KiwiRS4T

More/colder air = a little more power which was my aim. You tend to use the power you have so don't expect any improvement in economy. However it is not a major difference -- you will be unlikely to notice a huge increase in fuel consumption either.

n=4wd

Duncan do you know what material your adapter is made of? I have an adapter which is only the second from this particular supplier (2/3 the cost of the RIPs one) so I am wondering if I should be worried about a similar failure.

Not if afm is doing its job - there will be a slight increase in airflow and afm should measure it ok. I have a scoop built into my airdiverter that directs airflow into the snorkel

Do you have a good tuner who likes Adaptronic? If so OK if not for a little extra you could get a Vipec or Link.

Sorry - confused you by stating the bleeding obvious - reverse light needs to be connected to gearbox, not ecu. Pinouts sent!

I'm not sure what you mean by internally or externally balanced but the RB motor does have an harmonic balancer on the front pulley. The engine should run OK with the auto ecu - in the Stagea you short out the fuses below the battery to enable it to run with a manual box so don't know how to do it at the ecu. You will have to connect up the wire for the reversing lights. Have you got a S1 Stagea pinout? If not give me an email address and I can send it to you as an attachment.

Just the adapter or an extended sump as well? email Rob from Rips http://www.ripsltd.com/

More than you might think! How much money do you want to spend?Firstly an 80mm (three inch) exhaust from the turbo back - I prefer the split dump over the bellmouth. Second an upgraded intercooler. A series 2 or GTT smic will do it but if you think you are going to want more power later you might as well get a return pipe front mount. Thirdly to make a genuine 200awkw with an automatic awd Stagea you will need a better turbo -e.g. your stocker rebuilt by Hypergear or GCG The most difficult part with an S1 is finding a way to tune it. I would suggest a Greddy E-manage. A decent electronic boost controller would be nice . This should get you 200 -220awkw And finally you should probably invest in a new fuel pump (e.g. Walbro) as although the stocker may do it is quite old by now and you don't want to be caught out when it packs up. Also change your brake fluid to say Motul RBF600 get some decent pads and a 24mm solid rear sway bar! (I'm assuming you already have some decent tyres)

You can get your auto rebuilt to handle 300kw+ or you could save the money and get a manual box.

I use the snorkel which is also fed by a scoop in my air diverter. I have also cut a hole in the top (front) of the stock airbox to which I have piped cold air from behind the LH headlamp. Having recently changed to FF plenum means there is a spare hole vacated by one of the intercooler pipes and I am tossing up whether to use the LH scoop in my front bar to supply cold air to that part of the airbox or leave it as is and use the scoop to supply cold air to the brakes.

I can't open your file but no matter there is another R34 pinout diagram on this Stagea section in the DIY section above. Pin 31 is supposed to be G/O (green / orange I presume) but that probably doesn't help. I have a wiring diagram for the R34 ecu. It is for an auto as it is most likely that your engine and ecu came from an auto. I also have one for a manual which is slightly more simple. If you give me an email address I will send it to you as an attachment as I have scanned it in high resolution so it is quite a big file. Send your address to me at: [email protected]

You can control boost with just the wastegate e.g. RB20 with a single line to the actuator or an adjustable wastegate like the Synapse. The correct wastegate properly installed will not spike or creep. A boost controller (any one) is just delaying the action of the watsegate by bleeding off the pressure to the wastegate. Response can be varied a little bit by a boost controller which will delay the opening of the wastegate but ideally the wastegate will be doing most of the work and the boost controller is just a "trimmer". [edit] better put by Trent

I have debadged my car but find the rear wiper very handy so no chance I will remove it.

See also Rips custom jobs: http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html

Have you thought of getting a Nistune chip? Without that your car can't really be tuned at all.

I used the Jaycar IEBC for about a year and it was very reliable. The DFA is a better version of the Apexi SAFC. I would only recommend it for a S1 Stagea, but even then you would need an Apexi SITC to do the timing and a Greddy Emanage would probably be better. For a S2 the Nistune chip would be much better value for money as it does the whole range - afrs, timing, speed limit removal, rev limit adjustment etc.

Straight plug in: http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ng...25det-p-42.html

If its not 24mm solid getting one will be good.

Its an early model Link (currently also sold as Vipec). It should enable all the usual: tune afrs, timing, eliminate speed limit, reset rev limit etc. You can probably get any specific questions answered by the factory: http://www.linkecu.com/

Coils are expensive. There are a few threads on ways to insulate them which often fixes the problem (sometimes in conjuction with gapping down the copper plugs to 0.8mm). The other popular alternative is Splitfires which are available from a few Traders on this forum or from Nengun http://www.nengun.com/splitfire/super-dire...ignition-system. The Aussie traders seem to be just as cheap but read carefully to see that you get the right model for your car. There is a rumour that you can get genuine Nissan ones from Japan for a good price at the moment but I haven't looked into that. They are normally twice the price of Splifires at least. If you can't find any suspension parts list the ones you are after and I will give you some contacts in NZ where they can be bought. There are a few UK Stagea owners but I don't know if they have their own club/forum.

Sadly the ecu in question is from a S1 Stagea (with the R33 engine)which looks like the R34 plug but the ecu is different in a number of respects. If it were a S2 Stagea (with the neo engine) it would indeed be very similar to the R34 ecu and would be capable of accepting a Nistune chip which the S1 cannot.

I have 44psi in my notebook which is near enough to 3 bar

You have to buy a seperate controller or alternatively swap your ecu for a Z32 one I believe and stick your nistune chip in that. There are a few tricks to it which i don't know (try searching). Better still would be a Link ecu which will also control the VCT : http://www.linkecu.com/dealers/germandealers A cam gear on the exhaust cam is not an alternative to VCT - ideally you would do both.

Car is not at home just now but will post pics later.