KiwiRS4T

230awkw is not too shabby - your overtaking should be much easier! In my auto I timed it from 80 to 120 which you will easily do in 2nd gear ( I did it accelrating through 80 rather than flooring it at 80 just becasue its eaier to get it right).. I would guess you would be doing it in 3-4 seconds now. How much boost are you running now? Post up your chart in the RB25 dyno results in the forced induction section along with you list of mods. Do you have E10 available in your area? (E85 is a whole other story).

And when you're done still get the Nistune as without it the car can't be tuned at all!!

Ring around for best price on bushes ( they can be quite expensive). A good suspension shop should have a machine to test your shocks or you could do it youreslf: push each corner up and down a couple of times and let go on the down stroke - it should pop up and stop - if it keeps on going up and down the shocks are shot. The original springs should still be OK but if you need new shocks common or garden variety should be fine - you probably don't want adjustables as it sounds like your'e not planning any track work- cheap adjustables are cr*p and you won't want to pay unnecessarily to get top quality ones. Better than stock shocks would be a set of Bilsteins which will handle better and can also be recondtioned in the future .A heavier rear sway bar would be good.

You haven't looked very far. There are heaps in the RB30 dyno results thread. On the first page there are people with stock rods making 450kw, 371kw, and the first of Rips at 447kw. NB I will be limiting mine to 6800rpm and using 6500 as the working maximum.

As above . Its mainly a number not a percentage. For example for my Stagea driveline losses are estimated at 70kw for auto and awd which is a big proportion from stock (say 40% but when i was making 245awkw it would be only about 22%

Go back to some early posts pointing out that rods are the same size as some V8 items. Email Robbie at Rips for his estimate of the limit for stock rods - I suspect he will think they are OK for 350kw. My engine has stock rods but with new rod bolts and bearings but it hasn't been fired up yet. Looking for 300 - 350 awkw.

Vipec or Link would be nice but there seems to be another problem. Can you get them to drop the exhaust off on the dyno and see what diffference that makes?

I prefer my S1 C34 ( would have preferred an S2) but if you're absolutely determined to keep it stock may as well get an M35 - more modern etc etc but probably not quite as much towing capacity.

Some S2 have six airbags.

Consensus seems to be 300rwkw is the point where you need to be looking for a new exhaust manifold. Don't get a cheap Stainless one - get a 6boost or a Sinco customs:

You can buy me a set as well! Mind you the tyres are going to cost an arm and a leg too!

As above G/O

Nistune all the way for S2. Complete tunability, remove speed limit etc etc. Anything else you will only want to upgrade later. Fuel economy? What's that?

1. 80mm turbo back exhaust and high flow panel filter = $1k gone2. Save up for a Nistune chip and tune.

Insufficient fuel (running lean). Test with a fuel pressure guage. Should be about 3 bar at idle and rise an amount equivalent to the increase in boost.

GCG are in Sydney as well

Depends what you want to acheive and on what mods you have done already. If you want more power up the boost. Poncams are said to run nicely on the Rb25DET but I'd rather spend the money on a new turbo. If you don't go for the cams an adjustable exhaust cam gear will give a small midrange improvement.

I use E10 (Gull) . Even at 10% it seems to clean out your fuel system so just replace the filter a couple of times and you should be right.

You could measure the signal from your afm with a multimeter. Turn the safc to zero and it should output the same figure.

I looked into doing this but found enough info on Gogle to put me off. There is a reason why these conversions are illegal in most countries and that is that the headlamps are not designed for them and so although they are very bright to look at a lot of light is scattered so as to dazzle oncoming traffic. If you have a car that had them originally but had them ripped out by compliance people then it would be OK to restore them but otherwise not unless you fit a suitable complete headlamp.

Sell the R32 ecu and buy a Z32 one (probably cheaper than getting a seperate switch).Then nistune that. Google "how does variable cam timing work" for a wealth of info

Best keep the boost down til you get a Nistune chip (or other aftermarket ecu). Then you can run 12psi but better still get Z32 afm and bigger and run more boost!!

You don't want some , only one. Inlet is best to leave vct to do its job - people have tried to no avail. On exhaust side typically on an RB25DET with stock cams 4deg retarded will improve midrange with poss some small cost at top end.(from personal experience with my rb25det with GCG highflow).

Are they twin pot front and single rear? If so they are probably not worth anything - I threw out my stock Stagea brakes - couldn't get a bid on them.