KiwiRS4T

On my S1 RS4T the rear anti-roll bar was about 18 or 20mm in diameter and hollow. I replaced it with a stock Whiteline item: BNR11 XX which was 24mm thick and solid steel. It gave a great improvement in cornering. I don't know if the bar I mentioned is a GTR bar but if so you should be fine. I believe S1 and S2 bars are the same - can't remember what the "V" in your car stands for. Can you get a hold of the GTR bar and (a) measure the diameter and (b) offer it up under your car to see if it has the same profile as your current bar? Or alternatively find a shop with a Whiteline catalogue and see if the reference i gave above is for an R33 GTR.

And WRX STi

These were designed by SK and another Stagea forum memberBass Junky Got a batch made up. He may also have had a range for Skylines but this was a couple of years ago.

OK Auckland wrecker has M35 Stagea 2.5L starter $195 + 15% GST with warranty - postage would be less than $100 I would guess. Anyone want it? (You would have to pay in advance as I am currently broke until next payday - thursday). If you want I can go there, take a photo, write down any part numbers.

Well you've just answered the question why did they pull out the 18psi actuator - because you said you only wanted 16psi!!!!! Tell them to put the actuator back you will be happy to run 18psi and make some more power!

Power loss? compared to what? Try gapping them at the factory 1.1mm

Let me know if you can't find one - I'm sure I can get one from a wrecker for not too much. Have you asked an auto electrician for a price to rebuild?

Either box should do - there's a few threads and a DIY on converting to Manual.

If brand new Splitfires won't jump the factory 1.1mm gap then there is something wrong with them or the installation. Not familiar with the other plugs you mention - most RBs would be running NGK.

Checked on my adapter plate. Comes from Hytech engines and is steel. Owner Dick says his one has been in for 2 years with no problems (550kw R32GTR) but he has seen some aluminium or aluminium alloy ones which he said would expand at a different rate.

10 psi is condsidered safe. 12psi should be ok. Do not run more unles you are prepared for a turbo failure. You can get 12psi by manual bleed. RB20 actuator will give you about 10 psi. Electronic boost controller will give you better control.

Yes!!

Do you have a triple plate clutch?

You haven't said exactly what plugs you are using - I use coppers NGKBCPR7ES and since you have new coils they should work fine at 1.1mm gap.

If it were a S1 you would have no chance of making 200awk without a new turbo but with the neo engine and Nistune you can get quite close. Yes do the exhaust first - full 3in turbo back (front pipe plus all the rest). Second hand gear is a possibility esp front pipe which is common with Skyline so look in the skyline parts for sale section of this website. Some Stagea owners wrecking writeoffs may have the rest. The walbro will benefit from the conversion to full battery voltage ( you may not go any faster but it will last longer.... if you are not confident to do it tray of beers may get some member's help rather than pay auto electrician) High flow panel filter in your stock airbox (e.g. Pipercross PX-PP1128) Do you think you will want 250 awkw later? If so leave the smic in place because you will want a good quality front mount for that. if not keep your eyes open for a cheap turnflow front mount which can be fitted with minimum fuss. The important bit is the Nistune chip and the tune - Trent from Status has a top reputation. Fit the Nistune, preferably an electronic boost controller set at 12 psi and get a good tune (do not skimp on this part - it could cost you your engine and on the plus side a good tuner will maximise performance). Your auto should be fine with 200awkw (Don't be disappointed if you dont make the magic figure - with the above work your car should go much better). If you have any money left and you haven't touched the suspension the best single thing would be to get a heavier rear sway bar (Whiteline BNR11XX 24mm or equivalent) And next time you need some brake pads get some better quality ones and change your fluid to Motul RBF600! PS and be sure to post up your progress when you get around to it -esp the dyno chart!!

Sounds like a cr*p tuner although looking at their ad they seem big time. Maybe the person who did your tune is not theiir expert?

Good result and yeah, what turbo? (You need to get that 260RS out from under your name - its confusing!)

I have been using Gull E10 for a couple of years. It is a 10% ethanol mix. You won't get better economy but it will clean out your fuel system so get a new fuel filter soon. Main advantage is you can run a bit more timing (go faster) but of course you need some means of tuning it (Nistune, E-Manage, Link etc).

What bit can't be repaired? You have rewinders surely?

Only on exhaust side. A few people have experimented with inlet - waste of time.

NGK BKR have a groove in the central electrode - dont see any "earth prongs" though.

Yep I had one a couple of years ago worked OK but I think it was an auto version . Haven't got the instructions any more but pretty sure there was a setting for WGNC34. Ill have a bit of a look through my old notes. With all those kinds of things it can be tricky to tell which way is on and off on those toggles. Just checked auto is type 2

Hi Dave If you make it to 250awkw I think you will be surprised just how fast the old Stagea gets along! I think you already have a Z32 afm - can't remember what injectors? Do you have a Just Jap turnflow front mount or a Blitz? Intercooler could become a limitation. You could spend $5k on Poncams and headwork. If you sold the GCG and got a Gt3076 even with a low mount you could make near 300kw for around 2K or get a 6boost manifold with external wastegate and crack 300! Or even without the 6 boost - see the following page esp post 662 663 675 680 for some outstanding results from a Hypergear turbo tuned by Trent at Status Tuning! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...html&st=660

^^^tend to agree. In order to improve flow on a n/a motor it is necessary to change cam profiles and port and polish heads. Its much easier (and cheaper) just to get a bigger or more efficient turbo. Of course once you are getting well over 300kw then headwork and cams come into it again as does better manifolds. Retaining the stock cams and vct with an adjustable exhaust cam gear will give you adequate tuning options near to the limits of say a GT3076 on an RB25.

The fact that the Stagea ecu runs the auto is not a problem - it works perfectly well on a manual but the fact that it has 3 rows of pins is a bit of a problem - R34 ecu doesn't work so yes look for a S2 R33 loom and a z32 ecu.