KiwiRS4T

How much boost are you running now Dave? have you installed a Nistune chip? If you are running 1 bar with a decent tune you should be making well over 200awkw poss up to 210- 220.

How much power is enough? 250 - 270 awkw is plenty for an exciting road car. If you can get 300kw from your set up you can stop right there. For the track or drags there is never enough. The Stagea will never be a competetive circuit car and if you want to race regularly you would be better to build a dedicated track car. Because I am old and poor I am using my Stagea on the track just for fun and will get a 1/4 mile time just to see what it is but again it will never be a competitive racer. If you do want to change your engine RB30 is the way to go. I recently saw a Tomei stroker kit going for 20K. A VL block is $200 or the real deal from Rips $5000. The head is not so important so long as you have a decent turbo. I have got a GT3540 which will take me as far as I want to go. I am using an RB25DE (n/a) head because it is cheap, has big ports and vvt. AN RB26 head would be better for obvious reasons but cost 10x as much. if you want the sound of an RB26 screaming at 10,000 rev minutes (and it is exciting) you will be paying through the nose for the privilege. An RB30 will give you the same power with heaps of low down torque for a fraction of the price.

I can sell you one for AU$100 posted (5 - 7 days from NZ).

Do the compression test with the hot engine and try the oil trick. If you do pull it down and find it needs a rebore and you want forged rods and pistons etc to make big power later it will cost thousands. Do the costings on parts and machining and then consider an RB30 block from RIPS: http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html

Quite possible the fluid has never ben changed. Get some Motul RBF600.

Well done. Where did you get the kit from and can you just buy the brackets?

Hugh you can have my RS4 badge as I am debadging mine! Seen this?: http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/s...a/1996_9/21861/ and it appears neo engined ones like my first S1 came out in late 97 but the 96 n/a is quite zippy anyway.

You are right . Here is a video of the transfer case (shows internals as well): http://www.2009gtr.com/2009/07/nissan-skyl...esa-system.html Low speed scraping is often the brakes?

For your S2 Nistune is the answer - cheaper too.

Or just use the stop watch on your phone.

Redline anti shock gearbox oil seems to do the job.

245 max, 235 perfect for 8in.

+1 for the ecu talk http://www.ecutalk.com/ you can get just the cable or the display as well. Looking at the ebay job it looks like it will probably work only on very late neos as most have consult only and not OBD.

The post you quoted against going manual is way too negative. The only bit that is true is that you will probably not get any money back for it but that applies to any any mod that you do. My manual conversion with R33 Gtr box, handbrake and pedals cost NZ$2000 incl labour. People have done it themselves for under $1000. If you were silly enough to want to pay the $7500 quoted you may as well buy a manual car instead. Anyway the OP is looking at an already converted car and there is no downside to having a manual except you will need a new clutch every few years.

Bear in mind RSFOURUK that most of the world uses km/hr not miles/hour. But it still looks a bit quick to me.

You can't fix the rust under the mirrors problem from the outside. There is a good tutorial on pulling off the door cards and pulling out the bit of foam that soaks up water and either replacing it with something water resistant or drying it out and waterproofing it.

Have you had a drive? I would snap it up being a manual. A stock RS4T would probably not overwhelm you but a manual opens up a whole world of relatively inexpensive mods and a new or chipped computer ...although i would gues sthat someone who has gone to the trouble of putting in a manual box has already done a few performance mods.

Jetwreck how much boost are you running? Will the new ecu be a rechipped stocker or something else entirely??

Top result. Onwards and upwards!

Here's an 11.7 sec run:

If you clicked on the link (no pun intended) supplied above you would find the G4 extreme costs another NZ$1000 (so about another AU$750) more than the plugin.

We are waiting for you to set the standard! Psymin's 550kw Stagea has only run 12s - not set up for drags.

Not necessarily. Boost is just pressure. If you stick a crappy intercooler on which doesn't flow as well as the one it replaced then you will need more boost (=more pressure) to move the same amount of air(flow) through it

Heavier rear swaybar is the single best thing you can do to stop your Stagea floating around corners. For the RS4T (awd auto) you need a BNR11XX24mm (add a Z for adjustable). This is a solid steel 24mm bar and a huge upgrade. The label might be different but if you quote those references they should be able to find the equivalent. Installation as above (or check SKs supension thread). Don't forget to use the supplied lubricant on all the bushes.

Z32 and RB32 ecus plug into R33 Skylines but not into Stageas. You can make it work but unless you are good at wiring it is going to cost a lot of money ( I know, I've been there). My S1 now with manual box and Link ecu.