KiwiRS4T

Ref the RB25 upgrade thread. Post 625 Lithium has been running around 270kw with his GT3076 on an unopened engine for years now at 301kw @ 17psi Post 629 Simon GT3076 310 kw @ 17psi

Looks like there's not enough height - you may have to go to van type vehicle. Another consideration would be the loading height?

Just looking at a list of about 64 sub 10 second cars ( the 10sec list would be more relevant to this thread but Performance Car mag doesn't list them anymore) and about a third are awd (GTRs, evos, wrxs) . Nissans include: Reece McGegor R32 GTR 7.57 @ 306km/hr Adam Wigg R34 7.85@ 264 Robbie Ward (RIPS) 240Z 7.86 @ 285 Glenn Suckling R32 GTR 7.91 @ 291 Robbie Ward R34 GTR 9.46 @ 251 Stu Rogers C33 Laurel 9.5 @ 222 Ben Cox Datsun 1200! 9.87 @ 229

I wouldn't bother with the intercooler. If you can get an R34 smic for cheap stick it in. Never mind earthing the solenoid - just bypass it and get 10psi.

Would have thought you would be making more like 260 - 270kw with that setup. Without knowing your tuner or his workshop I would blame him first. He should be able to tell you why he can't get more power i.e. what needs to be done to fix the problem. i do remember a thread by Guilt Toy where he said that the Pfc gives false knock readings but I thought that was at a higher level. Was your car tuned by the local workshop or is the tuner well known and recommended? there is a huge difference between a mechanic who knows how to use a PFC and a top tuner.

The issue with the fuel pump is not how much it can pump but that it is old. Just get a new Walbro and wire it to full battery voltage. Then upgrade your smic to an R34 one - you can get them for $100 and its a job you can do yourself - and spend your money on a rechipped ecu tuned on your car from EFI ( or ask them if they can retune your Mines ecu - if not ...ditch it). I have made 220kw with a sidemount - your next limitation is the stock turbo which you should limit to 10 -12psi so no need for a fmic until you upgrade the turbo.

the makers plate on my auto says 4 = 4.083 (near enough to 4.1) which is pretty standard for most Stageas (except 260RS). Have a look at yours to see if it says 4.3 or anything radically different. If you jack your car up you may find a stamp or a tag with the ratio on the diff.

I had a GCG highflow and it was fine. Bolted straight back in and looked completely stock. But it cost just over $1800 for the BB version (even with the SAU discount) which is why I would consider a GT3076 instead although it would need at least a spacer and maybe some new lines made up and cost a few hundred more...worth it if you are considering going RB30 some-time down the line. Have heard good things about the Hypergear rebuilds - mostly journal bearings but half the price!

Second on the auto will do 120 so its good for fast 80 -120 times. I got mine down from 7.5 sec stock to near enough 3 seconds flat. Should do it again with the RB30 although a gear change is necessary with the manual.

Was that an optional Nissan viscous lsd or an aftermarket other brand?

32 would be fine. If I have 5 people plus their luggage i might put 36 in the back. When i first went on the track I put 45 psi in my street tyres but they were still not up to it so i went to semi slicks and then slicks. So no they won't explode if you put 45 psi in but there is absolutely no point in doing so. You will just wear out the middle of the tread.

That pretty much accords with my 2600 @110 so your diff will be stock and the slight extra speed could be larger diameter wheels.

Sorry its the "V"thats 2wd. Instructions as above! If you let the level get low enough the 4wd light will come on. Stagea Atessa is hydraulically actuated and controlled by a seperate computer. Earlier Skyline ones were mechanical.

If your "S" is 2wd then the reservoir should be for the hicas. Presumably you still check it with the engine running and use a quality atf. Or you can fit a hicas lock bar and rip all that stuff out.

What?????????

There is little difference in the stock specifications: R33 GTR 4.111:1 Stagea 4.083:1 although there have been rumours of Stageas being found with diffs with higher gearing and a mechanical rather than viscous LSD. I don't know if these were odd diffs that were lying around the factory or whether Japanese owners changed them before they were exported second hand. Maybe someone with access to Nissan Fast and time on their hands could have a look to see if any other final drive ratios are listed. I would asume that the 260RS would have the GTR diffs (4.111:1).

Yes the S1 cradle looks a bit different to yours and the pump is quite a lot bigger in diameter than the Walbro. Looks like I'll have to sus out photobucket - thanks.

Good tutorial. As the Walbro was smaller than the stocker on my S1 I wrapped it in a sleeve and cable tied it to the cradle. A good idea to use the opportunity to directly wire the pump to get full 13.5v (there are a couple of tutorials on this in the skyline section). One question that I have been meaning to ask (being computer inadequate): How do you get full sized ( or at least 96% full sized) photos into your post? I only seem to get the option of small thumbnails!

Are you sure your S2 is that high geared? When I had the auto box my S1 was doing about 2600rev/min at 110km/hr. That would give a theoretical maximum of 296 at 7000 I would think a stocker would be struggling to do much more than 200 Our final drive is about 4.1 :1 I have got a 3.454:1 front diff and will get a matching rear diff to reduce the revs at 110 to more like 2200 (and increase the theoretical maximum to well over 320!)

Here's another G35: http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/2003_I...i_G35_Sedan_ECU

You can buy a plug in Link (a ViPec is a rebadged Link) straight from the factory in New Zealand for about NZ$2000: http://www.linkecu.com/ or there are US distributors: http://www.linkecu.com/dealers/dealersusa Oh OK I see you are not in the US - well just get one from NZ and get the tuning software as well and tune it with a laptop - assuming you have all the gear - wideband afr meter, ex temp guage, etc etc ...dyno?

Also assumes you have an aftermarket ecu or have otherwise got rid of your 180k speedcut!

My car has done over 200 on the front straight at Hampton Downs and when the RB30 is installed should be good for 220 -240. I have a Jaycar speedo corrector Mk2 (KC5435) unit which should work to 300km/hr. Haven't had time yet to look for a face plate or get one made. If you want a Jaycar unit get in quick i think they are discontinued. If anyone locates a face plate, manual or auto that reads to 300 or 320 please let me know!

the Whiteline reference for the rear sway bar is BNR11XX (24mm solid). You may be able to find someone to make one in 24mm solid bar by using your stock one as a pattern. A GT3076 is about $2000 new or a little less second hand. I personally wouldn't bother with a Chinese copy for a turbo or an exhaust manifold (I do have a Chinese copy of the GReddy FF plenum).

This appears to be Dan Watt's work:M35_VQ25DET_pinouts.doc.pdf