KiwiRS4T

RIPS will make you one but it will cost more than the ebay one.

Check universals on main drive shaft and also on front drive shaft

I guess any kit would do - just need to measure the cooler to make sure it fits in the space where you want to put it and maybe make up some brackets and measure the hoses to make sure they will reach.

Another truck driver or a loader driver at a mine? I drive container trucks - mere 45 tonne max!

Replaced your plugs lately? How much boost are you running?

You can't get more than 50/50. Google Attessa to get more comprehensive explanations. The Stagea has the R33 version.

666 Dan is spot on. The RB25DE version has a seperate computer for the auto on the right of the steering wheel. The automatic transmission is exactly the same so no point in changing it. The other difference is I believe that the DET has traction control and the DE does not so that could be a problem. You can download an R34 manual from Paul's website: http://www.paulr33.com/ and scroll down to the problem solving sections under AT (for auto trans) - it may not mean much to you but you may get some ideas. You say it is in limp mode so the engine goes OK? I would guess that you need an RB25DET manual ecu off a GTT. I have suggested an alternative for you. If that is no go as a last resort I would trailer the car to MV autos if there is no auto shop in your town who wants to sort it for you!!

Valve body upgrade? Manual conversion should be less than a thousand pounds!

You mean you can't fit it to the block (major problem!) or your current oil filter doesn't screw on the relocation bit (not a problem just use different filter)???

Have voted for your car. At some point you should get a proper computer e.g. Link: http://www.linkecu.com/

Yep that works...thanks!

??? second hand turbo will come with second hand or no actuator. Brand new actuator from GCG (for example) $155.00

I,ve got a Jaycar speedo adjuster box - just need a new dial. How does the needle come off the speedo? Just a straight pull or is there a trick to it?

I got mine from a radiator repair shop. They probably won't have one in stock but should be able to get it overnight.

Ok looks like I was wrong to say your gate can't be too big but the literature that comes with the GT35 emphasises having the most direct route for the waste gate and that would seem to support having it come off the housing as recommended by Trent and also my manifold maker.

According to this handy table: http://www.deniliquinsportingcarclub.com/i...on&Itemid=9 the same igniter 22020-05U10 suits the R32 RB20, 25 and 26 May 89 to Aug 91

Its off the turbo housing on my GT35 on a Sinco customs manifold (similar to 6boost) because that provides the most direct route for the exhaust gasses. I have a 50mm Synapse w/g - I don't think it can be too big but it can be too small so I should be ok (engine still out so it hasn't been run yet.

Get a stock Rb25 or neo turbo rebuilt with steel wheels and put it on your current engine - that might keep you happy for a while - and you can transfer it to your Stagea engine later if you decide to go that way (will make 250kw on the rb25).

Adjustable cam gears with your stock cams may help.

RB30 $5k to $30K depending on how much power you want.

Autech get an RS4 from Nissan and drop in an RB26 engine, manual box, Brembos etc etc. As far as I am concerned if someone else does the same then I would be happy to consider it a 260RS. Its like Mike who shifted all the goodies from his rusty 260RS into another shell. I would have been happy to buy his car as a 260RS. In your case you have got many more goodies than Autech fitted originally so you can't lose!

No. One of the features of a quality synthetic is that it has a very long life. Some people do regular testing and can attest to this. So 20,000km or one year is quite conservative. If you severely overheated it (say way over 130 deg C) then you shiuld think about changing it. It can, of course depending on the state of your engine , become contaminated by rubbish, filings etc and so changing the filter more often may be a good idea. Cut the old fliters open to see how much cr*p or not is in there.

Nice car. Looks as though it used to have a rear strut brace. Maybe they took it out when they fitted the roll cage.

Test your thermostats by suspending them in a pot and gradually adding boiling water while holding a thermometer in the water. Make sure they are closed when cold and watch when they begin to open - should be around 75deg C

Keep the vct on inlet (even when you get a bigger turbo). Adjustable on exhaust only. I had a GCG hiflow on my RB25DET making around 245awkw (running 1 bar) exhaust cam retarded 4 deg (tuned on dyno). I can't remember where the gains were but it may have been midrange rather then max power.