KiwiRS4T

Looks very clean and straight - some extra guages - what other mods ??

Tuning rich at WOT is not really going to affect your everyday fuel consumption and if you're tracking an RB of any sort petrol is the least of your worries! Keeping the engine alive is the number 1 priority for most!

Does your afm need a clean? Can you swap out with someone else to test? Get a boost guage - you can just run the tube through the door to get a reading but good idea to get one fitted anyway. You will benefit from getting a Nistune (not too complicated as you have a manual ) or look out for a cheap pfc. (... and of course a tune from a GOOD tuner).

I don't have my car here at the moment but I have a pinout chart that lists pin 31 as G/O (presumably green/orange).

GT Autos in Brisbane are alleged to be F-Con tuners - give them a ring to check.

Try reversing the toggles - it can be hard to tell whether they are supposed to be up or down. 1,2, up 345 down 6up 7 down 8 up set arrow to #4. And you have double checked the wiring? All tapped in except the afm signal which is cut. The pinout diagram is for an R33 so you will need to use this one: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a31087-

Stock will run all day at 7000. Is it fully balanced? If you want to change at 7K then 7200 sounds like it would do.

Your ecu is not tunable. Do a search for the alternatives. Stick your stock bov back on.

If you can buy the wreck at a good price (assuming most of the components are Ok) you could get yourself an RS4T and transfer all the good bits over.

You will find the settings for the Laurel C34 and Skyline R33 are the same - use those as Chook says. When you have done that you should set all the knobs to zero until you can get a wideband meter or preferably have it tuned on a dyno by someone who has. For best results you should now try to track down an Apexi SITC to adjust the timing. But a Greddy E-manage would be better.

Maltech do them but the ones they sent me were a little short and I only just got them to fit.. They would need another original set for a template to make sure they are right.

Did this problem exist before the bushes were replaced? Is everything bolted up properly? Doubt it would be the abs or power steering. To eliminate the abs you could pull the fuse and retry. Had the wheels balanced lately? Jack up the front and check for wheel bearing play. Do you have access to a lathe where you could measure run out on the rotors? Stockers can easily get warped with hard use. Try cleaning up the pads and ensuring there is a chamfer on the leading edge.

Staggered fitment 8.5in front and 10in rears may cause problems for your Attessa. Can you fit 20 x 10in inside your guards? Yes you will need tyres that big and they will not be cheap.

Yes please. I have my boost guage in the RH centre vent but don't really want to lose the whole vent. I would like oil pressure and temp as well and poss water temp (stock one is not very accurate).

Do someone with an auto S1 a favour and sell them the E-manage - they can't really use Nistune. For you Nistune will be neater and better!

GCG are in Sydney. I presume Nismo ecus are like Mines? Just a chipped stocker and not tunable? I see someone with an M35 has an Impul -is that tunable? Greddy E-Manage is tried and tested so should do you OK. BTW if you are upgrading the injectors forget the new fpr.

and don't run a boost contoller without a boost guage!

The losses are not a percentage but a number e.g. 25kw for auto 25kw for awd etc. People who think they are making say 30% more at the fly than they are getting at the wheels are most likely being wildly optomistic at higher power levels. In any case the only really useful figure is the one you are making at the wheels v the last figure you were making at the wheels on the same dyno.

For brake fluid: Motul RB600

E85 is not available in NZ - E10 is the only readily available fuel unless you want to pay for Q16 which is not that convenient and also expensive.Re engines: Simon, who built the 600kw "Psymin" Stagea has taken all the good gear out of the car and put it in an R32 GTR which as you can imagine is even faster. He says that his next project will be with a VK56 (5.6L dohc V8).

Why are you pulling the engine out? How many km has it done? If you're going to take the sump off (and the head?) you may as well do rings and bearings. Replace and correctly torque the tensioner bolt when you do the cam belt etc.

Bite the bullet and get an aftermarket ecu now - Link, Vipec, PFC whatever. Then you can put boost up to 10psi and the car will run heaps better. Later when you want the bigger turbo etc etc you will be able to tune for it.

They work on highly modded (500kw) motors too but in Australia tuners are few and far between so best avoid.

I'm using redline shockproof lightweight in my (R33 GTR) box.

A 300kw M35 - a nice combination!!