KiwiRS4T

I,ve got a GT3540 on a sinco customs (similar to 6boost) manifold and 50mm ext w/g with a .63 A/R going on my RB30. Hopefully it will get my heavy Stagea moving quickly and still have an adequate max power. Will report when its going!

Hotter plugs may help - BCPR6ES. You can't really tune it with the DFA without a wideband. If you are finished your current set of mods maybe you should splash out on a dynotune.

^^^as above...sold!

Sorry to comment after the fact but it seems you were poorly advised on the basis of people who are prepared to run excessive negative camber and put "stretched" tyres on. I don't usually comment on these wheel fitment matters because I am probably considered old fashioned or maybe just old! I hate stretched tyres. Even 245 on a 9.5 rim seems too small for me. I have 235/45 on my 8in rims and when I get my 33 GTR rims (9in) I will be looking for 255 or 265 - whatever is most price effective.

Found out postage so price will be AU$600. Have interest from 3 people so waiting too see the colour of their money!

^^^Like he said it appears to be quite lean. Do you have a chart to put up? Checking the base timing is fine but it doesn't tell you anything about the rest of the timing. You need Guilt Toy to tune your engine properly (or go on to the UK GTR site to ask for an experienced RB tuner).

As a matter of interest what type and viscosity oil are you using?

I always warm up cars by driving them (like the OP without hammering it from the off). Other possible problems faulty temp sensor or too heavy grade oil?

Buy a top quality synthetic. Work out which is the right viscosity for your car so that it doesn't overheat ( or get an oil cooler if necessary) and stop changing it so often. It will be good for at least 20,000km. Change your filter more often than that if you want.

Sounds likeyou need a decent tuner. Shouldn't be guessing with your timing and if you want to protect your build a first class tune is a must (and if you have run it more than half an hour it should be run-in and you want the best tune possible).

I have a full set of Tein Sport Spec Driving Master HA for WGNC34 260RS or 2WD cars which have the fork type rear shock mounts. They are height and damper adjustable. They came from a fellow SDU member who was returning his Stagea to stock. I bought them becasue I am putting a GTR diff in the back but it turns out I can just change the hubs and keep the rest of my suspension so now surplus to requirements. Price $500 + freight (about $200) - will check and confirm. [i can't get rid of that tail light - there are only two attachments showing so there is no way of deleting it!!).

Psymin was running 10s on his S2 and found it necessary to have the guards made bigger. You will run out of room at the front first.

see above

That's correct. In that case I guess I was mistaken to suggest that the OP has the "wrong ratio" and in fact it will be near enough. According to my calculator that is just over half of one percent difference so I guess the Attessa is capable of overlooking that small difference and the OP will be fine with putting that diff in the rear only.In my case I have an R33GTR diff to go in the back and i will put one in the front as well because the motor is out anyway and RB26 front diffs are a dime a dozen because people put RB26s into two wheel drive cars all the time.

My pinout diagram says Pin 31 Ignition power supply (G/O) It also says pin 24 Ignition switch signal (W/L) Try putting a meter on pin 24 and see how it relates to the ignition switch position. Otherwise can you not use a meter or probe to find a wire at the back of the ignition switch and run it directly to the relay? Less than ideal but just to make your car drivable. Can you try replacing the relay? I am not really sure which relay you are talking about but I have wrecked an S1 and have a box full of relays to spare. Try posting up a photo.

Tuners don't know everything! A quality synthetic will prevent the running in process.

You are right. There have been a few R34 GTRs here change their diffs for R33 4.1 diffs.

Get some cheap mineral oil for running in. Running in should take about half an hour and then dump it and put the good stuff in (and change the filter).

++++copper They work just as well and they are cheaper: NGK BCPR6ES and gap them at 0.8mm if you think your coils are struggling. Also look for tracking marks where the coils might be shorting and consider insulating them with tape or a spray (search for examples).

I used to use Castrol 10W 60 but have also read lately about the dangers of too thick oil. There are a couple of considerations 1. Which brand - and I have done heaps of reading of reviews and test results and it is clear that a quality synthetic will outperform mineral based oils. There are probably three or four top synthetics but i have decided on Motul. 2. What viscosity. This depends on the state of wear of the engine and how hard and long it is being thrashed. My theory is that you need an oil temp and an oil pressure guage and then you use the lowest viscosity that will give you adequate pressure and not reach excessive temps. In my case I have decided to try Motul 300v Competition 15W 50. If that turns out not to be heavy enough the next step is 300v LeMans 20w 60.

Link has more capacity and abilities than Nistune. Nistune is normally better value for money (although will not work with R33 ecu and you will have some adapting to do) but if you can get a Link for $500 that will be a better buy. Any Vipec dealer should be able to tune a Link. Here is a link to the factory ...you can get info from their tech dept: http://www.linkecu.com/

That's a good price if you are buying it from someone and you know its working well. Otherwise its like any second hand piece of technology - great if it works waste of money if it doesn't.

You can use good quality synthetic for at least 20,000km.

Google "pods v airbox" and you'll find tons of reading including from this site.

Not in NZ - does not apply to body kits or exhaust - don't know about your state.