KiwiRS4T

More like 255, 265 - you only need 8in rims for 235.

No

Real men do it themselves (I don't). It is fairly straightforward but fiddly. Be prepared to snap studs and have to replace them.

Try ebay - there are some Japanese people advertise there or posibly ebay.au - quite a bit of RB stuff.

You have a 2wd or are you getting the crownwheel and pinion changed over?

Massive increase in rear sway bar to 24mm solid helps! Also have 20mm spacers (maximium legal in NZ) on front.

Personally I would go with the GTT smic. It will cost you about $50 and you can fit it yourself with the original hoses. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...age-t69501.html You will only get heat soak after half an hour on the dyno or if you do full boost drags from light to light all round town. Boosting on the open road the airflow will keep it cool. If you decide you want more than 200 -210 kw you are going to be spending thousands of dollars and then you may want to buy a proper front mount but if you are on a budget hang on to your money for now. I made 220awkw with a smic including track days. The only time it got too hot was on the dyno(it was a nismo, slightly better than the GTT) but you will be OK at 200 - 210 with the GTT sidemount.

Going by Jason's handy chart it looks as though most Stageas are 4.083 apart from the manual S2 so if that's what you've got then its a 4.111 viscous lsd - wrong ratio and viscous aren't all that flash either. However if you are happy with the viscous diff then you will need to change front and rear. At least that way if the rear lsd packs up you can get a GTR one (also 4.111) - or other aftermarket lsd - and the front will still be right

GTR have 6x1 bolt pattern for the half shafts Stagea are 3X2Be sure to post up your times!

Surely you can get him to modify it a little?

Can't say for sure but I think they are the same: just under 4.1 I'm going for a GTR diff partly for the thicker axles (and also because the engine is out anyway I can change both). So I guess you haven't snapped any axles yet?!

I think mine is Greddy but there are about three brands available - they make WGN34 specific ones - don't know about M35. If you keep the correct allen key handy they take less than a minute to remove if you need the space.http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...l&hl=greddy

I am sure it would be possible to make something like that but its not clear what you want it for. According to this site you can buy M10, M12 or M14: http://www.tein.com/online_shop/wrench.html

In my opinion subframe locking bushes are only good for the track. There they help you to get power down earlier coming out of a corner. On the road they are of little use and just amplify the diff rumble - especially in a wagon. In the instructions they say to put them on for track days and then remove them but although they are not that hard to do I can't be stuffed with that and just leave them on. Front castor arms are good - with more castor you get straightline stability at high speeds. Is your rear sway bar the 24mm solid item?

The last question, no. The first, try posting on the Stagea forumhttp://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ussion-f82.html

What engine do you have?The answers are here: http://www.deniliquinsportingcarclub.com/i...on&Itemid=9

http://www.libertysgears.com/rb25-26.htm

This is an R33 one (Mitsubishi) This is an R34 CAS -(Hitachi) does it match your part number? I don't think the wrong one would engage properly with the drive on the end of the cam so if it fits ok you could just try reversing the wiring. R34 CAS pin 1 = earth pin 2 = power pin 3 = 1 deg pin 4 = 120 deg R33 Cas pin 1 = 120 pin 2 = 1 pin 3 = power pin 4 = earth And making it easier basically showing that: 1 swaps with 4 2 swaps with 3 3 swaps with 2 4 swaps with 1

Get an ecutalk or other consult reader and get some idea of what is going on - injector duty, afm readings (can you swap out the afm with someone?) And get a Nistune chip so that you can actually try to tune it. It will also help to identify problems.

Running in will only take half an hour. Get your new turbo now in case you need modifications to the front pipe. Get a full set of bearings GTR or neo rods (they are the same) and better rod bolts. Porting and polishing is not good value for money at this stage - spend the money on an ecu. Check the valves and valve seats, seals.

GCG highflow was great - got 245awkw and probably could have made 260 but now installing an RB30 (long and boring delays ...) and looking for better than 300awkw with poss more later!

Are you sure the new CAS is the same as the old? There is one with a plastic cover and one with a metal cover and the wiring for one is the mirror image of the other so reversing the wires from the plug will be necessary in that case.

If your engine builder has measured all your bores and pistons and is convinced the other 5 have a good amount of life still you may as well go with the quote. If you were ever thinking of going RB30 now is the time but it would involve quite a bit more money to be honest. Your block rebuilt with quality rings and bearings should be ok for the 260 more or less? kw you were looking at some time ago.

Nistune is about $360, Z32 ecu $100 (or maybe more if this is getting to be a popular mod) and a tune can be anywhere from a few hundred dollars upwards depending on how thorough they are. Better not to skimp on the tune.

Over 290awkw - should be a flyer! Any plans for a 1/4mile time?