KiwiRS4T

That will work - few people have them already (Blitz is similar but slightly better). Handy that its painted black - I always paint mine black anyway.

Just get a new pump anyway if its the original you need a new (not second hand unless you're broke) pump. Walbro will be fine or Bosch 040 or more expensive if you want. Try also to get it direcxtly wired for full battery voltage (several how tos on this site or a sparky should be able to sort it easily).

I presume you have the valve timing right - this was the original problem after all! If necessary re-read SK's how to under "cam gear" in the DIY section. You can pull out a plug and observe it while turning the engine over. You can remove the CAS and turn it by hand and listen for the injectors clicking...just a coup[le of thoughts. You should have the heater on full to promote circulation and get rid of the air in the system.

Its just for take off really - (e.g. pulling a trailer out of a wet grassy car park) above a certain speed the atessa computer just does its normal thing anyway.

The fuel pickup is on the right hand side so when you turn right the fuel goes left away from the pickup. This should not normally be a problen unless the tank is quite empty so there are two things that come to mind... the pickup is not fitted correctly to the pump so that it doesn't sit right on the bottom of the tank or maybe the sock and or the tank is clogged with dirt. Either way it could be a good idea to pull the pump out and if it is the original not a bad idea to put in a new one at this stage and anyway change the fuel filter in the engine bay if you haven't already. BTW I have a fuel guage sender unit if you think you need one although it might be easier to get one locally if someone is wrecking a Stagea near you.

Here are instructions on how to bypass the solenoid and adjust the bleed to acheive different boost levels (courtesy of SK): This is the 10 minute no cost boost to 0.5 bar rerouting of the vacuum hoses [thanks to SK]. Disconnect the two vacuum hoses from the solenoid. Then connect the boost feed (from the cross over pipe on the left of the picture) to the standard T piece. Connect one side of the T piece directly to the wastegate actuator (on the right of the picture). The remaining connection on the T piece goes back into the inlet via the BOV return pipe (on the standard fitting). Make sure to put the standard brass restrictor in that vacuum hose to bypass the desired amount back into the turbo inlet. The standard bypass hole of 1.25 mm bypasses enough air flow for 0.5 bar. (See photo) PS: If you want more boost you can drill out the bypass, 1.5 mm = more boost (around 0.7 bar) 1.75mm = a bit more (around 1.0 bar). OK, this is the picture of the vacuum hoses. The boost pressure comes out of the intercooler return pipe (that's the big black one on the left) via the standard fitting. It travels down the vacuum hose to the standard T piece. The right hand side of the T piece goes to the wastegate actuator via another short piece of vacuum hose. It has 2 standard spring clamps on it. So that "some" of the boost pressure goes to the wastegate actuator. The left hand side of the T piece is connected to another (longer) piece of vacuum hose that goes to the standard fitting on the BOV return pipe. You can't see that fitting in the picture as it is hidden by the (big black) turbo to intercooler pipe. I squeezed the standard restrictor into that vacuum hose, it is tight fit, so be patient and use some lubricant (RP7 in my case). The restrictor limits the amount of boost pressure that is bled off, so that the "some" pressure that goes to the wastegate actuator is actually less than the boost pressure. This means you get more boost before the wastegate opens at its usual 4-5 psi. How much more depends on the size of the hole in the restrictor, the bigger the hole the more it bypasses and the higher the boost. The standard hole is ~1.25 mm and gave ~0.5 bar on my Stagea, which has standard everything else (no exhaust, no FMIC, std filter, etc). If you have mods, you may not get the same boost pressure, so you may have to adjust the size of the hole in the restrictor, it is brass so you can easily solder it up and redrill the hole smaller if necessary.

Its a 2wd but still a lot of custom work to make the gearbox fit. Being manual made it a bit easier to fit the Link ecu but someone on this forum has fitted a Link to their auto S2 C34 . A Link is a viable option for your M35s but there is no "plug in" available - you would have to buy the wire-in version and make all the connections one by one as this guy did.

Would you care to elaborate?

"some" is the key word - I think he's on his third for the same engine!

You've probably already got a 4.3 diff. GTRs are 4.1 so going the wrong way for you. There are 4.6 diffs out there you will have to ask around. 4.3 and 4.1 most common.

Would have thought 720cc capable of quite a bit more power. Pressure on idle is fine but Walbros flow chart shows flow drops off sharply when pressure goes up so I imagine having two of them won't change that. I guess adding an external Bosch 044 or two with a surge tank would solve the problem.-

People remove them here but you should check whether they are a requirement in your state.

Did you install the fpr yourself? Is it in the right place? Put it back to stock immediately and see if there is an improvement.

Generally any money you spend on a car is written off so if you are thinking of selling it just get a standard ecu for it. If you are going to keep it and get a new Link then you will probably want a bigger turbo and injectors and a tune and then start paying attention to your brakes and suspension and clutch.

Bad luck mate. I feel for you being currently uninsured myself. Your options include: 1. Wrecking for parts - you'll get the first few grand quite quickly but could take a long time to get the rest. 2. Rebuilding with all new parts - quite pricey possibly uneconomic 3. Rebuilding with as many second hand parts as you can source 4. R34 front kit - ask some of the guys who have done it what the minimum spend would be. If you go for rebuilding and assuming that you are not a panelbeater its a good idea to go to quite a few panel beaters, stressing that it is not an insurance job and that you are paying for it yourself and try to get some idea of what you're up for. I'm pretty sure repairing will only be worthwhile if you plan to keep the car - if not you may as well wreck it for parts.

Just looks too low to me. Does it feel fast? My RB25DET with an R33 turbo highflowed by GCG was making 245awkw. Unless there is an obvious fault I would suspect poor tune. Do you want to PM me the name of the tuner/workshop? AFRs look conservatively rich but that's not a bad thing. Apart from fuel supply timing would be the obvious thing to look at. The difference between a good tuner and somone who just knows how to operate a PFC can be huge.

How long did the tune take and where are the charts!

So why did you ask?

That's the reservoir for the Attessa. the stuff on top of the diff is the attessa pump and accumulator. There is a bleed nipple above the diff and one down by the gearbox extension.

^^^ as above -turn up the boost. Actually maybe you need to take a trip up to Sydney and get someone like Yavuz at Unigroup to do a proper tune. My S1 Stagea with a GCG highflowed R33 turbo was making 245awkw at 1 bar so yours sounds a bit low. Try to find out what kind of turbo you have - maybe you need bigger injectors, a Z32afm and maybe a better fuel pump if that hasn't already been upgraded. As has been said before the stock exhaust manifold is good for 300kw, stainless high rises are good for nothing except cracking. Your stock manifod will be fine although you may need some kind of spacer depending on the turbo.

I believe the short answer to the above is no although my mechanic is fond of saying anything is possible if you want to spend enough money. In fact I don't think the tiptronic has any more abilities in the hills than the S1 box (which I used to have before I converted it to manual). With the S1 box you can turn off the "overdrive" which leaves you the bottom three gears or if you are going downhill with a caravan or car on a trailer you can chop down to 2nd. If you also hit the snow button that cuts out 1st gear so you can pretty much control what gear you are going to use. I can't really see any value in changing to tiptronic.

Haven't got round to it myself yet but I guess you just remove the headlining and undo the bolts. Do a search to find what people are doing to cover the holes - myself I am thinking of getting some of that stuff that people stick on the sides of their cars (rubbing strips?) after filling the holes.

Yes different ecu. Someone was going to try it but don't know if they ever did. If you're going to swap the box you may as well do as Chris says - get a manual box.

Why can they not check timing at high revs? Do they not have Nistune software? Sounds like your main problem is you're in the wrong city!! CAS do go wrong and yes they are expensive. Try and find someone with an R34 to borrow one off. Try the general skyline forum under forced induction - someone may be able to help you. I wouldn't be in a hurry to rip the motor out without good cause!!

You're right - these engines are not cheap. Is this Maxima engine suitable? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-327266000.htm Is buying a Maxima engine an option for you? [possibly not as these are front drive only]