KiwiRS4T

There's a Trust SMIC for sale in the skyline part section. The guy reckons he made 300kw with it (which i think is pushing it a bit) but it would be a good upgrade for anyone wanting to make up to 240 or may 270kw at a stretch. I used to have one and it was great. They are a bit fiddly to fit as the brackets don't line up but the hoses do and still a lot easier than fitting a fmic.

No idea what's causing it but doing the easy things first I would 1. (if you haven't already) replace all the fluid with something like Motul RBF600 - worth doing anyway and it may push out some foreign material in the system. 2. Go talk to a brake specialist and see if they come up with a likely cause. 3. Swap out the mastercylinder 4. Swap out the abs unit ( I have a spare unit but maybe someone closer has one). Good luck!

They should fit your Stagea. I would buy them for mine for $100 incl postage.

So are you going to get a fmic as well Hugh (or do you have one already)? I got my cooling pro stealth fmic before I thought I would be getting an RB30 so later in the year I will be getting a foward facing plenum as well as changing the fmic ($$$$).

I could be interested but would want the speedo to read to 280 or 300 or 320 km/hr. I have a converter to convert the speedo signal to make such a dial read correctly. They do seem quite expensive and the postage also looks rather steep. Otherwise i am looking to get some 320km/hr speedo dials printed. Does anyone know if S1 and S2 are the same?

Auto trans fluid need to be a little less than engine temp- say between 80 deg C and 100C. You could consider some sort of radiator blind like trucks have so that you can cover part or all of the radiator core.

Get the controller. You can find the optimum on/off positions on the dyno. As per one of SK's posts i read years ago: do one run with it on and one run with it off - the charts will show you where to set the changeover points.

Almost any nissan pump or at least any skyline pump should get you home if you can get a second hand one cheap. If you can wait you can get one from here: http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/store/walbr...mp/prod_80.html which is a new intank Walbro with a nissan fitting kit for NZ$165 which should work out to about the same in aussie dollars with postage. Of course if you can get one where you are it will be worth paying a bit more just to keep you on the road.

At the very least you should consider flushing it out with a mixture of kero and meths and per SK's instructions: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...age-t69501.html

They're not that fast from stock but the potential is there. Yep get a big (new) fuel pump but to fix the afrs you don't need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator but a Nistune chip so that you can tune it. Next a 3in exhaust and a good boost controller and then turn up the boost!

Just use a quality (synthetic) atf for the atttesa and the power steering. Its possible you need to become accustomed to driving slowly without slipping the clutch (i.e. in or out) or its possible there's a fault - maybe find a local member to try it for you. Congratulations on getting a 260 - you have a head start on us mere RS4T owners!

I can't think of a good reason for getting a thermostat that opens earlier then spec. It is not going to stop overheating but on the other hand will result in operating temperatures that are less than optimal. There is no need to guess about the thermostat. You can take it out and suspend it in a jar of water at about 50deg (it should be closed) and add boiling water from a kettle down the side of the container a bit at a time while watching the thermometer. It should start to open just before the temp stamped on it and be fully open there or just after. If it does that there is nothing wrong with it. A crook one is usually stuck open or less often fails to open when it should. In that case you need another one of the same value. Take your car to a radiator shop and they should tell you what the options are for free. They may not be able to tell you for sure why it is overheating but they can tell you if the header tank is cracked, how much it will cost to remove the top and bottom tanks and clean out the core, how much a replacement core would be and if Natrad list a thicker replacement. They could (for a charge) put a device on the radiator which will pressurize the system and see if it is losing presuure either from an observable leak (frost plugs, hoses, joints, heater element) or from the head gsaket or cracked head (not particularly likely - but you can look for oil in the water or water in the oil) Then you can make an informed decsion.

You're crazy! Are you towing a guy on a ski???

Strangely your symptoms sound like oiled up plugs but that is such a PITA to check!

You can use the falcon one - theres a thread on it in the DIY section.

When you turn the key on can you hear it priming ok? Still think its worth pulling a hose off the fuel rail and measuring the flow when you turn the key i.e time the flow and measure the resulting petrol.

Well done! Should be a lot of fun. Starting to worry now when I fling my Stagea around the track - would be great to have a track car and maybe do some hill climbs and club events but no money ATM. Keep us posted (in the Stagea forum) about your progress!Very jealous of your and Duncan's Christmas presents. Happy New Year to all. .

Yes, if you do a search you should find a thread with a comparison of various aftermarket options such as Trust, Nismo and ARC. Another possibility is to use the space for a water to air intercooler but i don't think anyone here has done it on a Stagea as yet. The simplest upgrade (see the DIY sticky) is the S2 or GTT smic into the S1.

While you're at it Dave have you wired your pump for full battery voltage (there's a couple of how to threads in the skyline section)? Joe at the workshop says Walbros don't seem to last as long run at less than full voltage and of course they don't deliver the same flow either.

I don't have an emanage but I have an RB32 ecu piggybacked onto my stock ecu and since it was fitted i have had the strange situation where sometimes the car won't start until I pull the plug off the ecu temp sensor so give that a try next time. If you follow the radiator hose down you will find two sensors - the single wire is for the temp guage and the double wire goes to the ecu. My tuner can't explain it but it only happened after the piggy back was installed. I have replaced the sensor but that made no difference. I know it sounds strange but give it a try - at least its dead simple to do. [My ecu talk display at these times shows an abnormal temp such as 0 or 164deg. Apparently if you unplug the temp sensor the stock ecu has a default setting that enables the car to run. I usually put the plug back on when the car has started.]

Sorry to hear about your massive accident. I hope you have a full and speedy recovery. Like everyone says don't rush into a decision about your Stagea. I think it could be made into a car that is suitable for you without sacrificing its character. Softer springs with quality dampers, keep the anti roll bars, slightly higher profile tyres and a good seat will all help. Don't forget the 5 star crash rating of the stagea ...I wrote one off on the open road and the airbags, pre-tensioning seatbelts etc allowed me to walk away with no more than a scratch. There is no need to reduce the power though. Acceleration can be rapid without being (literally) neck snapping. With a smooth driving style you can still appreciate the power. The one major I would see though would be that an automatic would suit you better. The other option of course would be to sell it to a member or friend of the family that would appreciate it - after all you will never get back all the money you have spent on it. Anyway no need to rush into anything and again all the best for your full recovery! regards Bob

Could be a blockage somewhere. Have you replaced your fuel filter (in the engine bay)? You could test the flow by pulling the hose off the rail and measuring what comes out when you turn the key (need a stop watch or just the second hand on your watch and a container of known capacity to measure fluid e.g. the Walbro is rated at 255l/hr or 4.25L/min so 15sec should del just over a litre (1.06 l) or 12 sec 0.85 L or you can test the pump out of the car if you want to pull it out. Just stick the pickup in a container of petrol attach a 12v supply and measure the flow for a minute or 30 seconds or should fill a 2L milk container in just under 30 seconds. Since you know where the fuel pump is you can see why some Stageas wont go if parked on a steeply cambered road with not much left in the tank. I will be protecting my new engine with a surge tank in the spare wheel well using my existing Walbro as a lift pump and an external Bosch to supply the engine from the surge tank.

There's a series 1 RB260 been on Trade me for weeks buy now at $17500 but can't even get a bid for $15000 and its a good straight car. They seem to go for a bit more in Aus but still you are probably better of dropping your price when you consider all of your time and labour and the hassle of selling the parts.

Transfer case is same atf as gearbox and steering. Get a 20L drum as gearbox will take about 14L - you need to pump it out via the cooler pipes to get it all.

Most people would say don't break up a perfectly good car but for you its purely a financial decision and you have to do whatever works out best for you so I won't try to advise you. I am amazed at your fortitude after having with great effort shifted all the bits from one car to another you are able to contemplate pulling it all apart again! [However if you do decide to sell the parts please PM me with the rear diff ratio and a price for the diff and axles] ...Bob