KiwiRS4T

With minimal mods a manual S2 would be a great family car. 1. A high flow filter for the stock air box ($100) 2. A 3in turbo back exhaust ($900 - $1000) 3. A Nistune chip for the ecu ($900 fitted and tuned) 4. Heavy rear sway bar ($360) That would drive nicely although another grand on a set of Bilsteins lowered just 20mm or so would be good but not essential!

You need a 20L container of a good synthetic atf which you can use in the Atessa, auto and power steering. Do a bit of searching there were full instructions on changing the Atessa fluid not long ago. Trans oil should not leak from back of box.

Power FC $1500 Link $2000 ++ Nistune chip c$350 + fitting and tune will be perfect for your car. But looking at your mods just a high performance cat should do the trick with the stock ecu.

Yep just got the confirmation email. If you don't get one soon contact JPNZ as you may have signed up using an email address that you no longer have.

Switch to right of steering column

These people are Link agents and have a dyno so they will be able to tune your ViPec. No idea how good they are: http://www.motsons.com.au/

I am using a pipercross PX-PP128. they are available in Australia same filter fits late model wrx. Cheaper than K&N. Used for two years - no problem with stock or Z32 afm.

If its like a C34 pickup is on the right hand side and steeply cambered road can be enough to starve the pump. Try more petrol. Also could have sucked up cr*p from the bottom of tank. Fuel filter in engine bay is easy to change ...the one in the tank a little more work. Can you hear the pump trying to prime when you turn the key to the ignition on without cranking the starter??

I bought a new set of "yellow jackets" for my new engine although my stockers were still working perfectly at 245kw and 16psi. I'll see if I can find them. let me know if you can't find any closer and I'll post you mine for the price of the postage. Have you tried a set of copper plugs gapped at 0.8mm?

You need to 1. try using the search function 2. read the diy in the stagea section and also the skyline section. You will find things like: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Z3...=z32+afm+wiring and (for stagea remove spare wheel cover and the floor panel to its right): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...mp-t253097.html (walbro is simpler but you get the idea)

OK here's a manual for sale: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-291741276.htm

I have one. Could be hard to post as in order to prevent it being damaged in transit quite a bit of packaging could be necessary. If you don't get one soon I will get you a price.

NO 350mm

Yep the kit includes windscreen heater - the mirror heaters are controlled by the rear screen demister switch.

have you got a boost controller or a DFA? The boost controller doesn't need to be set on a dyno. Is it installed and wired up? Any shop should be able to tune a DFA - in principle its the same as a SAFC and they might just take a few minutes to read the instructions if they haven't seen one before.

Pukekohe used to be the main racetrack for Auckland. The Aussie supercars used to have a round there (its at a Hamilton Street circuit at the moment. Sorry I don't have any times - maybe contact Simon direct. There is no doubt that his car is fast by any standards (despite the modest 1/4 mile times) but it cost him megabucks and many hours to build.

Obviously it depends on how much boost you run. If you want to run 12psi (max recommended for stock turbo) you may run into problems. First get the full turbo back exhaust then look into a Nistune chip for your ecu.

GT3076 will be perfect for 280kw. I'm surprised to see you say they are common on 2L engones - some people think they are too big for an RB25 but at 280kw you will be fine. You say that people buy ebay turbos don't have any trouble. I am sure that those who buy them and have them blow up in short order don't boast about it. 2nd hand and china copies are a lottery - you may be lucky. I would rather save up a few more dollars and do it once.

I prefer to bypass the stock boost solenoid rather than earth it. You can adjust boost by altering the diameter of a restrictor in the bleed line or with an aftermarket boost controller. Power dip at 5000 rev/min seems to be a feature of the rb25det ecu and shows up on lots of dyno charts. You can tune it out with aftermarket ecu or nistune etc.

Relocation kit for oil filter would be handy as its a messy job otherwise - if you get an oil cooler consider getting one with a thermostat as otherwise you may be running too cold much of the time. S2 trans cooler is much better than S1 and probably adequate.

Reason Psymin's car was doing 12s was it was wheelspinning most of the time. I'm sure it could do better with Micky Thompson Drag tyres and maybe a slightly different suspension set up. It was very fast around Pukekohe. My S1 is lowered on Bilsteins, has heavy sway bars, adjustable camber, pineapples, semi slicks (now slicks) on the track and handles heaps better than stock but was still getting passed by little cars with half my horsepower on the track. I enjoy having a completely stock looking wagon which will have 300 -400kw by the time I am finished. the only reason I don't build a track car is I am too poor.

Psymins 500 - 600kw Stagea was only doing 12s on street tyres. The Stagea is a big lump of metal and it can be made to outrun other family wagons and be fun to drive but it will never be a competitive circuit car. On the road 260kw is very quick but not as quick as a hotted up rotary or some 400kw Honda. If you have the time and energy ( and money) stick an RB30 in your Stagea and keep it for a fast cruising tow car and build an R32GTR for serious performance.

Can't find the source but read somewhere that there were about 1000 S1 made and 700 S2.

Bosch 040 flows more will probably last longer. In either case directly wire them (at least 2 tutorials in Skyline section). I had good results from my GCG (ball bearing) highflow but some people have had good results from hypergear which is quite a bit cheaper - have a read of the threads in the forced induction section. Not a bad idea to save up for the lot and do it all at once (although you could do the fuel pump asap) so then you are only getting one tune. I don't know where you live but get a really good specialist tuner - not just the shop that installs the turbo etc. A good tuner can get the best out of your mods while minimising the odds of blowing up!

Get a nistune chip for your ecu and plumb in your bov and all will be tunable. Or get a Link ecu which uses a map sensor.