KiwiRS4T

No you just have to reconnect the bleed line to the bov return pipe and play with the diameter of the restrictor until you get the desired boost - bigger diameter = more boost. If you have lost the restrictor you can just solder up that branch of the T and drill the hole progressively bigger till you get the desired result.

Stagea master cylinders are already a fairly decent size. If you increase the diameter you will also increase the force required to apply the brakes.

If everyone were to put at least their hometown on their profile it would be easier to help them.

Manual, many extras...good score!

Get a GTT highflowed by Gcg that should do it.

Some numbers from Google (unauthenticated): 3.133 for the Turbo AWD and the 3.0 RWD. 3.538 for the 2.5 NA AWD 4.363 for the 2.5 NA RWD (it's only a 4 speed as well). Also a suggestion that it is a R200 diff and therefore C34 and skyline diffs will fit. Has anyone gone under their car for a look?

Why wouldn't the dipstick read correctly? You'll just have a small amount of extra oil equal to the thickness of the adapter plate which will be a good thing.

Go to a Natrad agent - they should be able to find a generic core with the water and auto connections in the right places and which is thicker than stock. All the information on the auto trans cooler is in the DIY section above - you may be able to get a S2 cooler off someone who has gone manual or get one from supa cr*p.

I would like to know as well. I have the opposite problem. I have bought an R34 Link because it fits in the Stagea plug but the engine is a S2 Rb25DET. If the drive for the R34 CAS is different then I won't be able to use one but it sounds as though the stock Stagea (R33) one should work if rewired.

All Stageas are great for load lugging but though i have an S1 C34 myself I would say the M35 would suit your puposes better. Stock standard it is more modern (looking and designed) and probably a little more economical.

Nothing wrong with the R34 smic ( I have made over 200awkw with one on my RB25DET). Firstly just double checking that your boost guage reads in psi? Secondly can you borrow another to check its accuracy? Best way to increase boost for free is to bypass the solenoid altogether. Put the restrictor in the bleed line to give you 9 -10- psi or drill it out to increase boost.

I'm a fan for quietness but my exhaust was too restrictive so took out the middle muffler (don't have or need a cat in NZ) and now it goes well and is still not too loud. Get a hacksaw (or better still a pipe cutter) and cut out your middle muffler and fit a bit of pipe temporarily. If you like the result get it welded in if not you can weld the middle muffler back in. A loud exhaust is a good way to annoy the neighbours and attract the attention of the police.

BCPR6ES gapped down to .8 if your coilpacks are dodgy. I understand platinums don't like being gapped and coppers are cheaper. I like to pull my plugs out once a year anyway so don't mind replacing them.

The jaycar boost controller works very well. It needs to be set up properly so study the instructions carefully. There is a comprehensive thread here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja...tro-t61207.html Connections are best made at the ecu (although you can connect under the bonnet if you wish). You will need a pinout diagram for your vehicle and then connect to: 1. A power source 2. An earth 3. You need to T into the line (i.e. do not cut the line but simply join to it) to an injector (any one will do although people generally choose no 1) 4. Goes to the boost solenoid - if you already have a boost solenoid you need to cut the wire and replace the signal from the ecu with the signal from the jaycar Iebc - if you don't have a solenoid (e.g. R32 RB20) you will have to get one. If you haven't got time to read the above thread (although it's well worth a read) send me an email and I will attach some detailed instructions. [email protected]

Like what? Flywheels disintegrating at high revs???

Here's some: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-303002204.htm or http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-302515188.htm or http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-302378523.htm actually you can look for yourself - they range from $20 set to at least $180 a set.

Rear sway bar is Whiteline BNR11XX24mm (24mm solid not hollow like stocker) or equivalent. Or you could give your bar to a springmaker for a pattern and ask him to make one in 24mm solid bar. Get some adjustable castor rods and give it more castor for straight line stability at high speed. GTT or GTR brakes a good upgrade. Sydney tuner Yavuz at Unigroup Engineering Read the Stagea section - hundreds of pages of good info

You need 480+ injectors so those Siemens should be fine if you can make them fit. You will need Z32 afm and upgrade fuel pump if you haven't already. Newcastle's fame as a tuner free zone has spread to NZ so a trip to Sydney is indicated. With 250 - 280 awkw car will be fast. Mine was pretty zippy with 245awkw but going the RB30 (plus bits as in my sig)route now. It is my daily driver and track car all in one (not recommended but i can't afford 2 cars). If you haven't done anything to your suspension a massive rear sway bar will transform the whale like characteristics (plus a set of Bilsteins when you can).

May be possible to use R34 ecu if you are going to replace coils etc and you can get a whole loom and fit it while your engine is out... and Nistune that. Anyone done that?

Since you ask, yes it is a bad idea. Even with just 245 awkw my Stagea handled so much better on a twisty hill climb in the rain than the 2wd V8s around (as in behind) me. But if you want to hang the tail out and burn rubber by all means rip out the awd (but why didn't you buy a 2wd version or a Commodore?).

Why do you want to change the cams?

Here are some results from a Wellington workshop: A basic example of somthing we have tested at work. RB30DET, usual standard mods, GT3582R. with a .63 on 14psi it made 300kw. with a .82 it made 330kw, though boost came on 500rpm later. On 18psi the .63 made 350kw, where as the .82 made 375kw (could have made more but the power was more then enough for a street car) The owner with the .82 exhuast housing, is looking to down size as the car isn't as responcive as he would like 4000rpm full boost.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-301897746.htm Not mine but may be of interest to someone...

Tunable chip for your stock ecu (S2 neo engine only). http://www.nistune.com/

The manual tells me to match up to the timing cover marks and also mentions that the cam shaft dowl pins are 14 deg from horizontal. Is that at TDC? Thanks in advance. Chris Yes TDC - have a look at this thread in case it helps: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...m-B-t73824.html