KiwiRS4T

Highflowed? When you put the 3in system on have a look to see if it has steel wheels and if so you should be able to push it up to 16 - 18psi if you have the ecu to support it. May need more fuel, afm by then (unless your ecu uses map reading) ...then you should have up to 100 more awkw!!

Any mods? Stock exhaust? If not - cheap mods- get a high performance filter for the stock air box and bump the boost up a couple of pounds. More expensive - 3in turbo back system.

Not mine just pointing them out for anyone interested: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-314996259.htm

Try google for the various silvia forums, evo clubs, boost cruising etc

Oops must get more sleep!

TPS is the round thing on the front of your cam cover that controls timing. . Sounds like you are going to need some help - plenty of expertise in Japan - get friendly with a workshop that will do some of the hard bits for you or try and get in contact with some of the members of this and other forums that live in Japan. You can order a nistune chip by mail or for a quite bit more Mines and other tuning shops can chip the RB25 ecu. As you have time read a few of the relevant threads to build up your knowledge.

I had no problem with my off the shelf split dump but if yours is catching the wastegate surely a few minutes work with an angle grinder should "adjust" it to fit rather than buying a whole new front pipe.

There have been blank posts, multiple posts, parts of threads gone missing but appears to be fixed now.

My local RB workshop has just picked up an interesting car - bought it as a repo with a stuffed engine. It is not a 260RS but it is a series 2 Autech -awd neo engine, manual, lots of carbon fibre bits: bonnet, 260 type spoiler, cf trim inside... came with 3in exhaust HKS suspension etc. I'll try to get the chassis number next time I am there and maybe someone with Fast can check to se if it is a factory special or a one off by Autech.

I got the 33GTR console with my kit and used the gearlever and handbrake boots on my auto console. I think you could use almost any boots and adapt your console to fit. The whole kit incl GTR box was only $1000 - not going to pay another $1000 just for a console!

Unless you have a plug in loom for the R34 I would have thought Nistune easier and cheaper to install.

Note that the diff in the R34 will be 3.54:1 so you'll have to get a matching rear diff or stick your old one in there.

Leave it in gear. At idle the torque convertor acts like a clutch and there is no need to select neutral. Learn left foot braking.

Ditto ... GTT brakes were straight bolt on to my S1 front and rear.

This is for S1 but pretty sure M35 is the same (i.e. the sump will hold a lot less than half). You could do it without dropping the sump. This way you are just using the stock auto's pump (it has been suggested that the pwer flushing system of the auto shops can damage seals but I can't verify that): Get yourself an auto sump gasket kit and a 20L drum of (ideally) quality synthetic atf. You need 12 to 14L for the auto and you can use the rest for your attessa and power steering. Drain the sump and drop it (easier said then done - you will have to support the box and remove the rear mounting). You will only get betweeen 1 and 2 litres this way. Check that the new internal filter is exactly the same (otherwise the sump won't go back on) and if not either modify the new one to suit or clean the old one and put it back. Put 2L of fresh oil down the dip stick tube. Then pull a hose off the trans oil cooler and run the engine until you have pumped out 2L into a container. Pour 2L of new oil down the dipstick tube and repeat until you get clean oil coming out. This will take 12 to 14L in total.

You can get up to 5in if you want!

I and a number of other RB owners over here in NZ have been using Gull "Force 10" for over a year. It is an E10 - 10% ethanol blend. Tuners like it. I think the evidence doesn't support your friend's contention that lower octane fuels can produce more power. Have a look at the E85 thread to see the power people are making with the higher ethanol content!

This thread refers to S1 and S2 C34 1996 to 2000 not M35.

Get yourself an auto sump gasket kit and a 20L drum of (ideally) quality synthetic atf. You need 12 to 14L for the auto and you can use the rest for your attessa and power steering. Drain the sump and drop it (easier said then done - you will have to support the box and remove the rear mounting). You will only get betweeen 1 and 2 litres this way. Check that the new internal filter is exactly the same (otherwise the sump won't go back on) and if not either modify the new one to suit or clean the old one and put it back. Put 2L of fresh oil down the dip stick tube.Then pull a hose off the trans oil cooler and run the engine until you have pumped out 2L into a container. Pour 2L of new oil down the dipstick tube and repeat until you get clean oil coming out. This will take 12 to 14L in total.

Cat is not currently required in NZ. There is a noise limit. To OP: get the three inch now or you will be doing it again later. Also find another exhaust shop. With the right muffler at the end you will not be too loud or if you want you can stick in a resonator in the middle.

Here's a cheap engine though it may have sold by now: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fs...ng-t321668.html

Pretty sure they are not the same. Depending on what clutch you get you want the power boosted clutch pedal

Go to a couple of panel beaters and get prices for repair. If it is structural and not just cosmetic then never mind what the regs say - you will want it fixed properly.

In my experience decision to write off is made by the insurance company without input from the customer. The point is if they write it off some enterprising member should be able to buy it at auction (or through the owner - sometimes they give the owner the opportunity t obuy it before the auction) for a couple of thousand and repair it. Presumably it wil have to be re-complied or something. When my last Stagea was written off I bought the wreck for $1500 - it had at least $6000 worth of parts on it ( 245kw engine, suspension etc )

I am using an RB25DE head retaining the VVT. I understand they have bigger valves than the RB25DET heads. Gasket is a Tomei RB25 item. +1 for ringing Dick at Hytech engines - he does a lot of RB30 stuff and you can always courier him the head if necessary although its just over an hour's drive away if you need to take the block in.