KiwiRS4T

For the S1 I had an R32 ecu piggy backed on to the stock ecu which would enable you to run Nistune but the amount of wiring was really uneconomic. The best option in my view would be a Greddy E-Manage. I myself have moved onwards and upwards ( I hope) with a manual box and a Link G4 to control the RB30 that is going in.

RS4S would be great if you can get the centre console with it ( I have just chopped up my auto one and fitted R33 boots to it)!

There is a thread on this page about fuel supply.

There is a list of ecus on the SDU website but anyway I used to have such an ecu. You should biff the stock solenoid and either run a pipe straight to the actuator for around 10 psi or run a bleed to get more (or a proper boost controller). You can get more boost from the actuator you have by biffing (or at least by-passing) the solenoid and using the T to run a bleed to to the bov return pipe. You need to relocate the restrictor in the actuator line to the bleed line. If that doesn't give you enough boost you can progressively drill out the restrictor (bigger hole = more boost). i.e. existing line from boost pipe to T, one line to actuator other to bov return pipe.

Rob from Rips http://www.ripsltd.com/ is very generous with his advice although it would be only fair to buy the sump and adaptor from him! Alternatively you could source them from Dick at http://www.hytechengines.co.nz/ or there are a couple of Aussie suppliers I believe.

You'll have to take to the front bumper with your jigsaw - intercooler needs some airflow!!

I am sure it is capable of much more. The 3L going into my Stagea is looking too small already!

Try insulating your coils and sticking them back in (or better still see if you can borrow a set of known good ones) to see if a set of splitfires will fix it.

Good to see this kit available at last! Have to say 450kw is somewhat underwhelming but the extra capacity will have to translate to more power. It will be great to see someone build either a drag or a circuit car and see what it is really able to do!

If you are going to sell the car I wouldn't bother putting any of that stuff on as it won't increase the resale price much. Is it an auto or manual. S1 or S2? If you are going to install all that stuff - you will only need one cam gear - best to keep the VCT on the inlet side (assuming you have an RB25DET and not an RB26DETT). I am not familiar with your turbo but without a new afm you will be limited to about 230 - 240 awkw. Are you sure GTR injectors will fit your engine? Any way I will be interested to see how it goes!

What do you want from it? Read the RB25 turbo upgrade thread to see what you need to do to get the power level you want. Nistune is best bang for buck as far as ecu goes.

Whether its the usual slight hesitation or severe R&R it can be fixed by getting a Nistune chip and a good tune. Wasted spark is not popluar these days - was there anything actually wrong with your coils?

Have a look at the Weldon filter: http://www.earls.com.au/files/4af22f3a66cf...LDONFILTERS.PDF

I guess if you have 2 Bosch 044s its easy to buy another one but wouldn't it be tidier to sell them and get one or two much more grunty pumps?

I gave up on the search for a non v-spec R34 rear diff to go with the front one I found and have now bought a complete R32 GTR rear end with some kind of aftermarket mechanical LSD so will be 4.1 final drive.

and/or put a cooler in the return line

At 12v your Walbro will deliver only 2/3 of the rated flow at 60psi (20psi boost). If you have not rewired it to full battery voltage it will most likely be getting even less than 12v and will deliver even less fuel. What does the afr graph look like approaching max power? I see Guilt Toy was at one point making 317rwkw and just changed from a Walbro to a Bosch 044 and managed to retune to 363rwkw. Some people have claimed 500hp with the stock exhaust manifold but you would definitely benefit from a 6boost or similar (as well as a new fuel supply).

Just get an ecutalk display from http://www.ecutalk.com/

The important thing is to get the ecu tuned in the car. I have had Andy tune my car on the road and on a dyno - you don't need the dyno figure although the chart is handy but Andy has all the gear to properly tune your ecu in the car. The mail order tune should be conservative to be on the safe side so a tune in the car will get the best out of your limited mods. The 1/4 mile time will mean more than a dyno figure which is really only useful for comparing the same car on the same dyno after you have done some mods.

I believe that someone has done it successfully - have to angle it just right- (on this forum but can't remember who) so it is not a false claim but most find it easier to get a slimmer fan.

Get a Stagea neo engine. You don't need a seperate vct controller Link will do it.

I belive Tricky Tune is up your way. Get your chip tuned in the car at least and on a dyno ideally. And yes take a trip to Meremere for a reality check. OOps it appears Mr Tricky Tune has taken his skills to Australia. You will have to take your car to the guy who made the chip in Auckland (was it Andy?) and get him to refine the tune in the car and then carry on to Meremere!!

This is a cheapskate RB30 (stock bottom end, upgraded rings, bearings and rod bolts) supposedly good for 300 -350 awkw (although I would reccommend forged and balanced if you have the cash) so stock pistons, later model RB25DE head which has bigger valves than turbo and VCT which I am retaining. I think the CR will be about 9:1 but I haven't measured it.

For those of you who don't stray from the Stagea section here is an excellent article supplied (not written) by Trent of Status tuning which explains the above terms in detail: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...rs-t344581.html

See if this one's still for sale - I think he wanted $400 for the ecu c/w nistune chip - you could just plug it in an get a tune.http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...fm-t340680.html