KiwiRS4T

I have a sender unit from an S1 Stagea (expect it would be the same as S2) fuel tank. Will post to anywhere in Australia for AU$80

All my instruments were playing up when i first got my latest S1. Speedo used to stick at a fixed speed - some instruments used to go to zero or maximum. I used to pull the bettery leads off and reconnect them and things would work for a while. It seems the connections at the back of the cluster dry out. I don't whether you can just pull the cluster out and touch up the connections with a soldering iron. Mine have stopped misbehaving for no apparent reason. Just to be sure though have a look under the car and check the speedo drive on the transfer box and the associated wiring

If you have a S2 you should get a Nistune chip - real value at about $350. If you have a S1 auto its quite a different story. It can be made tunable with a daughterboard and chip from someone like Toshi or Dr Drift but looking at getting on for $1000. Another option is GReddy E-manage which can be piggybacked on to your ecu.

PM or email me if you want to sell your old manual [email protected]

THANKS HEAPS, ALSO ALL MY ENGINE IS ORIGINAL STOK SO HOW DO I TURN UP THE BOOST ? By bypassing the stock boost solenoid and following the instructions as per SKs post (read post#37 & #40): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja....html&st=20 and do not exceed 10 - 12 psi. For best results get a good electronic boost controller and for your education go to the begining of the Jaycar thread and read as much as you can!

Have a look on the internet. I just had some flow tested and while looking around I found prices vary from $25 to $50 per injector for clening and flow testing. (or you could just buy some new 550s)!

It would appear so:http://www.google.co.nz/#hl=en&source=...1aa81ab65bd61af and the cam belts appear to be all the same: 25, neo, 26

Yes Readily available in NZ Your link points to 2 Au stockists.

Some stuff i dug out of the DIY thread (parts list): S2 wheel studs #43222-70T00 OK Series 2 part numbers are: Water Pump 21010-AA526 Timing Belt 13028-5L327 Tensioner 13070-5L300 Idler 13074-58S00 Nissan rear wheel bearing ass c/w bracket 43210-AA100 Possible cheaper alternative: New part number for rear wheel bearings to suit s2 auto . CBC Bearings carry these . Kit NJ246. To suit, 200sx 7/94-2003 Skyline 6/91-3/93 2.0L Skyline 6/91-3/93 2.6L 4 stud only Skyline 8/93 on 2.5L Skyline 8/93 on 2.6L 4 stud only Best part is the price $154.00 incl gst. The genuine nissan price was $323.00.

Quite a few members towing race cars on car trailers ( around 2 tonnes). I have towed a fair bit of weight when auto ( auto is more convenient for towing - esp reversing).

If I were buying one today would prefer S2 just because the ecu is able to take Nistune chip. However with a manual it doesn't really matter If I were in Aus I would have a look at MS180's Autech - its every bit the same as factory - started off with a C34 shell and put all the Autech bits from a genuine Autech.

Can't help you with the parts as i'm in NZ but you need 12 -14L to do the auto so best bet is to look for a 20L drum of quality synthetic atf and you can use it for the Atessa and power steering as well.

There's a guy in Auckland put a stock VH41 in a Stagea (sorry no pics). He bought a bonnet scoop because he thought it would be needed for clearance but it wasn't. Tight fit everywhere else though. Reckons he has heaps more torque but RB30 looks easier road to me.

Not sure what you're saying about the cams but Nistune can alter the VVT points. Stock turbo can make 1 bar easily but is not safe to run at that level. maybe get another boost guage to check or get a Jaycar iebc to run a steady 12 psi. I can't emphasise enough the difference in power levels attainable by a good tuner with the right gear.

The reason is piston speed (longer stroke). If you are prepared to spend megabucks you can get an RB30 to rev to 10,000 but that sort of negates the reason for getting an RB30 in the first place - cheap power.

Yes get an upgrade fuel pump. Only reason to get an adjustable fpr is to push more fuel through your injectors than normal. For not much more money you can get a set of 480cc (or 550) injectors - a better idea in my view. Apart from a better turbo a quality professional tune is the key to max power.

Chinese made GReddy copy.

When my car left the road at about 100k and hit a culvert both front airbags deployed and i have no doubt they saved me from serious injury. I got out with just a scratch on my elbow ( car w/o) . there was a previous thread on Stagea safety and the 5 star rating appears well deserved (and the 1800kg mass is a plus in a head-on).

If the engine is in good nick and properly tuned 1 bar (15 -16 psi) should be ok. Get the nistune but stock fpr is fine. If you still have stock fuel pump consider upgrading that.

I am planning to do this for mine as well. I have seen suggestions that it should be near the throttle body or near the turbo but when the bov opens pressure drop is the same everywhere so really it makes no difference where you put it so on the hot side is neatest.

Stock S1 awd auto I was doing 2600 rev/min at 110km/hr with the standard 4.1 diff. R32 and R33 GTR diffs are about the same but R34GTR is 3.545 which would translate to a restful 2250 rpm. Zero boost or vacuum would be the norm at cruising speed regardless of plenum type or gearing. I am sticking with awd with the rb30 but have converted to manual (R33GTR box) already (luckily the GTR transfer case is a little bit stronger than the Stagea one).

Well on the S1 the auto headlights function is on the same switch as the main beams:1.OFF 2.auto 3.side 4main nb apparently this is an option on some models so some people may not have it.

Stagea is 4.1 and R32, R33 Gtr are pretty similar. I am planning to change to R34 GTR diffs which are 3.545 in order to lower the revs at highway cruising speeds. My R33 GTR gearbox appears to have slightly lowered the gearing and I want to make it a bit taller. I figure that the RB30 will provide enough low down torque to get off the line OK. I should have more power than a stock R34GTR which are barely lighter than a Stagea. Micah what do you mean by improved driveability? Do you mean for dragging? I guess you will be operating in the 0- 9000 range whereas I will be limiting mine to 7000.

My headlight switch (C34 S1) has a position for automatic operation driven by the sensor. If you look hard at yours it probably does too.

Can make 300kw (400hp) from an RB25 no problem so RB26 not needed for that power level!