KiwiRS4T

Seems to be more room in Stagea engine bay than Skyline. Will make sure its OK!

A sway bar is more properly called an anti-roll bar. In a straight line it has virtually no effect as the left and right move in unison. When turning left or right the bar becomes twisted and it is the resistance to this twisting effect that tends to keep the car more level - so no, it won't give you a harsher ride.

Massive increase in rear sway bar from skinny hollow one to 24mm solid was the biggest single improvement in handling on my S1! (Used to be called BNR11XXZ 24mm)

I think so! Good thing about putting RB30 in Stagea is the extra height available compared to a Skyline. Also have FF plenum so all that stuff is gone from top of engine.

Trial fitting my Sinco Customs manifold on to the RB30

Just use the box and leave the Stagea diffs for now. GTS4 axles are 6x1 bolt pattern Stagea are 3x2. You should be able to reuse the auto drive shaft and gearbox mount.

Trial fitted my Sinco Customs manifold to the RB30 block

You can but it will be even lower geared than stock (better for drags i guess) whereas i would have liked to go the other way with an R34 GTR diff (3.545:1). Stock GTR (R32 or R33) is 4.1 near enough to stock Stagea (4.08). However on the positive side the GTS4 axles are GTR strength if you change them over as well. You could use the GTS4 box though. The GTR gearbox has a stronger transfer case than the Stagea - I don't know about the GTS4 transfer case.

^^^as above - just a more sophisticated version of the old SAFC. You would be far better to get a Nistune chip for your ecu - that will not only control afrs but also timing, remove speed limit etc etc.

If you plan to keep the car for many years and have $10k plus to spend get an RB30 from Rips http://www.ripsltd.com/ for example: RB30 Stock internal bottom ends, with RIPS modifications, fully refreshed NZD$3,500 rwd or $4,750 4wd including adapter plate kit (suit up to 600hp and 7200 rpm) which is half the price of the rebuilt engine quote you got above or search the RB30 threads for a reliable aussie builder. The extra torque will make your Stagea pull away hard from idle and depending on what you ask for it will support 300-350awkw easily (or more if you're keen and rich). You will need a decent front mount and turbo etc as well as an e-manage or chipped ecu or better still get a GTR box and a Link computer. Its better to think where you want to go rather than go through various stages incurring more expense at every point (like I did!). Don't forget to budget for GTT brakes (or better) and some decent suspension. Read the Stagea section and do a search for Duncans RB30 powered Stagea. If you decide to go for the RB30 PM me and I will give you the full details for my (almost finished) RB30 build.

OK but that's still cheaper than a $20K Tomei stroker kit. On the other hand you can buy RB30 blocks on TradeMe in NZ for about $200 and if you could get two or three and get a freight forwarder to include them in a container to the US shipping for the lot should be under $1000. -Or just buy a ready to go short block from Rips http://www.ripsltd.com/ and he will arrange shipping.

That ecu number is for a Series 1 C34 Stagea turbo auto with what the Skyline people would call a S2 RB25DET. What you need is an RB20 actuator for your turbo which will give you around 10 psi or just use a cheap bleed style boost controller (or an expensive electronic one if you have the means!).

Where are you? Sinco customs in NZ. Wastegate should be set up for the most direct gas flow so off the turbo housing is usually ideal if you have the room.

Probably somebody "lubricating" them.

Intake shouldn't be a problem althouigh a highflow filter for the stock airbox would be a good idea. Bigger turbo back exhaust definitely a good idea. I don't have an M35 but I believe the fly by wire accelerator is not as sharp as it could be.

They look interesting. Has anyone got some side feed ones for RB25DET non neo? Any modifications required?

GTR bov is a good cheap upgrade. Flange is the same but hose needs to be bigger.

Yes of course...or one of Rob's http://www.ripsltd.com/

If you want to build the ultimate Stagea you will have to go north of 600awkw (not 600hp) to beat Psymin's ultimate Stagea. He used a 2.8 stroker kit but bang for buck Rb30 will get youi there cheaper - see Spool or Proengines or RIPs: http://www.ripsltd.com/

How long is a piece of string? Depends on what is wrong with your engine (rings, bearings, valve grind etc or full recondition) and what standard result you want - stock standard or fully forged - say $4K to $15K

Clean and gap or replace plugs check coils for cracks, shorting.

There will be soemone wanting to swap their manual car for your auto - much better solution than you convert your car to auto and someone buys your box to convret theirs to manual.

Good price is not the point - you want someone who knows what they are doing. Give Yavuz a ring at Unigroup Engineering

Here is SKs article again: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...m-B-t73824.html If you are not absolutely confident that you have the timing correct than please take it to a competent workshop if there is one in your city - you don't want to redo all the last few weeks' work.

My handbook just says "high octane unleaded". I take that to mean 100 but get as close as you can... 98??