KiwiRS4T

Big brakes - see also: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-237962894.htm

S1 Stagea has auto fluid going through the radiator and then through a tiny little bar cooler. If you are going to upgrade the radiator you should get one (they are available) with the connections for the auto trans fluid. Running two aftermarket trans coolers will not do the same job as the radiator initially helps bring the auto trans up to operating temperature more quickly and statistically the majority of trips are short ones. I replaced my radiator with a thicker one with the auto trans still running through it and got the largest (V8) Davies Craig (Supercheap) trans cooler as well.

Yes a good package. Just after I bought my GTT brakes I saw a near new big brake kit consisting of the adapters to move the calipers out, high tensile bolts and 324mm DBA4000 rotors (slotted and heat treated) for $400 (cost the guy $800 new). A good deal as now I don't have to skim and slot the front GTT rotors. Just need a spare weekend to fit them! In NZ they have to be (but can be) certed so when I have finished this current lot of mods I will get the lot certified.

How to tell the difference: Replace your brake fluid with quality new stuff and bleed the brakes. Find a quiet street and pick a lamp-post or other landmark. As near as possible hit the picks as hard as at as high a speed as you can safely (say 100). If you're keen measure the distance with a tape measure ...otherwise just make a mark on the kerb. When you have fitted your braided brake lines and brake stopper repeat the test. If you are one or two meters earlier in stopping that is what you have paid for. It may not seem much but it may save a life or your car. Other improvements such as bigger heat treated rotors etc are more geared towards sustained heavy use (although of course bigger brakes may improve your stopping distance a bit more) such as track work or if you tow a car and stand on the brakes a lot. Short of the above I think the stock brakes with better pads, new and better brake fluid and maybe braided lines and a MC stopper are adequate for street use.

Injectors sold. AFM now AU$80 posted.

Just in case you haven't already have a look in the Skyline parts for sale - nearly always one or two there around $300 - $400

I am looking for an ARC smic in good cond. I am interested in any of the three models - two for the Skyline and one WGNC34 Stagea - please advise which one you have (measurements please) and price to: [email protected] Thanks Bob

I have read elsewhere that you can have problems getting the air out of an ABS unit if fluid has drained out of it. Some are bled with nipples on the unit others need a scan tool to set it up. Anyone know if / how you can bleed the ABS unit?

As they're not the same frankly I don't know. Have you bought the second one? If it is not too expensive you could buy it any way and bung it in for a trial. If it doesn't work it shouldn't be too hard to sell as they seem to be in short supply. But you are not really in need of a backup - I have not seen any report of Nistune stuffing up and if you want to return the car to stock you can just put all the settings back to standard if you can't remove the nistune chip.

Are both cars S2? Have a look at the ecu number...I would think they would need to be the same to be sure.

That Stagea will not be suitable because 1. It is modified 2. it has a turbo 3. It has better than 125kw per tonne (just) I think the cops will go by the plate anyway (RB25DET) and it won't help you to remove the turbo (but you could check). If you did remove the turbo it wouldn't even go as well as a n/a neo Stagea and would probably use even more gas than they do already! PS if you can find one the late S1 n/a Stagea has the neo engine ( I had one) and they are almost as quick as a stock S1 turbo. They are about $3000 in NZ but I think they are quite rare in Aus. Go with QWK32's suggestion - get a cheap to buy, run and insure car and save up for a better car when you are qualified.

Nistune is not avilable for the R33 Some people use an R32 ecu and chip that but do a search on ecu, link, vipec, motec, power fc there are 100s (probably thousands) of posts already.

Here is a kit: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-237576821.htm

How do you know raising boost flows no more air? Doubt that the manifold is a problem at this level. Do you have 3in turbo back exhaust? If you have then a good tune should sort out some more power and your tuner should let you know when/if you need more fuel as in afm, injectors and pump (new fpr not necessary if you go for bigger injectors). Do you have any means of tuning it (aftermarket ecu, safc, sitc etc)? If not I guess you will eagerly waiting the results of the people trying to remap the standard ecu, which if it succeeds should be the most cost effective.

I was thinking the same - remote filter and oil cooler (about $300 but you can pay much more) and fit oil temp and pressure guage. Don't know where yet but be warned some people have fitted them where they get in the way for changing fuel filter or fitting MC stopper.

Well annually should be fine for plugs but sounds as though you may need coil. SAFC is fo adjusting air/fuel ratios .. will overcome rich/retard (what you were referring to as fuel/boost cut. Basic models are $100 -$200 there is a flash one with blue screen in the skyline parts for sale of this website Google Apexi SAFC for more info

Coil packs are expensive. have you checkd your plugs? Get a set of coppers gapped to 0.8mm (NGK BCPR7ES-8 are pre-gapped). If that doesn't fix it try to borrow some coils before you fork out for new ones (Yellow jackets seem to be as good as the splitfires but cheaper). As for the tuning get an Apexi SAFC (old cheap one will do) and if you can find one an SITC for the timing. BTW if you do a search on coil packs you'll find lots of ideas for insulating them with tape or epoxy.

$600 ??!! I am sure if you posted it to me in Auckland I could get them done and posted back to you for less than that! I sold my old front shaft for $60 - could possibly find you another if you get stuck. Hope "Final Drive" come through for you.

Don't know about that JJR unit but most of the cheap stainless exhaust bits such as manifolds are cr*p. As for the split dump fouling the body or whatever there's nothing you can't fix with a slight adjustment with a big enough hammer or lever or gas set.

As SK says almost any split dump will fit and if you can get the rest custom made for $600 that's a very good price. In NZ we don't need cats but if you need one you can either pay magabucks for a high performance one or just knock the guts out of a cheap one.

I think others have had to sleeve down the holes but your approach is better if you have the ability. (PS bolts are ususlly referred to by their shank size e.g. M10, M12 rather than by the size of the spanner needed to turn them although that's always useful to know!)

Correct do not drive the Atessa equipped car in 2wd mode. If you go back through this thread or perhaps another you will find a report of the damage caused. If you must do it for some reason you have to remove the front driveshaft.

Sorry - my computer is so slow I hit "enter" twice waiting for something to happen.

Dunno - that's where my switch for the windscreen de-icer is but that's not it. Maybe if you post your vin no up someone may be able to tell if its a factory option and not some aftermarket device.

Cops in NZ are on a ticket quota so pick on easy targets such as imports (especially anything with a big intercooler hanging out front even though they re not illegal) sports cars and motorbikes. However I always stop at stop signs even when it is clearly unnecessary in case there is a cop hiding in the vicinity ( as they do ). That's one of the reasons why I like my Stagea to look stock as ... in fact its one of the reasons I have a Stagea and not a Skyline.