SAFC etc since you have a neo engine get a Nistune chip for your ecu as soon as poss (since you already have the 3in exhaust) and before you up the boost. Get a good tuner to up the boost and tune it.

Pointless is the word you're looking for. And if you are worried about fuel consumption start measuring it in litres per hundred km - your guage may not be all that accurate and a more precise measurement will reveal differences in driving style etc. Tell your tuner economy is a piority and learn fuel saving driving techniques. Myself I have stopped worrying about fuel consumption - I prefer the fun of putting my foot down and try to save money by using the car more efficiently (i.e. less km in a week).