KiwiRS4T

??pictures are all in post #1

Might be easier to get a response if you post the numbers up!

Good return! I am sure you will find car feels quite zippy with 200kw v stock!

Intank Bosch is 040. Shouldn't need fpr or new fuel rail (unless you're getting some odd-ball injectors).

The issue with the Mines is quite simple. It is not user tunable just as you can't tune a stock ecu. You can tune with a PFC or Nistune (or a Link/ViPec, Motec, etc ).

If you can get a part number (and a picture) for the relay i have a box full of relays and resistors and other odd little electrical boxes left over from my wrecked car!

Changing the plugs as suggested would seem an easy thing to do. Did the guy who sold you the injectors have a receipt for the work? I bought a set of second hand injectors recently and had them flow tested - turned out to be cr*p.

If it were me I would get another R33 loom from someone wrecking a car.

Even just the face plate would be great.

I am not a Mines "hater". If you live in Japan and can take your car to Mines and get them to make a chip for your car that would be fine. But buying one off ebay and sticking it in your car is like a lottery. For some people it works better than their stock ecu but for others it may either be worse or else it may be bettr but not optimal. I have had a chipped R32 ecu running my RB25DET (245awkw) but my car was tuned on a dyno and the chip tailor made for my application. People like Toshi make mail order chips for people who list their mods and these will work better than the stock ecu and he has many happy customers, but I would never buy one because i want my tune to be spot on.

I presume you are going to change the fluid when you get the shift kit. The brown colour means it has overheated and is no good.

Just because you tried two different ecus that doesn't mean they are not the problem. You need one tunable ecu, no safc and get it tuned right on your car. You need a Link ( available directly from the factory http://www.linkecu.com/) or someone who can make a chip for your car tuned on the car. The people who did the original wiring were not very "professional" if they gave it back to you not running properly. Then you also need to find a top quality tuner.

I wouldn't bother. I was making 220awkw with a smic including track days. Granted it was a Nismo one, slightly more efficient than the R34 stocker but at your output you should be fine. Wait til you get the monster turbo and then go straight for a quality front mount.

Put the stock radiator back! But seriously take your thermostat out and test it in a jug adding hot water till it opens - or since you have gone to the trouble of pulling it out just put a new one in anyway. You should get a rough idea of how hot your motor is by the output of the heater. If there is nothing wrong with your thermostat try blanking off two thirds of your radiator for the winter.

There is a shortage of hard evidence on coilpacks. The stockers have the track record. Splitfires are getting a track record over a few years now. I have bought a set of Yellowjackets on the basis of bench tests i have seen but they still have to prove the lasting qualities. The red ones appear to be lesser quality but again time will tell.

Quite a bit! But it varies from dealer to dealer. You need to lnow someone who can get trade prices to get you a quote.

Wihout wishing to knock Splitfires all you are really saying is "if your coils are stuffed putting new ones in will make your car run better". What would be more useful to know is stories of failures. We know that the Nissan coils are good for around 15 years (and I have seen two examples recently of people who have forked out for new stockers on the strength of this i guess) so it would be good to know how long before Splitfires, Yellowjackets, DSRs and other aftermarket coils start failing.

Well nistune don't do the R33 as yet to my knowledge (although there are ways around this) but: Mines ecu Toshi ecu Dr Drift ecu EFI ecu What do these have in common? They have been modified (some sort of daughterboard installed) to accept a tuned chip. What are the differences? Mines is in Japan, the second two in Australia and EFI is right there in your home town of Christchurch and therefore the only one who can tune the chip on your car on the dyno. As I recall early on in the piece you actually went to EFi and they offered you a price to replace the fuel pump, fit a fmic and chip and tune your ecu. This is still your best option although you didn't want to pay the money. You could have done the fmic and pump yourself to save money although it sounds as though you would be best to leave it to the professionals. EFI have a good reputation as a performance workshop and as tuners and if they did the work they would fix any boost leaks and tell you if there were any other problems that need fixing. (PS my RB25 would still make 245awkw with the o2 sensor disconnected so while it is good to replace it if it is dud don't expect that to make any difference to your power problems).

There are millions of words written on this subject on this site and elsewhere. Google "Bosch v Walbro" for a start.

Nistune is still the cheapest and best - last I heard you still had an auto? Whatever you do don't get a "cheap" tune. Investment in a good tuner will maximise the benefits of the other money you have spent and increase the chances that your motor will not go bang!

PM sentBTW Castor rods are not off crashed car they are off my current car (fitted adjustables instead) ps Clock sold

The two main reasons for using a relay are 1. minimising voltage drop - using heavy cable shortest route between battery and load (pump) 2. Allowing all the other wiring and switches in the circuit except the relay to be relatively low amperage (inside the ecu etc)

Walbro do a Nissan kit which presumably comes with a new sock so maybe try your Walbro supplier for the sock. Stock fpr and injectors should be fine for 200kw. Rewire your Walbro as per the DIY threads - not just for more flow up top but for longer pump life.

Sell the car - you didn't read the advice you got on your last thread or else you would know why the Mines is not doing the job. You should have got EFI to chip the stock ecu and dynotune the car and got yourself a new fuel pump. If you still have the Mines ecu ask EFI if they can tune it and if not bin it.