KiwiRS4T

As above. New ones best. I paid someone megabucks to pull my dash out and put it back although there is a thread somewhere that suggests you don't have to but in any case it is not a job you want to do twice. I think my new core (generic core from Natrad) was about $70.

So what's your "track hack"??

For run of the mill servicing it is good to do it yourself - you learn about your car and can monitor its health! For example just changing the plugs is a time consuming job but really quite straightforward and there are even tutorials on it (in the skyline section). Changing brake pads and rotors is easy and oil and filter changes are simple if messy jobs. Save your money for the hard jobs and for buying that 80mm exhaust and bigger turbo!

Please let me know what it costs you. My car started "flaring" so i was thinking about getting it beefed up when 3rd and 4th disappeared. I started making some enquiries about getting a shift kit and otherwise replacing bits to enable it to handle 270kw and I was looking at $2500 plus with no guarantee that it would handle that power plus being thrashed on track days so i have bought an R33 GTR box and being too old and infirm to do it myself am getting it installed. I expect it will work out cheaper than doing the auto (box was $700 but will post up total incl all parts and labour when its done) but would be interested to know what yours costs.

If you measure the length with a piece of string and/or a tape measure and take the pulley (or whole compressor) to an engineering supply shop they should be able to match the profile to the pulley and give you a belt of the appropriate length for less than the cost of the Nissan part.

Using different springs is a low cost way of improving the look with a lower stance but it will have minimal effect on the handling. If this is taken into account a slightly more expensive option is to use Bilsteins (recond to save money) to lower the car on the standard springs while significantly improving handling.

I have them (in Auckland) Pm or email me your tel no or email. Did you get a hand controller with [email protected]

I left the road at only 90 to 100 km/hr and hit a culvert. Car (S1 Stagea) was written off - lh strut tower pushed back, roof buckled etc. I got out with a scratched elbow - very glad of my airbags thank you.

I note you didn't say if your mate's was a GTT (sorry - i see it is in the heading - yep give it a try). (BTW Josh I can send you the S1 Stagea pinout if you want a look at it).

I am sure there will be some differences but I can't see it would do any harm to plug it in and try, carefully at first.

Don't know about neos but a while back i got an adjustable ex cam gear and set it to 4 deg retard as per SK's post. Months later I got someone to adjust it on the dyno for best midrange power and he came up with 3.5 deg retard ...so the 4deg should be good enough. But as Wolverine says if you want more power more boost and a good tune is the essential ingredient so after a bigger exhaust, adequate fuel supply and some means of tuning (nistune, emanage, aftermarket ecu) you need a bigger (or highflowed) turbo next.

I moved the number plate and cut out a bit of the plastic behind - will put up a photo tomorrow.

I wouldn't go to some one like UAS if they talk that kind of nonsense. Ref my post re the purpose of the heat exhanger in the radiator.

I'd put them on. Car will handle better. You just need to go by one of those displays at the side of the road that says how fast you are going and then you can calculate what your speedo should read to be doing 109km/hr on the motorway - there's no way you can pull max revs in top gear anyway so your real maximum speed will probably increase (or it would do if you didn't have the 180km/hr speed cut). You can get a kit from Jaycar to correct your speedo if you need.

I am installing the self same fmic at the moment. Stock injectors and afm will get you over 200awkw easily with the bigger turbo but you will soon need 550 injectors and Z32 afm. I am currently running 16-17 psi with my unopened S1. i believe the neo has stronger rods but 21psi sounds a bit brave!

First of all you need a new radiator, not another used one. Second you should be able to get one from a radiator repair shop. In New Zealand I can get a generic replacement (or a thicker one) with the hoses and trans pipes in all the right places. they just look in the Natrad catalogue. I haven't heard either way if this is possible in Australia but i should imagine it is. An aluminium or any other radiator without the heat exchanger for the auto trans is no good (unless you have a manual of course). The primary purpose of the heat exchanger is to raise the trans fluid to its optimum operating temperature as quickly as possible and the secondary function is to provide additional cooling. This primary function will not be acheived with more or bigger seperate trans coolers and since most trips are less than 10km it is important for the auto that the fluid goes through the radiator. Yes the stock radiator has a plastic top but it has probably lasted 10 or more years. [To give an example of the importance of the heat exchanger... her indoors was compaining that she would have to buy a new car because the auto trans in her Toyota Corona was stuffed and she didn't want to pay megabucks to overhaul it. It would n't change into top gear until about twenty minutes' driving i.e. normally not at all on most short trips. I fixed the problem with a twenty dollar thermostat - the old one was stuffed and opening at 55 deg so that the engine was taking forever to get up to proper operating temp and therefore so was the auto.]

Do a search. Some of the skyline guys have made some really good loking ones (and some have step by step instructions).

I have a complete set of C34 rear seat belts - don't know if they are the same as yours.

Here is the solenoid bypass (this will eliminate the ecu as a cause and also allow you to run 10 psi all the time): This is the 10 minute no cost boost to 0.5 bar rerouting of the vacuum hoses [thanks to SK]. Disconnect the two vacuum hoses from the solenoid. Then connect the boost feed (from the cross over pipe on the left of the picture) to the standard T piece. Connect one side of the T piece directly to the wastegate actuator (on the right of the picture). The remaining connection on the T piece goes back into the inlet via the BOV return pipe (on the standard fitting). Make sure to put the standard brass restrictor in that vacuum hose to bypass the desired amount back into the turbo inlet. The standard bypass hole of 1.25 mm bypasses enough air flow for 0.5 bar. (See photo) PS: If you want more boost you can drill out the bypass, 1.5 mm = more boost (around 0.7 bar) 1.75mm = a bit more (around 1.0 bar). [photo in post #40 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja....html&st=20] OK, this is the picture of the vacuum hoses. The boost pressure comes out of the intercooler return pipe (that's the big black one on the left) via the standard fitting. It travels down the vacuum hose to the standard T piece. The right hand side of the T piece goes to the wastegate actuator via another short piece of vacuum hose. It has 2 standard spring clamps on it. So that "some" of the boost pressure goes to the wastegate actuator. The left hand side of the T piece is connected to another (longer) piece of vacuum hose that goes to the standard fitting on the BOV return pipe. You can't see that fitting in the picture as it is hidden by the (big black) turbo to intercooler pipe. I squeezed the standard restrictor into that vacuum hose, it is tight fit, so be patient and use some lubricant (RP7 in my case). The restrictor limits the amount of boost pressure that is bled off, so that the "some" pressure that goes to the wastegate actuator is actually less than the boost pressure. This means you get more boost before the wastegate opens at its usual 4-5 psi. How much more depends on the size of the hole in the restrictor, the bigger the hole the more it bypasses and the higher the boost. The standard hole is ~1.25 mm and gave ~0.5 bar on my Stagea, which has standard everything else (no exhaust, no FMIC, std filter, etc). If you have mods, you may not get the same boost pressure, so you may have to adjust the size of the hole in the restrictor, it is brass so you can easily solder it up and redrill the hole smaller if necessary.

Timing belts are good for 120,000km so speedo has probably been wound back. Normally a low km can be backed up by service records so their absence would be an indication but not proof. However if the car still looks good and value for money no reason not to go ahead. Ask for all the bits for the headlights and tell them not to cut any wires and you should be able to reinstate them yourself.

Will take the rear lights if still available - PM sent

Check all the hoses to and from the solenoid/boost controller/actuator etc. is it possible that the wastegate is sticking open?

I hope you have a good job Dave! You are not having much luck at the moment. I would not recond unless you want a big hp engine down the track. To do it properly you are looking at $10K. I would pull the engine out and look for damage and measure it up for rings and bearings. If it is too far gone I would get another engine ($1500 - $2000) plus another $1k for cam belt (or pull the belt off your old engine if you have done it recently) ...and labour: total about $3k.

i seem to remember seeing that car up for sale a while back...could be wrong though...