KiwiRS4T

It does make sense. The purpose of the bov is to relieve the pressure on the turbo not the throttle body so the closer to the turbo the better. When you close the throttle the turbo is still spinning and pumping air so opening a valve near the turbo is going to give the quickest relief.

There is obviously a market for someone to make a cd with sucky induction noise and noisy bov sound for those who are that way inclined to amuse themselves without detriment to the car's performance.

Sure you haven't run the hose from the bov return pipe?

You could probably run 10 psi ok but you'd be better to spend the money on a 3in turbo back exhaust as your 1st mod. You could get 10psi for free by bypassing the solenoid or just the better exhaust will give you more flow anyway.

I have seen wheels like that on the V35 Skyline in 17in

Have a look at my chart post# 372 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...html&st=360 The tuner had been fiddling with my IEBC - I fixed it afterwards and it holds 1 bar from 3000 - 7000 rev/min. The turbo is capable of more but I limited it to 1 bar because my engine was unopened stock. To make this power you mainly need 1. a decent turbo 2. z32 afm 3. bigger injectors 4. either a bigger smic (nismo, trust) or a fmic 5. 3in turbo back exhaust 6. Some means of tuning the engine and a good tuner. That's it really. You can have stock cams, fpr, bov ...I still have the stock airbox and snorkel (with a high flow panel filter). I ran an adjustable exhaust cam gear which gives more midrange punch but no extra topend max. I have changed the stock bov for a GTR one mainly as insurance. The stock fuel pump should be upgraded - I have an intank Walbro and I am installing a surge tank and 2nd pump (Bosch) for the track

Don't want to muddy the waters but just how much of an upgrade is R33 Brakes? How many pots what diameter and thickness of rotors?I have fitted R34Gtt brakes to my S1 with no problems - just pulling out the inserts like you said plus trimming the backing plate a little on the rears - bolts and lines all fitted fine. ps just reading back through the thread ... I guess you meant 33GTST.

That group buy was many years ago - i think you'll have to look for your own best deal! Unless your Stagea has done a hard 300,000km your stock springs should be fine with the Bilstein shocks. Height can be adjusted with the Bilsteins - no need for "lowering" springs.

It comes down to what you want. C34 if you want to build a performance machine so logically 260Rs first, then S2 because it has a neo engine and its easier to chip the ecu and lastly S1 for me because it was all i could afford ($4500 v $10,000 for an S2 or $20,000 for a 260RS). Luckily I prefer the look of the S1. M35 if you want a more modern family friendly car which you can make faster if you have heaps of money to import the bits from Japan. Some look awful, some really nice depending on the model and body kit etc.

You're dead right. I reckon 250 - 270 awkw is heaps for the street. Because i'm poor (can't afford more than 1 car) I am going RB30 looking for 330 awkw but that will be it. It's quite good on the track but so many less powerful smaller cars can perform well on the track. If my finances improve I too will be looking for an R32 GTR to do up for a dedicated track car.

Have a look at Simon's car in the "selling my Stagea in Australia" thread - he is running 557 awkw through ten inch wheels in his modified guards (and R33 box and transfer case).

I could be interested. PM sent

Here's the TradeMe listing with a comprehensive mod list and 20 pics: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-274442549.htm

Often the cause is a failed resistor - saw a how to fix in these Stagea pages some months ago.

I have heard that the stock wagon starts breaking axles at over 250kw so looking for GTR rear end for mine (although I won't be getting anywhere near 500kw). So suggest you get a 4wd and get some GTR drivetrain. Diffs are mostly around 4.1 to 1 Manual conversion would seem to be the best bet unless you want to prioritise drag racing in which case specially built auto would be the go.

If your car is stock you just put all the settings to zero.

Good try! It cost me over AU$1800 (plus a stock turbo) so I think AU$800 is a fair price. I will confirm the price when i have it out of the car and can confirm that it is in good nick.

No, stock GTST

Haven't done it myself got shock shop to do it and then alignment but its probably easier to pull them out and then you may need a spring compressor. Posssibly someone here has done it without pulling them out? My current ride height (bottom of guard to wheel centre) is 340 front 350 rear.

Just giving you a heads up for some bits I will be selling next week as I will just put them up in this forum for a few days and then stick them on TradeMe as i need the cash quickly to help pay for my upgrades! (Details in Stagea Parts Classified...)

Next week I will be pulling some bits off my Stagea and will need to sell them asap to pay for my new bits so have a look at these as I will put them up for sale on here for a few days and then stick them on TradeMe as I will need to sell quickly: GCG highflowed turbo (all new except for housing - steel wheels, ball bearings etc) rated at 450hp made 245awkw on my Stagea - straight bolt on replacement for S1 or S2 (or Skyline RB20 RB25) done about 10,000k (being replaced with GT3540) - $800 Z32 afm bought brand new (not from an old car) c/w used plug $200 Greddy (not cheap Chinese) adjustable exhaust cam gear $100 Postage would be about $20 -$25 anywhere in Au for the smaller items and about $90 for the turbo. When I have them off I will put up a for sale with pictures.

Yep like Dave says it should be plumbed back into the bov return pipe (as yours is a new installation you may have to make a fitting). There should be a restrictor in this line and adjusting the diameter of this restrictor will affect the range within which the solenoid operates so if the duty cycle is too high you can make the restrictor smaller or vice versa.

If you have Bilsteins you don't need to change your springs. You can adjust the height by moving the circlip up or down. If you have run out of grooves (only likely if you want an extremely low setting) you can get more grooves machined quite cheaply.

Sinco Customs NZ$1000 to $1200 depending om wastgate configuration.

Wastegate off the turbine housing is best to prevent boost creep. I have just had a manifold made up by Sinco Customs (similar to 6boost) but the wastegate comes off the turbo housing.