KiwiRS4T

Yes you will have to tune the SAFC with a wideband afr meter preferably on a dyno... but presumably you have got new injectors as well so best set up on a dyno.

What mods do you have? 174 AWKW is a good bit better than stock - do you have a full turbo back 3in exhaust?

Well GTR91 buying tyres is the hard way to find out if you like them. I don't know where you live but maybe you can find a few members near you and try out their tyre of choice and see how you like them.

Obviously a few rums make it easier. Just looking at 48ngr's very tidy installation he either has a non standard front bar or has modified it by removing the number plate holder etc. It is probably somewhat misleading to say they "slot straight in", but each person probably has a different view of what is an easy install possibly depending on how used they are to adapting things to make them fit.

I have a set of RE001 on my car. They are excellent in the wet and dry. They are miles better than the old GridII etc. But even at 50psi they pack up on the track after a few laps. I have a set of Re55 semi slicks for the track but I would not use them on the road. i don't think there are any perfect road and track tyres. I have no doubt there are other good tyres. Use Google to find the tyre review sites where owners not only tell you how they find them but also how long they last and what they are like with a lot of km on them. There are a few such reviews in the skyline section of this site as well.

If you go to a proper suspension shop preferably with a Bilstein specialist they can valve them to give you the qualities you want. BTW you know that an unbelievably stiff ride will give you crap handing?

Yep got my Bilsteins from Auto align in Station Road Penrose. They sold me my Whiteline and Selby Swaybars as well.

How handy are you? Personally I would pull the box out and open it up to see what is wrong before the whole thing is expensively damaged. If you are going to try changing the oil do it NOW and look for teeth, particles of metal etc. If it still grinds after the oil change my advice would be to drive it no further til you 've had a look inside.

Top is just plastic. It can easily be replaced and the core cleaned out. Go to a radiator repair shop in the first instance and get some prices for a thicker radiator or if you want to pay more go to the usual speed equipment sources ( see the dealers in the skyline section) or buy from Japan through nengun or Import Monster etc.

Well gidday. I believe there is a growing Stagea club of some sorts in the UK - some really good cars there. If you're not already in touch one of them may see your post. Need bigger photo of your ride.

You're right - its a dogs breakfast. I would like to see a spreadsheet with the first column headed "Stagea model" e.g. S1 awd, S1 rwd, S1 260 RS, S2 awd, S2 rwd, S2 260Rs, M35 etc etc and then subsequent column headings such as Front rotors, DBA###(say three types: stock, heat treated, heat treated and slotted) Rear rotors..ditto. Front pads Bendix###, Endless### etc, Rearpads ditto, handbrake shoes ### and columns for alternative brakes e.g. R34GTT brakes, R32 GTR brakes, R33GTR brakes, R34 GTR brakes you get the picture. Then in each cell of the table : verified by 3 members, or 6 members or "will NOT fit verified by..." or "can be made to fit with inexpensive modifcations" !! I don't know if this would need a moderator to be able to make it work but it would have to be somewhere where it wouldn't get lost and people would have to be reminded to contribute their real world (yes I've done it and it works/doesn't work) experience (not "my cousin's mechanic says it will fit") . Does this sound too ambitious/too much work? I have read the sticky and various threads on brakes and there is some contradictory "information" and people pop up asking the same questions without necessarily getting a correct answer!!

Have a search on this site (or Google) for the Atessa and ABS error codes (and how to generate them). The fact that the abs light is staying on suggests a problem you have always had but has only now been highlighted by the extra power you have now.

You are missing the point. SK didn't change the throttle body but just measured the boost either side and found it to be the same thus indicating that the throttle body on a RB25DET is not a restriction.

PM sent

If you want to save money get a Nistune chip instead of the Power Fc. It should do you for quite a while and if you want to upgrade to a Vipec you should be able to sell your Nistune chipped ecu quite easily.

pm sent

Give me a ring on 838 8602 or 027 270 1489 Bob

Your light is telling you to get rid of the hicas. Actually I didn't know the RS4S had Hicas - I thought only the 260Rs had it. If you do have hicas maybe you could check to see if the motor is working ( either by jacking up the car and observing or checking it with a multimeter).

These come well recommended although I have no personal experience of them:http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/N1...rs-t273616.html

My vote for the high flow panel filter. What are you telling your parents why they need (or want) a pod?

Don't know about an external air temp sensor but to find the diagnostic plug pull out the coin tray to the right of the steering wheel and its to the left of the fuses.

Have you tried a heavier rear only sway bar?

" when i 1st got the car it would stall all the time, i cleaned the throttle body and the aac but found the standard dump valve had a massive air leak so i blocked it off (made a gasket to block it)" What do you mean by "block it"? Have you rendered the bov totally ineffective? If so try to find another stock bov and give that a try.

Best bet is to buy one already done.

Well the owner of my local RB workshop uses a top line Motul (which makes Mobil1 look cheap) in his 10sec R32 and suggested my change from Castrol Edge 5W30 to 10W 60. I do a few track days and give it heaps on the road so it usually gets up to full operating temps. I think any quality synthetic would be fine ... I would spend more time on tyre choices.